S.O.S

Luchog wrote: I'd take the exhaust manifold out and have some pressurised water through it from the water inlet, see if any water comes out of the 4th runner.

How would I go about pressurizing the exhaust manifold? Details that is. I understand the concept. Not sure how I would block passages off.

Hey guys.. been a while since I posted. This thread reminded me of the nightmare I had when I was restoring my 66 baracuda ss. I will say first that I know nothing about the Holman Moody Engine. However, I had the exact same problem with my poly 318!! My crankcase was filling up with oil extremely quickly (This was a reman 318 long block) I removed the intake and heads thinking I had blown a head gasket. I installed new head gaskets and intake gaskets. This still did not correct the problem As a last resort, I removed the timing cover, remembering I had installed a new gasket there when reassembling the engine. As it turned out, the timing cover gasket had a spot about an inch long where the gasket had failed. Since the water flows through the timing cover, it was leaking through the area where the gasket had failed, and quickly filling up my crankcase. I don't know how the cooling system on the Holman Moody is configured, but if it is similar, this could be the case.

If I may add.. The engine ran fine for some time before this occured. It happened suddenly (reason I thought it could have been head gasket etc.)

Again, the HM Engine is probably entirely different.. but hey its the thought that counts right??

http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=11780&KW=finally+some+pics&title=span-classhighlightfinally-span-span-classhighlightsome-span-span-classhighlightpics-span

Working on getting my boat posted in the diaries.. been meaning to do that for a long time.. The link above should direct you to some pictures I posted some time ago. Also currently have a '96 sport nautique

Thanks! I know the feeling.. Having something wrong and not knowing how to fix it is very disturbing to me... especially when your crankcase is filling up with oil. Best of luck. Wish I could help more..

79nautique wrote: But regardless try and change the oil just to get the water out of it if you have time until you can spend some time working on the exhaust manifolds.

Are you saying I should run it for a short period of time with fresh oil and a filter just to coat everything with clean oil?

correction: "any part" meaning the part of the gasket that surrounds the water jacket.

Luchog wrote: IMO the exhaust manifolds are not the culprit here, but an intake leak, cracked head or block are. We are possibly after 2 different issues. You need more water in the crank to mess that much oil than what a leaky exhaust manifold can drip in at stops, unless that cylinder has no piston rings left. The leaky exhaust could be the cause he had a start up problem before because of water inside the cylinder, but that water could, or could have not gotten through past the rings.

Luciano,
I'm really leaning this way too.

If you are gonna get your hands on the engine soon it's pointless, now if you plan to leave it like that resting per months, yeah, go for it.

if it makes your mind rest easier do it, have you taken the exhaust out yet?

go take that exhaust out, we can worry about the oil later

I feel I'm more anxious than you are, perhaps because it wont be me paying the bills this time!!!

Well from my stand point, don't see if the intake gasket water ports failed how that would allow water on top of the valve, A cracked head yes, but the exhaust manifold and it's aluminum walls seem like better betting odds to me.

regarding the oil I was just refering to draining and putting new back in and not starting or turning it over. I wouldn't turn over the engine unless you drain the block first to prevent more water getting into the crank case.

vondy wrote: [QUOTE=Luchog]I What y'all got some bets going on who's right?

you better hope non of us is right!!!

Unless you have SEVERE valve play on the guides, it's not very alike you have water going up the valve.

we are looking at two different problems here. 1 is water on the cylinder, 2 is water in the oil. It might, or might not come from the same source.

Post the results on the exhaust leakdown test, if it turns out good, try the other method as well just to be sure.

79nautique wrote: you need to till the other end down, the riser's water outlet inside of the elbow has to be the highest point, right now your not really test anything because all of the water is in the elbow area and no water can get up around the runners to see if they are cracked.

I'll do that when I get home 79. Anyone ever blocked the exit passage and used compressed air in the inlet to test? Not sure how you would seal it, kind of an odd shape.

Here's my "optimistic theory", and I know it's just my theory and probably does not mean a thing but it keeps me less depressed over my dead boat.

Lets say either I really screwed up the install of the intake manifold or the overheating warped the aluminum or something... could that water be pushing out into the intake chamber putting water in the cylinder and moving down into the engine mixing with the oil?

Like this.


Again, just talking, not saying it's even possible. I got to think about something all day at work don't I? If the exhaust manifold checks out I'll pull the intake off next and find out I guess.