’83 "2001" New Problems

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Yeah...I wouldn't worry too much about selling my tools. I should post a pic of my tool box that I will always carry with me in the boat. Plus I have an old '90 300ZX and a slightly newer Caddy Deville that I always have to work on (timing belt, A/C) etc. I've always liked working on engines and eventhough have had no formal training...the web is an invaluable resource.

Took her out today...she ran like a top. After we emptied about 1100lbs of water out I took her for a spin right before loading it up on the trailer. She ran up the 43mph turning about 4100rpm. No misses, nothing. When we were boarding, I could hammer on the throttle, and she jumped right out of the hole.

Thanks for all the help guys..now I can enjoy it and not worry about it running right. Plus, if it does start to run crappy, I have a much better know how on all the systems.

Now on to the cosmetics. Oven cleaning, all the stripes off and a full buff and polish. Then onto the floors, and carpet.

I must say, this thing throws a sick wake when loaded up. There were some SAN out today, and the wake was almost on par.

Come find me in the General Discussion section, as I will soon start a thread on the buffing progress.

Cheers,
Brandon

Hey billgatesceo, as far as I know they are still copper wires. I made my own to the exact length by purchasing a roll of wire, boots and crimp ends. I achieved a factory look since pre-made wires never seem to be exactly the same length as original. Anyway, now I will answer your question about direct 12v to the coil when starting. Your idea would work, but you would need a hefty diode in series with the output of the starter solenoid, or a single pole single throw normally open relay with the relay coil tied to the starter solenoid output and feeding your own supply of +12v to the contacts. The reason being is that everything is fine while cranking but when the key is in the "ON" position, the ballast resistor will try to backfeed to the starter and either cook the resistor or blow a fuse. You would get such a huge voltage drop in that line trying to run the starter that the engine will die when the key is released. Also for reference, never crank the engine with no spark plugs, wires. dist cap, rotor, etc. This will ruin the coil. Coils of that voltage extreme need a place for the juice to go. If it cant go anywhere, its likely to flash internally causing the coil to eventually fail. Coil manufacturers love this! Coils dont fail often on their own. Our 74 mustang 17 we have had since new has over 1000 hrs, and the coil is original and still strong. If your gonna turn the engine over pull the coil plug wire and run a clip lead from the coil high voltage output to ground. Hope this all helps out!!!!

A little trick to setting timing and dwell without any backfires. Backfires can cost $$$$, ruin the carb, and isnt good for the engine, its like dropping a M80 firecraker in the carb and lighting it. I remove the fuel line from the carb, cap it off, then run the engine out of gas. I then change the points and condenser and sometimes stip the whole distributor if it needs cleaning. Put it all back together, then crank the engine over and set the dwell. Then take the timing light and set the timing in the same manner. Then hook up the fuel line and she should start right up. Final tweaking can then be done but it gets you so dam close it isnt funny!!
Also about the direct 12v bypass for the coil when starting is correct. The wire usually says "AUX" which hooks to the AUX terminal on the alternator on PCM engines. Its a diode stack and when it fails (shorts out) you wont be able to shut the engine off with the key. If it fails (opens up) then your engine wont start until after the key is released while its still spinning (no spark during cranking).
Also be careful not to use automotive plug wires in boats with points. Most wires sold today for autos are for high energy ignition (HEI) and use carbon as a conductor. Older boat wires are not carbon, but solid copper center resistor wire. This is alot lower in resistance than carbon. They dont run solid copper (no resistance) because the no one within a 1/2 mile would be able to watch TV or listen to a radio.

I checked my timing today with a light. Idle was right at 10-11 BTDC, and at 3K it as 30-31 BTDC. I think the timing is good.

My best bet as to the culprit is the lousy plug wires. the new ones should be here Tuesday, so I'll let yall know. When I was checking to see if all the cylinders were firing, I noticed that #7 and #8 made the smallest difference in running as well as shocking the hell out of my hands through the insulation.

Peace

Anyone know the correct timing specifications for a "stock" engine (idle, high rpms), so that I have a basis to work with?

Great article Jim. Now all I need to do is figure out what cam duration I have (to determine optimum static timing) and what heads (comustion chamber) I have (to determine optimum maximum timing). The engine mods on my boat were done by a previous owner and I don't know what parts they used.

We took her out today, and for the most part she ran great. Started up everytime. Idled perfect. There is definately something still wrong with the top end of the rpm range.

It would only top out at about 35MPH, and 3200rpm. It I put it all the way down(throttle), you could hear it miss and bog slightly. Good think that wakeboarding is only about 2K rpm, so it worked great for us. Just had to remember not to punch it full throttle to pull up the boarder.

So my ideas of the problem:
1) mechanical advance not working correctly
2) still have old plug wires (skidim was backordered, but ordered some anyway, should be here on Tuesday). I was trying the ol' pull a plug and see if it runs rougher trick to make sure all the cylinders were firing. On number #7 and #8, it didn't seem to make as much of a difference, plus, when I pulled the wire off, it was continually shocking the hell outta my hand. I could have a couple of bad wires.

I guess I can check the advance with a timing light rev'd up to high rpm. Anyone know what the timing is supposed to be at higher rpm's. I'm pretty sure from the service manual that idle timing should be 6deg BTDC.

Thanks....Almost there

Jim_In_Houston wrote: Have fun and always remember the question my girlfriend asks everytime we go boating: "Did you put the plug in?"

Is that what kids are calling it these days?

I got the impeller replaced, and started it up. I checked the timing with the light, and it was right at 6 deg TDC. I let her run for about an hour. Seemed to idle good, and run good at 1800rpm for a while. It did seem like if I ran it up to 3K it seemed to miss slightly.

What adjustments do yall think I could make to make it run smoother top end? Carb mix?

Thanks

Woohoo!!!!!!! I got it running. I have to retract my statement about getting all the wires in the correct order. I must have had a brain fart and had two wires wrong. I ended up taking all the wire off again. I then used the thumb over the cylinder head spark plug hole trick to make sure I was at TDC on #1. Then I proceeded to rewire the plug wires one-by-one and triple checking it. When all connected back together..she fired up on the first crank.

Sounds pretty good. Just got to replace the impeller tomorrow, and then, for the water test. If all goes well, I will probably hold of on doing the carb if it seems to be running well. Oh yeah, I need to find another timing light to verify the advance. I did get it adjusted pretty well with the dwell meter.

Overall, I am stoked to be able to do the points, etc. I became a master at pulling the cap off, and adjusting the points in the process. I'm not sure how anyone would adjust them perfectly without a dwell meter. The feeler guage, and recommended point gap was only a starting point.

Thanks for all the help guys, and I'm sure I'll let yall know if it still runs rough after all is said and done.

Cheers

Alright guys, I need your help ASAP. I got the point changed. New rotor, and cap. I set the dwell with a dwell meter to right at 26 degrees(the spec is 24-29).

When I go to start it up, it starts to catch, but then it backfires and dies. Any ideas? Could it be that I need to gap the plugs down to .035" from .040", or do I have different problems.

I am dead sure that I got all the plugs and wires hooked up correctly in the right order. The number one plug is straight aft on the cap, but twisted slightly clockwise from that point. It seems correct that it should be twisted that way to get 6deg BTDC. I did not adjust or loosen the distributor from the block.

Please Help!!!

Don't run the wires between the valve cover and the manifold. Just use the vertical loom kit on the first bolt on the cover closest to the dist. Then route them down the regular way.

I have the wires running around the front. Isn't that they way they are supposed to be? Or do you mean you run them up between the manifolds and valve covers to the front?

I will have to regap the plugs, b/c the ones I got, I think, are plats that are gapped at .040.

I have been reading up on distributors on how to setup the dwell and adjust the points, so hopefully all will go well when I try to replace the points and condensor.