1977 Ski Nautique Rebuild

Pete, I did not notice anything unusual. That doesn't mean it wasn't there tough. I'll check on that speedi-sleeve. Any idea on where to find one and are they rotation specific?

Here is a video of it starting... Engine Starting

Finally some nice weather!!!!!

I have finished the floor in the bow. I have installed the exhaust cavities and rough cut the port outboard floor panel. So work is getting done.

Enjoy!!

TX Foilhead wrote: the sleeve might not be rotation specific, but the front seal is. My Napa has had 2 shots at it so far and they finally gave up. Looks like I'm waiting on parts again unless I get lucky and find one in Austin tomorrow.

Is your Napa trying to match the sleeve by the engine/seal location or the actual measured diameter of the seal surface? The last time I went to the Speedi-sleeve site, all the sizes were listed by diameters. I ended up ordering it on line by size.

I don't have time right now to look, but I do think there is a "speedi sleeve" type repair that is listed for the actual balancer you have so you don't have to measure and look up the speedi chart as to what size a particular one fits

Here it is--

Gary S wrote: I don't have time right now to look, but I do think there is a "speedi sleeve" type repair that is listed for the actual balancer you have so you don't have to measure and look up the speedi chart as to what size a particular one fits Here it is--

Thanks Gary, I will check this out.

Thanks Tim for the link. Yes I will tab the floor to the hull sides with a couple layers of cloth tape and then with the 1708 on top. The floor will joined to the stringer from where the exhaust cavities start all the way to the back. Hard to tie it in where I cut the acces for the engine mounts. That was the initial plan, but as you know a wise man advised me to make an engine cradle for this boat!

Tim, very similar plan here. I plan on using 2" and 4" tape everywhere the floor meets the hull and 4" on all the seems. The floor will get glassed to the stringers and that one spot you circled with 8" tape wrapping down the stringer. Then the entire floor will get 1708 wrapping up the hull side 6" or so, depending on how it works out. Then the plan is to cover that with a layer of cloth (not sure about that yet), so damn much resin!!!!

The bottoms of the each floor piece has two layers of cloth, including the 3/4 subfloor where the seats are. There is a layer 1708 in between the subfloor and top floor there. So where the seats are from the bottom up: 2 layers of cloth, 3/4 bluewater 26, layer of 1708, 2 layers of cloth, 1/2 bluewater 20, layer of 1708 and then maybe a top layer of cloth. Sufficient?

I think the engine cradle is going to work well. If you need any additional pictures as it moves forward just let me know.

I'm hoping I can get the engine test fitted soon, waiting some help my engine lift wont go that high, so I can measure that shaft. Skidim said it should be a 50" shaft, but I want to make sure and suck that prop up close like you recommend. It appears from the pictures I took when I got the boat that there is a couple of inches between the strut and prop!!

Thanks again for all your help.

Tim I thought you added more support under seat on the BFN. Oh well at least I know it stout. The 3/4 goes from the battery box all the way aft past the pylon. You can see it in a couple pictures I posted earlier before I got the sides done.

HatterBee wrote: Tim I thought you added more support under seat on the BFN. Oh well at least I know it stout. The 3/4 goes from the battery box all the way aft past the pylon. You can see it in a couple pictures I posted earlier before I got the sides done.

We did the same as Joe, in that we used 3/4" B26 under the front seat area (pylon to battery box), and added a bunch of extra biax on the underside right where the seat frames screw down. The rest of the floor is just 1/2" B20. We did add an extra 1/2" B26 in the area of the pylon, which spans between the stringers all the way forward to the rearmost bulkhead (front end of the bilge)... but that was for pylon support rather than the floor.

Prior to setting down our 3/4" piece:



Finished:

It's always nice to see a great stringer job!

Allen, I assume that's a new damper? If not, make sure you install one.

I don't see the wobble on my phone but if you are something, it could be real. Eric suggested snugging up the damper after the tranny was bolted to the engine. This can be done using a few knuckles going through the starter hole or by drilling a small hole on the bell housing (install a grommet afterwards so it's not unsightly).

Ive never heard a blown tranny make noise... Damper yes, but a failed tranny is usually still quiet in my experience.

Started to tab and glass the floor. Was able to get the engine test fitted the other day. Here are some pictures.

Well I just got finished all I can do before I leave for vacation. Got the floor glassed in and the removal panel cut. I also have glassed the underside of the removal panel. Now I'll be gone for a week and a half and then back to the grind!

Well we are getting somewhere. I got the bilge faired out a bit and have put the first 2 of 3 three coats of bilge paint down. 1 more coat this weekend if the weather holds out, then I will start to reassemble her!!!!   

I have a question for the masses though. I have ordered my carpet and hope to start installing soon. However, is there anyone out there that can explain to me how the carpet trim works. I am about to replace the carpet in the '77 I'm rebuilding and I see a lot of talk about the trim. One of the PO's had replaced my carpet and didn't use the trim so I have no reference on how it goes back in. Pictures and/or explanations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Allen











Here is a picture of a JR CCfan member in St Marteen....

Maybe you could try a speedi-sleave to fix the front CS leak.