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Hmmm, so did you figure out if there was a blockage at the hull fitting? Or is it just that the Fake a Lake wasn't doing it's job?

The pulley alignment thing has come up before... It should be in line, but others have said that it's sometimes not in line to start with.

Any chance your temp gauge or sending unit is bad? Do you have a infrared thermometer to double check?

just a thought...

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watrski wrote: Unless you let your RWP suck water out of a bucket you are just going to continue chasing your tail.

Agreed.

If you have the 1.23 transmission, then you have a LH rotation motor. If you have a 1:1 transmission, then you have a RH rotation motor (and in which case, your RWP would be installed upside down).

Look at the tag on the transmission, it will tell you the ratio. Or give us an overall picture of the engine- the mounting angle is different between the 2 set ups. Or, give us the serial number off the tag on your intake manifold- it has all that information built in.

Unless you let your RWP suck water out of a bucket you are just going to continue chasing your tail.

It looks like the screw on the body of the pump is facing in, which is correct IF he has the (more common) 1.23 trans in his '94.

Any chance you have the old impeller around to try? I think I see the key in the shaft of the pump, so the impeller is probably spinning. Ive heard of impellers becoming separated from the hub though. Is this an OEM sherwood impeller?

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I was talking about the bottom of the transmission cooler. They get clogged sometimes

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If you're getting plenty of water out the exhaust, perhaps you have a blockage or you have a circulation pump issue. Is the circulation pump turning freely? Excessive shaft play? If the circulation pump is not working, the RWP would likely supply enough pressure to push some water through the engine, but not much, perhaps this explains the 160 with no tstat and 200 with a tstat.

Has the engine been rebuilt recently or had the heads off? Head gaskets can be and are often installed backwards on the SBF engine and will result in running very hot.

Im not assuming anything... but if he's supplying very low water pressure to the RWP, then Id still say thats a water flow problem, not an air leak problem.

Still, it shouldnt take a ton of water to keep the engine cool at idle, in neutral.

watrski wrote: 1. You have an air leak.

If these symptoms were on the lake, then I would agree. But I run on the trailer with a gross air leak (I do not shut off the intake grate path on my tee'd water input) and never run above 160.

The fact that he runs 160 with no stat is indicative of a water flow problem. I think the the RWP test is a good place to start.