Holley 4160, or edelbrock carb?

Yeah, the carb was rebuilt not that long ago by someone else that presumably knew what he was doing as he had a whole basement of holley parts and was very familiar with holleys on cars, but also had worked on a few on boats, specifically a couple inboard ski boats.. The metering block was cleaned in carb cleaner, along with the main body of the carb.

I will clean out and blow out the carb and metering block again, maybe stuff got clogged in it since then.

The original pump was 4psi, as far as the symptom, it didn't run beyond idle with the original pump making only 4 psi. I didn't have a gauge on the pump until recently. And the gap was way off on the accelerator pump from the rebuild date until the other day when I re set it properly. Considering that I can turn down the psi to 4.5 psi with my regulator, I don't think that putting the old original pump on would stop the raw gas out the venturi issue.

Tom, The carb was rebuilt by someone you think knows about Holleys but they didn't even set the Accel pump correctly. If I were you at this point I would pull that MF'R off and start with a fresh rebuild or throw it in the GD trash can and by a new one. Your wasting your time trying to adjust something that is obviously junk. Rebuild it again, I think the needle and seat is junk or there's debris keeping it from closing, end of story, what the heck else could it be.

i concur, this carb is a turd.
When the idle circuit in the metering block is boogared up, the first thing someone does is up the idle to make the engine run. The idle mix screws go mostly ineffective. the idle is upped till the engine runs off the transition slots instead if the idle mix ports. I've observed dripping from the main boosters on carbs in this condition.

There are many different metering blocks, dont know what the part specific number is for the marine unit. Skidim seems to sell it at a reasonable price.

You think like my Fiance. :)

Hmm, so pour fuel down the inlet tube of the carb after it's been disconnected from the pump, but connected to a hose with the funnel to see if it weeps when the fuel line is filled to the funnel?

The needle valve seals when a vacuum is put to the inlet tube, but that is the opposite direction of the gas flow when the pump is pumping gas.

Tom have you checked to see if your float is full of gas? Maybe it's leaking and no matter where you set it it won't close the needle.    As for doing the funnel test thing that would only confirm the obvious. I still say a new carb is your best approach at this point.

79nautique wrote: 81nautique wrote: Tom have you checked to see if your float is full of gas? Maybe it's leaking and no matter where you set it it won't close the needle.    As for doing the funnel test thing that would only confirm the obvious. I still say a new carb is your best approach at this point. or replace the float

Thank you Captain Obvious.. but I still say he's dealing with a carb rebuilt by someone unqualified to open a pack of cigarettes let alone his carb. My first suggestion was for him to rebuild it again so he atleast would know where he stands with the unit, at that time he would have found the float full of gas and replaced it if it was indeed leaking. My second suggestion, throw the darn thing in the trash and put a new unit on it and get the boat out of the darn driveway, it's becoming an eyesore! Most guys have done stringer jobs in the length of time this has taken to sort out, pretty soon we'll be arguing over to fill or not fill with antifreeze.

Not to dig at tom but i don't think he has the experience or skillset yet to get this carb in proper order. The three-four of us may. but that doesn't help him.

A new carb and he would at least understand how the right carb is supposed to perform.

Then he can dink around and hone his skills trying to make that old turd work like the new one on his own time without leaving the girl in a lawchair in the hot driveway all summer wanting to go boating but instead having to stare at hairy crack bent over the engine every weekend.

Gottaski is right and I know sometimes I'm a little quick with my replies, I mean no disrespect to Tom(horkn) abilities. I already looked through my stash of carb parts and If I had something better than what he is working with right now it would already be on it's way to him.

I do have a front bowl with a good float and I can throw a new needle and seat in it if you want, I would need to clean it up so might take me a day or so to get to it but it's yours if you want to try it.

I have seen first hand that the inside of a bowl can peel, although rare and part of a recall it happened to me. The little flakes of metal kept clogging up my needle and seat and drove me crazy figuring out how the stuff was getting inside. Took me a while to figure out the debris was coming from the inside and clogging up the entire carb trying to get out. I doubt thats your problem but check again for any debris inside that bowl when you open it up again.

More great reading guys:)

Alan, If you want to lend me that bowl, I would be more than happy to attempt a last ditch effort and see if that will do the trick.

I have not attempted to flat the float. Don't the brass ones have more of an issue with sinking? It should float in water, correct?

If this last ditch effort does not work, I am buying a new carb. I redid the entire interior of my boat in less time than I have messed around on this carb.

I can't log in to CCF at work, with training and meet and greet for the next few weeks, I am busy and can occasionally check email at work. Crazy German company is very strict about any surfing, but as a senior buyer, i HAVE to peruse the internet for electrical goodies for our machines. My supervisor already told me that if I need my internet fully unlocked, that I need to call IT and they will fix it. Any sort of forums still may be locked even if the IT dept unlocks it.

My email is horkn at yahoo dot com if you want to get a hold of me Alan.

Every time I have checked the bowl, it has been free of debris.

I do have to say that this carb has made me wonder about my mechanical abilities from time to time. ;)

Yeah, gas is "lighter" than water, which is why gas floats on water, but the float should float on either water or gas. Or I could try floating the float in a cup of gas. AKA the stinky way. :)

the correct way is weighing the float BTW, just replace the damn thing all ready... you've chased your ass enough ... you question every damn thing that is said why the hell do you even post if you all ready have the damn answer.


Fuel leaking into the venturi's of the carb is cause by.

Bad needle and seat.

Float is set too high.

Fuel pressure is too high blowing the needle off of the seat.

There is trash/debrie in the seat preventing the needle from seating.

Or the float is saturated and not moving and allowing the needle to seal on the seat.


You've been chasing your ass listen for a change it's all right here in this post what can cause the problem you've all ready done most but never have you thouched or thought about the float being bad, it seems pretty obviuos to some what the problem is.

79nautique wrote: it seems pretty obviuos to some what the problem is.

It's the 3erd o 4th "obvious" reason for the carb problem so far...

Anyway, the suggestion is good, get a new float, needle and seat, and see how you go, Dont think that's too expensive to test.

if not, as other has wisely advised, get a new carb and mess with this one on your free time. Something odd was done to this one by the rebuilder.

Sounds good Alan.

I will let you know what I find this weekend.