87 correct craft purchase help

Sorry a little new at this!!!!!

I am on the anti-siphon valve now. Does the whole shaft have to be pulled from the top of the tank? I have the valve piece still on the line which I think is the only piece I care about. How can I tell if it bad? I cant blow in it. I guess it's barbed so I may have to cut the hose to get it free. I can shake it and hear the bearing in it rattle an no gunk on visual inspection.

8122pbrainard wrote: Dave, If you can get the hose of the barb, it would be best so you can check the other side of the ball check for junk as well. However, from your description (can't blow in it, no gunk and it rattles) it sounds like it's good.

Gunk free. I used brake cleaner and blew it out. It was clean to begin with.

Thanks...

Hey congrats on the new boat. Listen to these guys, they'll get you fixed up. 87 brochure lists 33" as the draft, so 3ft and up and you should be good. Just a couple words of advice from a fellow first time inboard owner--practice reversing in open water before you start hitting stuff and always use the lockout button on the throttle, especially with kids on the boat. Git'er running right and enjoy it this summer.

SNobsessed wrote: The bucket method is best; a hose extension may be needed. Personally I have not used the bucket. I hose clamped the garden hose directly into the rwp input hose (at stainer or tranny cooler). But someone said that can rupture the RWP seal due to too much pressure, so user-beware. I now have a 'tee' with valve & garden hose adapter to hookup water (search for TRBenj's thread on this)- it is about $12 investment, well worth it.

I am going the route of fake lake and 5 gallon bucket combo. I picked up an inboard plunger from west marine. I plan to use a short hose to a 5 gallon bucket and then a garden hose to that bucket.

Can someone point me to TRBenj's thread about the T? I searched and searched with no luck.

I am going to attempt to set timing for the first time in my life. Just bought a light. Floats and carb pump setting next. I am then heading to CC dealer in the AM for fuel filter and tune-up kit. I know I can order all online but I am the instant gratification type. Grass doesn't grow under this butt. ;)

Steps to fix hesitation/stall out of hole so far:

1. Drain gas and replace with 93
2. Anti-siphon valve checking/cleaning (valve was already clean and as far as I can tell, working)
3. Timing and cardboard adjust today
4. Fuel filter / distributor tune up tomorrow

I have to be close to getting to the bottom of it.

Thanks all!

Dave,
Here's Tim's thread: running engine out of the water The key words can be a problem! I just put in "home depot" and it popped right up.

Please explain in more detail on how you plan on using both the fake-a-lake and the bucket at the same time.

I still don't understand what the fake-a-lake is doing? Ether use it as designed or toss it and use the bucket - RWP suction side to the bucket and the garden hose filling the bucket.

Dave,
Now I got what you were trying to do!! I feel my problem with understanding what you were trying to do was never thinking someone would actually try your method! No, even a semi positive displacement pump like a rubber impeller type has limits on it's suction lift capacity.

daddyo wrote: If you take it to the dealer, get ready to learn what "boat" really stands for, maybe once or twice over . No one but you knows your mechanical comfort level, but if you can isolate the problems you're having and post them here in a coherent manner, you'll usually get some good advice from the poobahs. either way, good luck.

I hear ya. I'm going for the peace of mind at this point. I know a good mechanic that can handle the carb and timing aspects. He's not marine, but it seems these inboards are like hot rods with rudders.

Mebirkle wrote: Thanks for the advice Snobsessed! I go see the boat in the AM. If I have any hesitation, I walk. I watched the video 3 times and am going to pull up the removable floor as the video suggests and do some knocking. Nobody bid on the boat so I'm good for a lower offer if need be, although, I think the price seems pretty darn good. My latest hesitation/concern is the lack of reverse capabilities a inboard provides. I suck at backing up to begin with. I hope I can get used to the bump in a hurry or my new boat experience is going to be super ugly. Anybody have some warm and fuzzies about switching from an outboard / deck boat to a ski boat and maneuverability?

maybe already been mentioned but a little tip on reverse, always go for the right side of a dock (whenever possible), then a bit of reverse brings the stern in nicely. Left side..reverse will draw you away. It's a different style; I'm sure I'm not alone in that having docked inboards for so long I actually have more trouble with outboards and i/o's, on the rare occasion I actually dock one.

74Wind wrote: Mebirkle wrote: Thanks for the advice Snobsessed! I go see the boat in the AM. If I have any hesitation, I walk. I watched the video 3 times and am going to pull up the removable floor as the video suggests and do some knocking. Nobody bid on the boat so I'm good for a lower offer if need be, although, I think the price seems pretty darn good. My latest hesitation/concern is the lack of reverse capabilities a inboard provides. I suck at backing up to begin with. I hope I can get used to the bump in a hurry or my new boat experience is going to be super ugly. Anybody have some warm and fuzzies about switching from an outboard / deck boat to a ski boat and maneuverability? maybe already been mentioned but a little tip on reverse, always go for the right side of a dock (whenever possible), then a bit of reverse brings the stern in nicely. Left side..reverse will draw you away. It's a different style; I'm sure I'm not alone in that having docked inboards for so long I actually have more trouble with outboards and i/o's, on the rare occasion I actually dock one.

Thanks 74wind! Haven't heard that yet. What direction should the wheel be cut? I assume to the right but you know what happens when you assume.

Mebirkle wrote: Looks like I am in for it with this boat. It needs some major glass work near the rudder/prop. Ther is an old repair that is cracking with some major chips coming out of it. I have 2 estimates for around 2k. The major crack goes to the rudder plate. There is brown drips coming out of the cracks so,I assume some wood involvement. Nothing is visible from the battery compartment. I will have pictures online tomorrow. Any advice would, of course, be appreciated. The good news is the previous owner felt pretty awful and chipped in some bucks towards the repair. I want it done right so I am trying to not cut any corners. One and done. I am going to solve the hesitation out of the hole with a newly rebuilt carb. $229 to my door. I think it's cheaper than gettin someone to look at it and I can swap myself.

Dont be afraid of the glass work, It is a job you can do yourself and with patience and posting some photos you can likely do it better. the hardest part is the gell work, but it is on the bottom where no one will ever see it, a great place to practice and learn. It is possible most of the work could be done on by grinding out the bad from the inside and rebuilding, saving the gel. The carb price sounds fair, what is the source?

try photobucket or hosting here. Cant see pics.

8122pbrainard wrote: Dave. Hopefully that carb you bought is a marine version. On the glass work, we have had several members take on the job in the same areas you would need to repair. They had no previous glass experience but with good picture posts and the guidence from the members here, got the job done with fantastic results.

Thanks! I did buy the marine version so I should be good there. I gave them the model number off of the carb that I have (which was one of their rebuilds so I know the models match).

Does $2,200 seem like an outrageous estimate? He's planning 3 days of labor at $75/hour and about $300 in materials. The previous owner is kicking in $500 which is really nice of him.

I just don't have the time an energy to take on a project like that. I'm tempted for sure, but know that I won't be in the lake for a long long time and may botch the job because I'm me.

yup that worked. Looks like you are doing the right thing by having it repaired.

Also pete is right on the fiberglass work. I never had touched the stuff but thanks to the guys on this site I was able to tackly my huge winter project myself.