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Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25730
Printed Date: May-19-2024 at 6:35pm
Topic: ---
Posted By: waker319
Subject: ---
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 12:00am
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Replies:
Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 12:37am
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Did you have a heat problem before the maintenance? Impeller right direction? ------------- ...those who have fallen and those who will. |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 12:54am
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Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 1:22am
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Where all the impeller blades accounted for? Any missing? Where the blades installed in the same direction it which they came out? The real experts will likely chime in @ 4-5 a.m EST. They can likely elaborate more and give you some expert advice. ------------- ...those who have fallen and those who will. |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 2:00am
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Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 2:09am
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there may be blades of past failed impellers impeding flow... ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 2:18am
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Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 7:22am
Possibly in the motor. What kind of water was previous owner boating in? Check all connections as well. Tighten all with a nut driver, not a screw driver. Again, hang tight help is on the way. ------------- ...those who have fallen and those who will. |
waker319 wrote:Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 12:43pm
| I haven't done a thermostat on one of these yet but can it be installed upside down/backwards. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 1:36pm
| How about your water strainer, gasket in place? |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 2:05pm
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 2:13pm
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Im trying to understand your symptoms better. Can you please correct the following statements? 1. It runs 160 on the hose without a thermostat. 2. It runs 200 on the hose with both the new and old thermostat. If thats the case, then clearly the problem is not thermostat related. The engine should be struggling to break 100 degrees without a stat. Have you had the boat on the lake to see how it runs? Have you tried revving the engine to see if the temps come down? With no load on the trailer, it should be artificially easy for the engine to maintain temperature... so something is wrong. Without knowing how it acts on the water though, its a little tough to pinpoint. It would probably have to be a pretty major air leak combined with insufficient water flow for that to be the problem. I would lean towards a blockage in the system or a RWP needing a rebuild. If you have already inspected for blockages and come up empty, I would start by testing the RWP. Dump the fake a lake and make the pump pull from a bucket instead of forcing water up to it. If it struggles to pump water, youve found your culprit. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 2:23pm
Wrong. The RWP is always pumping a given GPM of water. The engine takes what it needs to keep the engive warm via the opening position of the T stat. The given GPM is always constant through the manifolds and out the tail end. It's just a little warmer if the T stat is open sending water through the engine. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: watrski
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 2:53pm
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1. You have an air leak. 2. You might have put the pump on backwards and the hose is pushing enough water to keep it around 195. Put a hose from the RWP into a bucket full of water (with the hose filling it) and see what happens. If it puts out bubbles you have the pump backwards. If it cools it you have a leak between the RWP and the inlet. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 3:06pm
If these symptoms were on the lake, then I would agree. But I run on the trailer with a gross air leak (I do not shut off the intake grate path on my tee'd water input) and never run above 160. The fact that he runs 160 with no stat is indicative of a water flow problem. I think the the RWP test is a good place to start. ------------- |
Posted By: watrski
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 3:08pm
TB- You might be correct, but you are assuming that he has the water turned up full pressure. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 3:15pm
Im not assuming anything... but if he's supplying very low water pressure to the RWP, then Id still say thats a water flow problem, not an air leak problem.  Still, it shouldnt take a ton of water to keep the engine cool at idle, in neutral. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 4:36pm
Not much at all. A gal. of gas contains 114,000 BTU's. At idle, it takes quite a long time to burn 1 gal. Removing 1 BTU, one pound of water will only increase in temp 1 degree and we all know the cooling water gets hotter than a delta T of one degree. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 1989SN2001
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 4:41pm
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If you're getting plenty of water out the exhaust, perhaps you have a blockage or you have a circulation pump issue. Is the circulation pump turning freely? Excessive shaft play? If the circulation pump is not working, the RWP would likely supply enough pressure to push some water through the engine, but not much, perhaps this explains the 160 with no tstat and 200 with a tstat. Has the engine been rebuilt recently or had the heads off? Head gaskets can be and are often installed backwards on the SBF engine and will result in running very hot. |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 4:41pm
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Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 4:46pm
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Posted By: dwcar
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 4:48pm
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[QUOTE=waker319] (( the first picture is something i saw after the strainer (in order as in coming in from hull intake) it looks like a filter but theres hoses coming out to engine block and tranny... i checked for blockage but it was clear... )) That is your transmission cooler. You did check the bottom for blockage? ------------- 83Ski |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 4:51pm
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Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 4:52pm
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And you're really sure you didn't somehow rotate the whole pump body around by accident. AKA, which way is your impeller set screw facing? Check out these directions, they make it pretty easy: http://aquaskier.com/articles/impeller_replacement.htm" rel="nofollow - http://aquaskier.com/articles/impeller_replacement.htm |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 4:54pm
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 4:54pm
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It looks like you have the 1.23 transmission, is that correct? ------------- |
Posted By: dwcar
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 4:54pm
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I was talking about the bottom of the transmission cooler. They get clogged sometimes ------------- 83Ski |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 4:57pm
Just for laughs, see if you can confirm that your impeller pulley is definitely turning the shaft. I thought I read something on her about a key coming out of the keyway, and then the shaft wouldn't turn the impeller. |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 4:58pm
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Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 5:01pm
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 5:02pm
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It looks like the screw on the body of the pump is facing in, which is correct IF he has the (more common) 1.23 trans in his '94. Any chance you have the old impeller around to try? I think I see the key in the shaft of the pump, so the impeller is probably spinning. Ive heard of impellers becoming separated from the hub though. Is this an OEM sherwood impeller? ------------- |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 5:04pm
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Posted By: watrski
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 5:05pm
| Unless you let your RWP suck water out of a bucket you are just going to continue chasing your tail. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 5:07pm
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I tried doing a search for "the bucket test" but couldn't find a thread. I feel getting it off the hose and and doing the test may tell alot. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 5:08pm
Agreed. If you have the 1.23 transmission, then you have a LH rotation motor. If you have a 1:1 transmission, then you have a RH rotation motor (and in which case, your RWP would be installed upside down). Look at the tag on the transmission, it will tell you the ratio. Or give us an overall picture of the engine- the mounting angle is different between the 2 set ups. Or, give us the serial number off the tag on your intake manifold- it has all that information built in. ------------- |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 5:08pm
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Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 5:11pm
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Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 5:11pm
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Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 5:18pm
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 5:20pm
Use the hose at the through hull fitting. Then, the strainer and cooler will be included in the test. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: vondy
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 5:21pm
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Any chance your temp gauge or sending unit is bad? Do you have a infrared thermometer to double check? just a thought... ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4645&sort=&pagenum=1 - 69 Mustang HM |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 6:14pm
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Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 6:21pm
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Hmmm, so did you figure out if there was a blockage at the hull fitting? Or is it just that the Fake a Lake wasn't doing it's job? The pulley alignment thing has come up before... It should be in line, but others have said that it's sometimes not in line to start with. |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 6:25pm
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 6:25pm
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Leo, Congratulations on the fix but you never really stated what the problem was. I can't really imagine it was the Fake-a-lake? Post a picture of what you are using. Yes, that RWP is way out of alignment. Somethings up with the bracket. Look into it otherwise you'll be chewing up plenty of belts. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 6:26pm
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Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 6:37pm
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 6:37pm
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Leo, In order to save the pump, you may need to install a thread insert (helicoil) in it. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 6:40pm
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Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 6:52pm
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 7:25pm
A thread insert actually has male and female threads. The female threads match your existing bolt. The stripped hole is drilled and tapped to match the male threads of the thread insert. It's screwed in and you have new threads for your old bolt. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 7:30pm
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Leo, I really can't figure out what the problem was with your Fake-a-lake. By chance did you have it so tight to the hull that it blocked off the water supply? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 8:57pm
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 9:09pm
Some like the RTV but I HATE it!  what do the gasket surfaces look like? Did you do any flat filing on them? Is the housing flat and not warped?There are some cases where the RTV must be used but this isn't one of them. I actually like the old Permatex #2 which is the non hardening. I'm just "old school" but, i have NEVER had a problem with it - yes with RTV!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 9:19pm
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When I did my thermostat I used some Permatex Hytack to keep it in place. Is yours just a slow drip or pouring out? I had a slow drip when I first did mine. A couple rounds of snugging up the bolts slowed it down. Then, it kind of worked itself out. I don't know if the gasket had to plump up or a couple hot/cold cycles cured it or what. |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: April-26-2012 at 9:30pm
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I like permatex av form-a-seal, but that may be the same as #2? And you did prep the mating surfaces? Check to see if your pump case is stripped or cracked. I had a cracked one...those brass/bronze cases can't take much crankin'. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-27-2012 at 1:08am
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Posted By: watrski
Date Posted: April-27-2012 at 1:44am
| kink in garden hose. |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: April-27-2012 at 2:11am
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my money is on air leak at thermo housing or at one or more hose connections/clamps Also my boat shop owning friend has advised me against that type of fake a lake because it can fall away from the hull from you jumping in and out of the boat. I use the type that has a little metal hook that grabs the intake grill and then you push it up and it it "locks" in place tight to hull and won't fall away from boat moving around on trailer/springs. ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: April-27-2012 at 2:14am
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you still need to get that pulley aligned-whatever it takes ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-27-2012 at 2:29am
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Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-27-2012 at 2:31am
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Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-27-2012 at 1:12pm
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Pete, Tim, I was thinking about the pulley alignment problem. I realize that if the set screw is rotated 180 degrees, you'll wind up not pumping the correct way. And, this set screw is in the impeller half of the pump body, correct? What would happen if the pulley half of the body was accidentally rotated 180 degrees. It would still pump in the correct direction, right? However, it's the pulley half of the body that mounts to the brackets correct? And, there is only two bolts, right? Are these two mounting bolts on the same horizontal plain or different? I'm thinking if the pulley half were inadvertently rotated, the pump would still pump the right direction, but the mounting would be all buggered if the two bolts are on different horizontal planes. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-27-2012 at 1:29pm
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Brian, If the sheave/bearing housing was rotated 180, you would still have one mounting hole with stripped threads. Ether repair it with with an insert or if there is enough depth to the housing boss, tap it deeper for a longer bolt. Hopefully as mentioned, the housing isn't cracked. BTW, since the one hole is stripped, I'd be looking real close at the other one too. If you do work to the bad one, it probably would not hurt to do the same to the other one! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-27-2012 at 1:32pm
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Good point Pete. I wasn't sure if the stripped out hole (and the inability to tighten) was the only thing keeping it misaligned. Leo, if you could pull it tight, do you think it would line up? |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-28-2012 at 2:45am
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Posted By: GlassSeeker
Date Posted: April-28-2012 at 8:26am
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I'd say none came from the factory misaligned. Only takes 5 minutes or so to reach operating temp, it should go to 140+...but not 200. You're in California/Monterey Bay why are you winterizing your boat at all? just askin. I'm in Sacramento never ever winterized a boat. Use it year round. Hard freeze for 24 hours is super rare here unless you are in the Sierra. Sounds like that shutting down is another problem. Where was the temp then? Somethin's still up. ------------- This is the life |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-28-2012 at 10:24am
Whether it did or did not come from the factory with a alignment problem is not an issue. You need to get the RWP and it's sheave aligned. You should take a straight edge long enough to go from the outside edge of the drive sheave to the outside edge of the driven sheave. When aligned, all four faces of the two sheave should be touching the straight edge. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: waker319
Date Posted: April-28-2012 at 3:04pm
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Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-28-2012 at 3:29pm
Or it might just be normal operation. Do you have a carb on this boat? If so, the choke opening should roughly correlate with the motor getting up to 160 (and 160 is actually about where a 143 degree stat should put you) but they're not connected. So, the choke could be opening a bit before it's fully warm, and the motor will lean out. Or, it could be staying closed a little too long and it's choking itself out. So, it could be that the engine is not all the way warm, and/or the choke is not all the way open. If it runs fine once it's warmed up, it should be fine. They should be allowed to warm up a bit before running hard anyway. |
Posted By: FUN-9C1
Date Posted: April-28-2012 at 10:42pm
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Just a thought- our gauges have a reputation for being off due to poor grounding, and the temp would read higher the poorer the ground. Maybe it's REALLY 140° and it's reading high? I hate fake-a-lakes as much as pete hates RTV. It takes one or two minutes more to do it right- a hose into a bucket and the RWP sucking from the bucket. That way you KNOW that the water coming out of the exhaust is there beccause your system is pumping it, not from your hose's water pressure, and you know your motor's getting enough water when you rev it up, AND you know the fake-a-lake isn't going to fall over. Take the extra one or two minutes and use a bucket. ------------- '86 2001 '50 Century Imperial Sportsman |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-28-2012 at 10:55pm
Rob, This really isn't the case. The ground for a fuel, oil pressure and temp gauge is via the sender to the block (or the tank). The more the resistance, the lower the gauge reads. This is why the basic test for a gauge is to remove the sender wire and ground it. There is then no resistance and the gauge pegs to max - or the opposite would be a low gauge reading with a poor ground. The ground wire to the back of the gauge is for the light. It has nothing to so with the gauge itself. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: FUN-9C1
Date Posted: April-29-2012 at 12:38am
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I stand corrected. I haven't quite tackled that ground issue on mine yet, and when I turn the lights or blower on, my temp jumps up higher. I made a bad assumption that since ther cure for that is to fix the ground, that there's less "ground" going to the temp when other stuff is on. ------------- '86 2001 '50 Century Imperial Sportsman |