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Exhaust Pipe Seals

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Jim_In_Houston View Drop Down
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    Posted: April-11-2005 at 7:15pm
The area under the floor around my starboard side exhuast hose fills with water everytime I put my '68 in the water. When I pull the boat out of the water I notice a small dribble of water on the outside of boat coming from under the chrome flange the surrounds the tail pipe. I removed the 4 screws that appear to hold the tail pipe flange to the boat but the flange does not easily come off. Will it come off with a little prying? Is there some sort of seal behind it? Do I need to remove a hose clamp somewhere on the inside of the boat before the flange it will come off? How do you replace the tail pipe seal? Anyone?    
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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79nautique View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2005 at 8:18pm
You have to loosen the two hose clamps on the inside first before the flange will come off. Sometimes you can have someone pull on the flange gently to create a gap so that you can apply the caulk without loosing the clamps.
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reidp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote reidp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2005 at 9:21pm
BC, I think Jim's just talking about trim ring flange which serves only to dress up and hide the thru-hull penetration slop around pipe. The tail pipe penetration is caulked from the factory. The cauld gets old, somewhat brittle, cracks, and sometimes and will leak, but the excess caulking will sometimes hold the trim ring/flange on, and everyone I've ever removed indeed took some gentle prying. If the tailpipes are the smaller 2-1/4" ones, then the trim rings may be the ones that have a lip or edge on them as opposed to the flat chromed bronze ones used on most 3" exhaust pipes. This edge can definitely crease and bend in if your not carefull, but it will come off.   
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Jim_In_Houston View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2005 at 11:39pm
Is the caulk applied to the inside between a flange and the inside of the hull or on the outside under the chrome flange? And yep, the chrome trim pieces seem thin and they do have a lip.

What type of caulk is best? Hardening? Non-hardening?
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Jim_In_Houston View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2005 at 12:03am
I just got the tail pipe trim off and there is a 3/16" thick nylon ring seal between the chrome trim and the hull. I do not see how this seal can keep water from leaking in unless it is supposed to compress and squeeze the tail pipe. I can see the hose clamps on the exhaust hose under the fuel tank but the are way too far under the fuel tank to reach. I seperated the exhuast hose from the exhaust manifold and I have pulled and wiggled but I have not been able to slide the hose and tail pipe out of the hull. Is is fastened somehow? Do I need to pull harder? Am I going to have to pull my gas tank? Should I place a soft board against my tail pipe on strike a few blows to drive it inward?

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reidp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote reidp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2005 at 1:09am
Jim,
Hhmmm. Never seen the 3/16" nylon ring before. I wonder if it was originally cut too large as if a Chrysler or Holman Moody engine was going in which used the larger pipes. Mine were a rather tight fit and caulked. As for caulk, 3M 5200 is the standard and found at just about any marine store. It never gets completely hard and is good for underwater use. The stainless or copper thru-hull pipe was glassed in on the inside of the hull on many of the older ones. CC cut grooves in the pipe to help the glass adhere to it. I just recently removed them from the old orange 67 Nautique when I replaced the 2-1/4" pipes with 3" thru-hulls for use with a larger engine. So, you may be able to take a block of wood and bang it from the outside. But if you have no plans or need to remove the pipe and only want to remove the hose, then you probably will have to remove the tank. Not a big deal. Since I was replacing the thru-hull fitting, I smacked on it with your suggested method to no avail whatsoever. It just dug a round hole in the wood. I ended up cutting them off as flush as possible with a Sawzall, and then using the hole saw to cut around them. Pain. They were glassed in very well. I did a similar replacement on my 69 Mustang and they weren't glassed in. Only had to break or tear the caulk joint. If you're replacing the exhaust hose anyway, it may be worth it to go with the 3" stainless pipe and maybe not need the 3/16" spacer, and if you think it sounded good before, the bigger pipes will only add to it. Also, if you have an industrial pipe company close by, you can actually buy the 2-7/8" thin wall copper pipe for less money than the rubber exhaust hose, esp if you're talking about reinforced hose. This is for the straight section under the floor. CC used this method in many boats, as did Century and Chris Craft.          
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Jim_In_Houston View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2005 at 1:38am
Thanks Reid. The holes in the hull fit the through-the-hull pipes very tightly. The 3/16" thick seal is like a gasket that fits against the hull and between the hull and the chrome trim rings.

The hoses seem in good shape. I just want to stop the leak. Based on what you are saying I can caulk around the tail pipe on the outside of the hull and re-install the trim. The nylon seal may only be 1/8" thick and not 3/16" - that is a guess on my part. The nylon ring fits snug around the tail pipe.

(Now I am wondering if the "nylon" ring is actually hardened silicone.)

I will apply caulk tomorrow and re-install. It's annoying to have those cavities fill with water and not drain. I may drill a drain hole into the main bilge area while I am in there.

Thanks again and good luck on your water in head problem.
********************
I just examined the "nylon" ring gasket - it is definitly hardened clear silicone and not nylon at all.
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64 Skier View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 64 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2005 at 9:49am
Reid/Jim,

Great post and one of the item's on my list when I get home.

Good Luck,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nates78ski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2005 at 10:24am
If you have copper pipe going thru the transom they should be sealed with cotton packing like the type used on wooden boat seams. Then bed the trim ring in bedding compound, also make sure you apply bedding compound to the screws before installation.
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Jim_In_Houston View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2005 at 12:11pm
Another new term. What is bedding compound?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2005 at 4:27pm
Reidp, Mine are one piece, the flange is welded to the thru pipe and I didn't realize that some are two pieces. Jim bedding compound is basicly caulk just an older term I believe.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nates78ski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2005 at 9:39pm
Bedding compound is sold by Interlux paints #214. It is used to install(bed) cleats, hardware & thru-hull fittings. 3M 5200 is an excellent product but remember "5200 is forever. If you need to remove fitting in the future 5200 is tough to remove. Bedding those screws come from my experience repairing boats when some one installs a fitting, ei pitot tubes, transducers, etc... and uses a fastner that is too long. The fastner then leaks water around the threads into the hull. Also bedding screws seal water from getting into wood backing causing rot problems.
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Jim_In_Houston View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2005 at 10:16pm
Now you tell me. It's too late. Looks like my tail pipe flanges are installed forever. Thanks for the info though. I may go tp bedding compound on my other CC. The 3M 5200 is a mess.
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