Holley 4160, or edelbrock carb?

dont leave it till the end of summer and usually they rupture from a back fire not the other way around

Riley wrote:    It has a 312 with an automotive Edelbrock and we want to get a marine carb. .

Come on Bruce!! When are you going to go back original with the YH carbs??? You probably knew I was going to say something!! I know you have the intake manifold.

BTW, Steve (62wood) has plenty of spare YH's now!

Thanks for the kind words Larry.

I'm a big boy, I can more than hold my own.

While I may have a bit to learn about CC's especially the old ones (which I really don't care too much about other than if it looks nice) , I know more than some guys here are giving me credit for.

As far as the carb, I am going to try putting a new needle valve and seat on the exiting Holley carb.

If that does not do it, I will put a new carb on, and I am thinking Holley, mainly because that is what it has on it, and I want to make this as easy as possible.

Thanks Eric!

That info definitely helps me in my decision. Contrary to what some might think, I am good with turning wrenches, but why make more work when you don't need to?

Thanks for the BS Chris.

leave the power valve alone until end of summer another idiot talking foolish BS. [/QUOTE]

I hear ya Chris...

Plan on running the boat one more time and see if it still exists. If it does, off to Austin she goes.

I will start a new thread on "Power Valve". I just need to know where it is located. I can figure it out from there. Thats why I ENDURE this site.

peter1234 wrote: Chris i know i may seem like a foolish idiot but have you ever read through your posts? man you spell like an idiot

LMAO...

My boat will stall when the air screws on either side of the primary are tightened down. From all that I have read, that means that the power valve is good. If it still ran after tightening both of those screws down, then that means the PV needs replacement.

Now, is the PV that is in there on mine the proper one? Good question? I will find out.

I'll work on my carb tuning skills, and Chris, you work on your people skills.

Luch, I sure do want help. There is extra gas is dripping from the squirters on the primary, even at idle.

That makes it stumble.

Thanks,
Tom

First off.
-take the primary bowl off,
-turn it upside down, making the needle close on the seat,
-cover the balance tube passage with a finger
-Try to suck from the fuel inlet, then put your lip or tongue see if it sticks. This checks vacuum is generated and will tell you if the needle closes well.

If you also take the metering block off, you can try the same with the PV, sucking from the rounded face the PV should compress and stay compressed. If not it's ruptured.

Check float level, keeping in mind the float has a tiny lift after it seats because of fuel pressure. If you have any doubts, post a pic of it at "closed position".

Check those 3 things, and report back,

hhhhmmmm leaks gas, must be bad needle and seat, but hell I've all ready rebuilt it once, changed the fuel pump to, what gives, the float looks fine can't figure it out.....so simple yet so far out of reach to comprehend the problem and fix it.

Luchog wrote: First off. -take the primary bowl off, -turn it upside down, making the needle close on the seat, -cover the balance tube passage with a finger -Try to suck from the fuel inlet, then put your lip or tongue see if it sticks. This checks vacuum is generated and will tell you if the needle closes well. Yes, doing this resulted with my tongue stuck to the inlet tube. I guess that means the needle and seat are good If you also take the metering block off, you can try the same with the PV, sucking from the rounded face the PV should compress and stay compressed. If not it's ruptured. Doing this also appeared to prove that the PV is not ruptured. It has 6 and 5 on it, so that should mean it is a 6.5 PV then, right? Check float level, keeping in mind the float has a tiny lift after it seats because of fuel pressure. If you have any doubts, post a pic of it at "closed position". This appears to be nearly level. I don't think this is the culprit either. Here is a pic of it.... Check those 3 things, and report back,

The psi from the new marine fuel pump is 8-8.5 psi.

Pete, if I lower the float like this( as it sits when the bowl is on the carb) it will be raising the float.
Remember this is up side down.

If this looks to be needing to be lowered when the bowl is turned right side up, I can do that.

As far as my eyesight, it's already been fixed a long time ago and is 20/20.

Yeah, that did fix the fuel coming from the primary venturis.

It does idle nicely now, and when I rev it up it runs well too, but under steady throttle above like 1000 rpm or higher, it does still dump non atomized gas through the primary venturis, making it not run totally smooth.

Shouldn't the gas be a little better atomized at all times?