Windshield Refinish

The winshield on my '99 Super Air is really faded and really chipped up (got hit with a lot of UV in it's previous life). I've got it off the boat and disassembled...now thinking about what to do next. My original plan was to have someone bead blast and powder coat...now i'm thinking about stripping it myself and taking it to someone to paint or powdercoat (i'm not set up good for painting). I think I have a few options...chemical stripper, wire wheel, sanding, etc...any good advise or techniques on this??

Yes, some have had issues with paint build up when they powder coated.

I need to repaint my frame also.

Donald

i like the idea of anodizing...they would at least want it stripped, right??

msanautique wrote: I have a 84 Barefoot Nautique and i warped the windshield frame in carbon fiber vinyl wrap !!!   Looks really nice, bead blast it if it's all uneven and take it too a sign shop and have it warped, or do it your self!! it's easy. go to youtube and pull up auto wraps same thing!!!

Mark,
Pictures are defiantly needed!! A wrap is available using carbon fiber? How many mills does this add? Was the wrap into the glass channel?

My concern would be water moisture getting under the wrap. Aluminum without a anodizing will white rust real easy. It may look good now but a couple seasons from now I would think you may have a different opinion. I've seen plenty of issues with a powder coat allowing water moisture to get to the aluminum. Yes, again, pictures are needed.

BTW, I don't think you "warped" the frame but wrapped it!!

I would not dismiss powder coating. I've done 2 windshields this way, and both look and have held up great.

Nautique Fan wrote: I have the same issue with my window frame needing to be redone. How hard was the disassembly? I have heard it is a real pain but never done one myself.

it wasn't too bad, but did require some "persuasion" with a shot filled mallet...made me really nervous swinging that thing so close to glass.

i searched a bit and found a place close by that does hard coat anodizing and another guy that does powder coating...going to make some calls on monday.

I think you are really looking at 100 bucks/job min price. May be hard to find a company that will run a job for much less than that. I have restored approx 10 - 12 muscle car frames, pulleys, brackets and anything else black that goes on the car. I love powder coating...it is very tough and easy to clean. I love it for car restoration. But....I do not know how it will hold up in the sun. Second concern is the assembly with close tolerance slip fits from one part to the next. Worse case is you have to blend/file or polish the built up surface for assembly......but that may be tough where the glass slips in. Please let us know how it turns out. I am a few weeks from tearing into my boat and the windshield is something I am going to redo. My powder coater hase a semi gloss black that is a awsome color...that is what I planned to use.

No issues with sun fade on either of the windshields Ive powdercoated. Cost was way higher than $100 on the last one, but that was probably due in part to the "per piece" charge (the '79 windshield has a lot more, smaller pieces).

Reassembly takes some muscle due to the increased thickness of the powder, but a rubber mallet and some dish soap will get it done. Definitely a 2-person job though.

Im starting to get the impression that my local coater is head and shoulders above most, based on everyone else's feedback on powder.

tim,
did you use a gloss black when you had your frames powder coated? that's what i'm planning on using.

Air206 wrote: I have a sun fade concern as well..... I had my #2 trailer Powder-coated with a flat black to keep the original look in a tough new finish. The coating was great but the black sun faded to a gray black...again, fit my purpose but may not be what you want....... confirm your color mix for the sun.

I have no concern what so ever, as long as the coater thinks about the application before starting the job. I've gotten hundreds of things coated, for cars as well as boats. For example, on a car frame I want power that can withstand oil, brake fluid and small rocks hitting it. For a classic car interior, I want coating that does not give me the 'orange skin' effect, that can withstand UV and that can prevent scratches from small items that lay on top of it. For a suspension I want powder with teflon in it that can stand rubbing of two parts for the lifetime of a car.

For all three examples, a totally different powder needs to be used. A serious coater has his arsenal of options available, however, they buy big batches and might want to use something that is already on the shelf to prevent getting stuck with a drum of powder he can never use again after your job.

Make sure he uses UV resistant powder. If you have an open bow, make sure he uses a powder that can withstand rubbing on the edge of the opening window frame.

i finally got this thing all back together...seals were back ordered. everything went together pretty easily once i remembered which part goes where. i had no issues with powder coat build up. i put soapy water on the seals to help with install and a little tap tappy with a rubber mallet where needed. the parts do have a little orange peel to them, but still looks like now. i'll get some photos up soon.

it's a pretty high gloss black...i took some photos last night...i'll get them up soon. are you getting new seals and everything??

i got all the seals from taylor made...many phone calls and emails...eventually she sent me dwgs for all the seals in question that I could compare to my glass,frames, and old seals. it was kind of a pain, but taylor was great to work with and everything fit right.
my frame looks like your '90...as far as i can tell...

Chris,
Do your research on painting aluminum. Visit an automotive paint store and talk to them on the products they recommend. You will need a prep wash and most likely a self etch primer before the finish coats. It will need to come down to bare metal.