87 correct craft purchase help

Maynot be a anti-siphon device. You could always try it. You could also take out the fuel sender and enter the tank that way. I good think will also be to jack the boat to the rear and to which ever side you place your suction device in so you can get all the old fuel out.

congrats on your new toy, don't forget to change the fuel filter if you suspect the gas to be bad and after 30 years of driving a I/O boat reverse in a inboard was different but not hard to master, good luck and have fun

Thanks grim.. there is a very large metal canister fuel filter mounted to the bow side in front of the motor. I was told by the PO that there is a water/fuel separator filter in place. Could this be it or is this just the normal filter for the boat? The casing looks as old as the boat and it's the only inline fuel filter in sight. There is a line out to the fuel pump and a shut off valve.

I guess it's time to start some new threads... :)

gun-driver wrote: It's simple to siphon the fuel out with just a hose/tubing. Get about a 6' section of 3/8" - 1/2" clear hose. Stick one end in the tank to the bottom.

The hose doesn't go all the way down in the filler tube to the bottom of the tank. It get stuck in there. Something is blocking. I'll have to access the tank another way.

Thanks!

I'll get back to jamming that hose down the spout. I guess I'll spin the filter off and change the element. Let's see what it looks like. I took a pic but not sure if I can post yet.

There should be a drain plug at the bottom of the filter cansiter shell. You can remove that & any water in there will dribble out. I would just do that for the short term.

Getting the canister off can be a bear, even in a bench vise.

You will have plenty of other items to debug right away. You can get a new filter from SKiDim or My Correct Parts for about $15.

SNobsessed wrote: There should be a drain plug at the bottom of the filter cansiter shell. You can remove that & any water in there will dribble out. I would just do that for the short term. Getting the canister off can be a bear, even in a bench vise. You will have plenty of other items to debug right away. You can get a new filter from SKiDim or My Correct Parts for about $15.

Good call SNobsessed! I'm going to just drain it for now. I have about 10 gallons drained out of the house that connects to the filter. I attached a cheap walmart variety hand pump to it. My forearms are getting quite the workout. I hope that tank wasn't full. I'll hit the filter next. Tomorrow I get a depth finder on it.

Can someone give me a ballpark of depth of water I can go to / draft? It looks like it'll site barely in 10 feet of water without losing a prop (ok, a little exaggeration). 4 feet???

Thanks all!

Remember it is not just clearance but also what your cooling system can suck up from the bottom. You don"t want to idle a beached boat. Most Here would say you don't want to beach a boat anyway. Do as I say not as I do.

8122pbrainard wrote: Mebirkle wrote: Can someone give me a ballpark of depth of water I can go to / draft? It looks like it'll site barely in 10 feet of water without losing a prop (ok, a little exaggeration). 4 feet??? Thanks all! 2.5' if you're on plain and moving along at a decent speed. 3.5' would be safe for just a SNW speed. Getting up on plain with the aft dragging, then I'd say 4.5'

Petes right on, i have kissed the bottom with the prop in about 2.5 feet so thats the bare minimum

I must sound like such a dork.. LOL

gun-driver wrote: Jllogan wrote: gun-driver wrote: You can also get the filters at a autoparts store.(not one like Autozone) Wix makes one for it. I use the wix 51515 Thats the oil filter #

The Wix part number for the Fram fuel/water separator filter used in the mid 80's through early 90's is 33436.

Bot has an issue getting out of the hole. It wants to stall as soon as I'm into the throttle a little. The carb is a year or two old. Seems like a fuel issue to me. I will try adjusting the floats tomorrow ala YouTube Holley video float adjust procedure. I will also try to get the fuel filter out and replace it. I can pound the throttle from neutral and get the RPMs up and get it moving. Nothing is good at 2000 RPMs. I am not a carb wrencher. We will see.

Can someone tell me hoe to run it off a garden hose? I was going to disconnect the screen on the intake side in the water line and run a hose from there. Sound about right???

Thanks all. I have another post about this in general but I am not getting much action.

Thanks Snosessed. Is there a pic of the RWP? I know there is a strainer and standard water pump on the block. I guess there is another pump I need to worry about. ;)

I too, think its an easy fix whatever it is. I have never dealt with points before. If I pull the cap, what am I looking for to show that are toast? I would be happy to just tune the whole motor just in case as parts are generally inexpensive (yep, I will eat those words soon enough)

Big T, you just bypass altogether the anti siphon gave? Interesting.

Big t wrote: That is what I use on all the boats from 1920 to current and the cars too the trick is to use a 5/16 Id line with a 7/16 od to pass the anti syphon valve

Tony,
Hint! Use the quote feature when answering so everyone knows what post you are responding too.