engine starts without turning key

i have a 91 sport nautique that has the exact same problem,but im no electrician and lost all paitenice in trying to fix her with my limited knowlage.i have also replaced every part in the starting system and nothing has fixed the constant starting problem.If anyone lives around orlando that could help me, i would compensate you for your time. Sorry for the thread jack but im dying to use my boat again!

toolman buy a new one from ski dim the rebuilds dont last its probaly to late to get your old one back but if u can have it rebuilt

8122pbrainard wrote: Have the starter checked again. NOT at Checker!! Seen if you can find a shop that rebuilds alternators and starters. They are usually listed under "auto - electric".

ok, well we found out what the problem is..it is the starter. I was buying a automotive starter (we thought someone said there was no difference between a auto and a marine starter) and the difference is that the auto one is operating in reverse of the engine unlike the marine starter that goes in the same direction. That is also why the engine is not firing. So, around here if we go to a Marine store the starter is $200 - $300 but online I see brand new ones that come with a wiring kit for about $179 or a rebuilt from $55.00. The $55.00 one sounds scary but who wants to pay more than you have to. Any comments?

88 Nautique - Yes, replaced it twice.

Well, I am not sure about the relay or the wiring, I think they are right but who knows. The battery cables are brand new. The battery is brand new and has 775 CCA, which I believe is more than sufficient, is that right?

88 Nautique - yes, that is what I did and it was 12 volts plus.

Toolman5,
You mentioned earlier that:

"Turned the key and it started to turn over, turned it off and on a couple times and it was fine. I turned on the water to start the engine and it cranked over several times but would engine would not start. I turned the key off and it continued to crank over until I un hooked the battery."

When you checked for the 12v at the solenoid with the ignition switch in the Start position, you did try this multiple times ??
From the earlier post, it could be an intermittent issue with possible low voltage.

Need to get this sticking solenoid issue corrected 1st. But then the not starting may just be no fuel.
When my 351 sits for a while, I will pour a small amount of fuel directly in the carb and then crank it over, usually fires and then I know is it just in need of fuel. (By small amount of fuel, I am talking a couple tablespoons)

Have the starter checked again. NOT at Checker!! Seen if you can find a shop that rebuilds alternators ans starters. They are usually listed under "auto - electric". If you can't find one, try another parts house like Napa.

Edit: If the solenoid was stuck, you will want to get a new one but you could also take it with you to have it checked too.

I had the same problem. Solenoid stuck in the closed position causing the starter to run on. Insufficiant voltage from the ignition switch wouldn't engage the solonoid fast enough and caused the contacts to "weld" in the closed position.
Do this:
1.Disconnect the battery cable from the solenoid to the starter and reconnect your battery.
2.Take a volt reading at the starter terminal at the solenoid. Should be 0 volts. If your getting 12 volts, your solenoid is stuck closed. Tap on the solenoid to see if you can clear the 12 volts. If you can't, replace the solenoid, but don't try to start your engine yet as you may burn up your new sonenoid.
3.Have someone hold the key in the "start" position. Take a voltage reading at the ignition switch start terminal at the solenoid itself. This is the small terminal with the wire that comes from your ignition switch, through the transmission safety switch then to your solenoid. Should be close to 12 volts. If it's 8 or 9 volts or less, you have a bad or corroded connection in the path between the battery and solenoid. Possibly at the circuit breakers behind the dash, ignition(start) switch or wiring harness. Note: Don't hold the switch in the "start" position very long. This is a momentary relay and will overheat and burn up if left engaged too long.
I found my bad connection where hot wire from the engine wiring harness connects to the dash circuit breaker. Looks like it had overheated at one time from some type of overload from the P.O. Replaced the terminal, cleaned the breaker connection and was good to go.

Yes, it is the stand alone "solenoid" that we are talking about. For some reason, over the years, the term solenoid has been used. It is actually a starter relay. You will see it referred to a relay as well. The solenoid/relay is what the ignition switch turns on.

The solenoid on the starter is what engages the starters gear into the flywheel gear. (ring gear)

Keep the battery disconnected and check the continuity of the main contacts on the solenoid (across the big terminals) Use the ohm meter set to ohms and if you get a reading then contacts are welded together. This would be from the load (starter) and not wiring it wrong nor using a automotive solenoid. Who checked the starter???? Was it someone at a place like Auto Zone? The starer solenoid is nothing more than a heavy duty relay. Marine and auto work the same way.

8122pbrainard - I replaced the ignition switch. Also, can the solenoid be ANY solenoid or does it have to be a marine solenoid? If so, what is the difference? The one I used is a basic four post.

I am dealing with a solenoid problem myself. I have the feeling the replacement solenoid was bad. It is possible, the one I received for Skidim this week was bad, but mine was stuck in the engaged position, so it crank without the turning the key (like in your first post).

If the motor cranks using the screwdriver method it is probably still your solenoid. Let me know if you need any of the solenoid wiring info.

Ok, here is what he said to tell you guys...If he takes a screw driver and touches the two main terminals on the solenoid, the engine cranks over very strong. Also..
He connected the nuetral switch wires together to bypass the nuetral switch incase that was the problem and still the engine didn't start. Also, there is a ceramic stone part right above the solenoid that has two terminals coming off of it and when the key is off that part gets hot. Does any of this tell anybody anything? I am looking in the manual and don't see any wiring diagrams.