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1975 Skiier Stringer Replacement

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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2010 at 9:46pm
Originally posted by srbranum srbranum wrote:

I just wanted to stop and take a minute to personally thank EVERYONE who is taking their personal and valuable time to help me with this project. You guys are very unselfish and generous to offer your expertise to someone you have never met but I just want you to know I sincerely appreciate it and am taking all advice as the Gospel!
scott


Scott,
Thanks much I'm sure from all of us. I really feel the CCfan group is unlike any other you will find. It's more family than anything. When you get that boat done or even if you don't, you really should try to make it to one of the reunions and meet some of the group in person plus have a great time. (bring the whole family)

Regarding the straight vertical grain Doug fir, I hate to contradict others but considering you're getting it from Sweetwater even the lesser always looked fantastic. Greg (BuffalowBFN) was the first to discover them and I don't believe he went with the straight vertical grain. Greg, tell me if I'm wrong. The vertical grain means it slightly stronger because all the grain runs pretty much in the same direction. It's hand selected from the outside of the log sort of like quarter sawn is from the center. If you look at Keegans pictures of his stringers, his Doug fir isn't the vertical grain and it still looks great.


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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2010 at 9:06pm
Andy,

Thanks for the help. I will study on everything you said as well as others and do the best I can. Got to eat dinner and go to work.


Scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Okie Boarder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2010 at 8:47pm
Scott,

Here are your pictures. It looks like you already figured out the resizing. They all appear to be 640 x 480. I put a folder in my photobucket account. If you have trouble figuring out how to post them, just send them to me and I'll put them in the folder and post them for you.









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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2010 at 8:46pm
Originally posted by bkhallpass bkhallpass wrote:

You must get a fedex discount. Any way to have one of your compadres pick up the wood on a run?

The straight grain fir tends to be a straighter piece of wood as well. It will also have very few knots. You could go with less expensive lumber on the secondaries, but if it were mine, and in fact I'm in the middle of a stringer job myself, I would buy the good stuff for your primary stringer. Measure 3 or 4 times before you cut. BKH
I think I will. The savings I would realize buying the cheaper grade will be gone once I spend most of one day and $75 in gas plus lunch in addition to time away from the project going to get it vs. buying it from the only local dealer who would help me for $7/ft four miles from my house.

You guys amaze me how much smarter you are than me! Keep it coming.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2010 at 8:37pm
You must get a fedex discount. Any way to have one of your compadres pick up the wood on a run?

The straight grain fir tends to be a straighter piece of wood as well. It will also have very few knots. You could go with less expensive lumber on the secondaries, but if it were mine, and in fact I'm in the middle of a stringer job myself, I would buy the good stuff for your primary stringer. Measure 3 or 4 times before you cut. BKH
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2010 at 8:28pm
Originally posted by WakeSlayer WakeSlayer wrote:

Scott,

You are resurrecting a boat that has some decent value, especially to you. You are going to spend between $800-1500 on epoxy, glass, misc parts, then more on carpet, etc.   I don't see saving $100 on lesser grade wood to be a worthwhile place to skimp. Done right, you are never going to see it again and the boat will give you and your family hundreds if not thousands of hours of priceless family fun.

You are so correct..My wife just said she did not care what it cost, just do it right. I have had the boat since 1990 and even if I pull up to a new dealership on the water, everybody wants to look at it. I have people try and pull me over on the highway and offer to buy it so you are correct, it is worth doing right. It has 690 original hours on it which averages about 20 hours per summer. I have put about 12 hours/summer on it myself which is strictly from mid may to labor day.
I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2010 at 8:23pm
Originally posted by Keeganino Keeganino wrote:

I am in the middle of a stringer job and used a 4.5 inch angle grinder with a diamond wheel that I bought from harbor freight for $10. Like you said, score it through the glass right to the wood and with a little prying or whacks with a hammer the stringers come out easily. Try to get at least one of each out in a whole piece for a template.

Use Douglas Fir lumber and treat it all with CPES.

Pulling the engine is really easy. You have five wires to disconnect. Wiring harness, positive, negative, throttle, and shifter cables, and that sucker comes right out.

You will be here in no time
You speak the truth my son.........2 1/2 hours by myself. Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2010 at 8:21pm
Scott,

You are resurrecting a boat that has some decent value, especially to you. You are going to spend between $800-1500 on epoxy, glass, misc parts, then more on carpet, etc.   I don't see saving $100 on lesser grade wood to be a worthwhile place to skimp. Done right, you are never going to see it again and the boat will give you and your family hundreds if not thousands of hours of priceless family fun.

Mike N

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2010 at 8:09pm
keegan,

Thanks for the info for Sweetwater. I called them and they can get me whatever I want. I have a question for you and anyone else with an opinion:

John at Sweetwater says he can get me what he called a vertical grain or a mixed grain piece. The vertical grain is twice the price as the mixed grain but of course is the better quality. It is about $100/piece(I need 2ea.) or $200. The mixed grain of Doug Fir is $111 or two pieces.

It's about a three hour drive each way to pick it up and $75 in gas. I may have another option locally so that's not out of the question.

CAN I USE THE LOWER GRADE DOUG FIR ON THIS PROJECT?

Thanks,

scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2010 at 7:40pm
get some rest my friend!!!
we want you to finish this project the right way!!!
<a href="">1992 ski nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2010 at 7:23pm
To Pete and Everyone else who has commented on this topic:

I just wanted to stop and take a minute to personally thank EVERYONE who is taking their personal and valuable time to help me with this project. You guys are very unselfish and generous to offer your expertise to someone you have never met but I just want you to know I sincerely appreciate it and am taking all advice as the Gospel!

Second, I want everyone to know a little bit about my schedule because if I can't take action on something or throw out excuses, it's for a valid reason sometimes. I drive a big rig for Fedex monday-thursday between Huntsville and Memphis 400 miles per night leaving my house at 6:30 at night and returning at 8:30 in the morning, my wife is a CPA and that needs no explanation this time of year and I have two kids under 10 involved in everything. I have to get enough sleep or I could easily fall asleep at the wheel at night so on some days, I would'nt feel like going to the lottery board and pick up my check if I won.

Please keep sending any and all comments as they are sincerly appreciated and excuse my ingnorace when it comes to technology and doing things in a timely matter

scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2010 at 6:56pm
This is where you go for your lumber if you are having a hard time finding it in Huntsville. Lots of people on this site have purchased from there. Make a Sunday drive out of it.
Sweetwater Lumber

"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Okie Boarder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2010 at 6:39pm
Scott,

I sent you an email through here. email me some pictures, I'll resize them and send them back, as well as post them on here for you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2010 at 3:39pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


We've got to get you to take some time and read some other threads. Don't worry about sleeping!!   


yes all the info is here with lots of different set up. composite material instead of wood..
And some using no foam or alternate materials for flotation purposes..Like using pool noodles
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2010 at 3:33pm
Scott,

Measure you stringer again. Totally different boat, but mine was 153". I had to buy 8/4x8"x13', and had it planed to 1.5". You can add the gas tank support after the fact.
I would try and seek out doug fir, Pete can explain it better than I.
I paid $140 per stringer, planed and delivered. Probably high, but only one wholesaler had anything that would work for me.



Edit: Pete beat me to it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2010 at 3:32pm
Scott,
SPF aka: spruce, pine fir (not doug fir) is not the same. Not in the same strength class. I've mentioned this before but a good example as to the strength is to look at constuction framing charts. SPF isn't in the same span/lb per sq. foot catagory for roof or floor joists. Keep looking. What part of the country are you in? For the secondaries, the SPF is fine.

The raised area of the stringers aft for the tank can be added on. You don't need to get the 2x wide enough to make it out of 1 piece.

We've got to get you to take some time and read some other threads. Don't worry about sleeping!!   


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2010 at 3:25pm
#3 sevaral ways to go...you can go the way it came from factory,..lay all the stringers, and fill all the voids with foam, then level it the the striger heigth..put the ply in the front section and then cover all ply and foam with glass. You can also go with ply all over the floor using this method but instead of glassing over the foam you lay the ply and the galss it over.
Or you can set all the ply before foaming and the drill holes in the floor and inject the foam there and then cover all with glass.
If you go with the ply check striger height...as you don´t want to end up with a taller floor and then not beig able to alling the engine to the shaft...
Also with the ply before putting it over the stringers coat it with cpes and glass in the inner face...you dan´t wan´t your job to rot from the inside if some water makes it there eventually
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2010 at 3:10pm
Have another question everyone.

I have called a ton of places where I live asking for doug fir beams. Everyone says they will have to order it and it will cost a ton($150-$200 for two beams not counting the secondary stringers). More than one said spruce is just as good and if its not going to be seen, it should be fine. Can I substitute spruce for doug fir?

Question #2: Does anyone know what width of primary to buy? If I could send a picture, the beam underneath the gas tank rises above the heighth of the rest of the stringer running up towards the front of the boat. Looks like I would need to buy a 2"X10X12' with the majority of beam cut down to slightly under 7". I hope I am explainging this correctly.

Question 3:   I know I am putting plywood underneath the seats and behind the engine but the areas beside the engine and covering the foam filled void areas is in question. I was thinking about using real thin luan plywood and covering it with fiberglass and resin. I am guessing this area was sprayed with layer after layer of fiberglass from the factory which I obviously can't do now. Any suggestions?

Got to go to sleep now. Hope to hear from you guys on these questions.

I hope to get you some pictures with help offered by Okie boarder.

scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2010 at 2:56pm
My camera is an olympus 10mp but we use a nikon view picture program if that's what you are asking. I had a guy over at my house a minute ago and showed me a few things that may help. Do I need your email address to send you the pictures or is it somewhere on this website?

Thanks,

scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Okie Boarder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2010 at 1:27pm
Scott,

If you want, I can help you. You can email me the pictures and I'll set up a photobucket account for you t host them through and post them on here.

What program opens your photos to view them on your computer?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-08-2010 at 10:21pm
Thanks.

I may need to talk to somebody on the phone about how to work this website and what everything means or my project will be finished by the time I figure it out. I will try again in the morning when I am off work and see if I can get some pictures again. Sorry everyone, be patient with me.



scott
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-08-2010 at 9:20pm
Hit post options on the right corner of your post. You can Delete or modify from there.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-08-2010 at 9:18pm
Still too big. I will try some more. How can I delete these?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote srbranum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-08-2010 at 9:17pm
deleted?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FrankT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-08-2010 at 9:15pm
Are you thicker at the midpoint, under the engine? I think 1/8" is 125 mils, correct?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-08-2010 at 7:54pm
The tops of my primaries have one layer of 6 oz tape, and one layer of 17oz biax in the front and rear, that measures 3/32" from well behind the trans mounts to well fore of the motor mounts, I added a second layer of 17oz biax, that measures a tall 1/8" thick. This is from memory, but I believe this is correct.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-08-2010 at 7:42pm
I feel like i totally neglected my boat..mine only took 17 to rot away ..ha I think the factor that it actually sank helped the rot to accelerate its process....Next time it sinks (i hope not) i will put the cost of the rebuilt to the insurance claim....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FrankT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-08-2010 at 7:36pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by WakeSlayer WakeSlayer wrote:

I cannot figure out how you are going to get away with 3-4 gallons of epoxy.

Whoever thinks this project will only consume 3-4 gallons has a serious misunderstanding of the scope of the job that is involved. Thats assuming you do a proper layup, as documented by many on here. 8-10 gallons on a boat that size should be about right.

Of course, if you cut the number of courses for the stringers in half, dont coat everything in resin beforehand, and dont glass the floor in, you can probably do it with 3-4.


My general question about glassing the primary & secondary stringers is what is enough? 10 mils, 20 mils, 200 mils? By my math one gallon total mixed should give me over 20 mil thickness on the primary/secondaries.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-08-2010 at 7:14pm
Those against foam say no foam because it tends to be the source of absorbing water, adding excessive weight to the boat when wet, and causing rot.

My thoughts are:
1) Every stringer job I've seen has been far better than factory. Fully encapsulating the wood, using epoxy resin, etc. No one I've seen do a stringer job has used staples to hold anything together (as did the factory), and most try to minimize or elimate screws. Those that do have screw holes shoot some CPES to stop or at least mimize rot in those areas.

2) My 1982 SN was abused. Left out in the rain. Left with standing water in it, etc. etc. Even with questionable orginal contstruction, FOAM, and this abuse, the original stringers lasted for 24 years.

3) Assuming I do just a little bit better job than the factory, assuming I actually take care of the boat, and assuming I actually keep the boat for that long, I have to think my stringer repair job will last more than 30 years.

4) In thirty years, I'll be 76

5) I'm foaming as original.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-08-2010 at 6:27pm
WOW..this stringer thread is really flying!!! 2 pages in only 2 days and not a sigle picture yet!!!(of the boat in question)
Nice sequence Keegan´s ´73, cslaten? 74 and now this 75...
nice for sharing good advice!!!
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