looks like my riser gaskets are leaking

phatsat67 wrote: Hey, check your PM, got a buddy with an Atom skier question.

The question has been answered. I have also answered it several times here on site.

Great idea Chris then he can pull the heads to get the broken manifold to head bolts too . I look at my 95's bolts and would like to change them but I don't need a big project this year

I pulled the manifolds off my '87 (Motors an '88) this fall, as far as I know they were original with about 600 hours, the manifolds rusted through and hydrolocked the motor. Three days in a row of applying home made 50/50 acetone/trans fluid and the manifold bolts spun out easy with a allen socket and a standard socket wrench. No heat, no impact. Same for the riser bolts. All of the bolts could have been re-used. You just never know until you try. I seem to have lucked out on everything else too. We put several hours on with the new manifolds and no apparent ill effects from the hydrolock.

I guess I could try to remove the manifold bolts, but if one of those breaks, I'm pretty screwed. I don't have any other heat source aside from the propane torch. I guess I could always get some MAP gas. Would that be hot enough?

Boat has over 1750 hours on her, snapping bolts is something I expect although the header bolts don't seem too bad, but definitely rusted.

This would do it

SNobsessed wrote: This would do it

Chris,
I bought one of them for my daughter for glass art. She never used it so I ended up with it. I used it one day for bending some 3/16" x 1 & 1/2" stainless and trust me, it is hotter but just like a single gas torch, it won't provide enough heat. Plus, I went through 3 tanks of oxygen to bend 4 pieces of the stainless 45 degrees. Oxygen goes real quick with any oxy acetylene rig.

I would make step 3a: acetone/atf soaking for a few days and then a bit of MAP gas heat with the channel lock or vise grip.
If that doesn't work and a real torch is necessary tow the boat there instead of trying to remove the manifolds from the heads.

81nautique wrote: Are we still stuck on the riser bolts? Seriously a lot of over thinking here, 50% of the time those bolts will snap but soak them, heat(map would be better but I've used propane), a rap on top with a steel hammer and vise grips they have always come out for me.    Your gonna kick yourself when they just turn right out. The suspense is killing me.

Gonna soak them once a day until Friday, Then I'll try my bolt extractor/vice grips and some elbow grease. If they don't pop out, then I guess I'll have to try something else.

I tried a manual impact driver before I broke them and that beating didn't loosen a damn thing. Lol.

I have the best wife.

She's been hearing me bitch about this issue for the past week or so. Each day I've been coming home from work, uncovering the boat, and applying PB Blaster to the broken bolts sticking out of the manifold.

We spoke on the phone yesterday as I was leaving the gym. She asked what I was going to do when I got home. I explained, the same thing I've been doing the past week, lubing up those bolts hoping they come out easily Friday. She giggles and say OK, see you in a few.

I pull in the driveway to see the cover is already off and the doghouse is up. I was like WTH?? Up pops my wife and she's wearing gloves and has a hammer in one hand and the PB Blaster in the other.

She had removed the cover that morning and had been wiring brushing around the broken bolts and soaking them in oil, and beating them with a hammer 3 times that day.

She said she felt like helping out. She even went so far as to Google ways to remove broken bolts.

Needless to say the help was greatly appreciated. I must say I have an amazing wife.

Tomorrow is the day I make another attempt to remove those bolts. Fingers crossed and I'll keep you guys posted on how it goes.

quinner wrote: Pics or it didn't happen!!

Lol. I explained that to wifey and she laughed at me and said tough S#!T. She wasn't all done up, so no pics. Certainly wasn't going to piss off my helper.

Thank God for awesome wives.

8122pbrainard wrote: JP, I see you're still stuck on that over rated Madison av. advertised PB blaster! Your first post you said you were going to use the 50/50 mix.

Yeah, I've heard good things about it and figured I'd give it a whirl. I'm sure the 50/50 mix is better, but at this point it is what it is.

It seemed to work well at loosening up the other 5 bolts. IF for some reason I wind up having to remove the entire manifold, I'll be sure to try the 50/50 mix out on the manifold bolts.

quinner wrote: Geez Pete, PB is not bad stuff, IIRC it is typically rated at the top of most of the over the counter type penetrant.

Chris,
Engineers typically go by the facts and don't pick specs out of the middle!

8122pbrainard wrote: Here's the list of torque requirements copied from the other thread: Penetrating oil ..... Average load None ...................... 516 pounds WD-40 ................... 238 pounds PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix.......53 pounds I don't even consider WD40 to be a penetrating oil so that puts PB at the bottom for me. Kroil is a on line order only so when I was taking my 1927 Flexifour apart and trying to break the rusted pistons loose, I did pick up a can of PB. A week went by with no luck and then the Kroil came in. The next day after using some of the Kroil, all four pistons were loose. I ended up using the PB as a honing lubricant!

I keep liquid wrench around since I saw those results because it's easy to buy at a parts store.

Man, this rig sounds like a headache. Time to wash your hands and upgrade. I'll take it off your hands.

And time for a Y pipe.