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79nautique View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Incredible Performance
    Posted: April-21-2005 at 1:23pm
thanks


I'll have to compare with my buddies boat and see how close it is.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Calculation Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-20-2005 at 10:23pm
79 Nautique,

Zero slip would equate to 74.5 MPH.

After 20% slip you would be looking at 59.5 MPH.

You 1.05 cup makes the prop cut at a pitch of 15.75" per rev
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SS 201 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SS 201 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-20-2005 at 8:46pm
BC,
I am not familar with Acme props, sorry.
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Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-20-2005 at 12:28pm
what would .105 cup have on a 12.5x15 at 5k
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SS 201 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-20-2005 at 7:49am
The formula is correct, depending on how severs the cup.In some cases it can add to the pitch a extra pich. Ex a prop with a 15 cup pitch could be in theory a 16.
Stock 81 CC
13 X 13 X .009469 = 59.0340 -20% = 47 MPH
as I said you have to rate your hull, Bass boats or flatbottom are 10%. Rermember if you havea 123 tranny you subtract 23 % from the engine RPM.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skyhawkflyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2005 at 4:32pm
same here, 5 mph off.
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2005 at 4:01pm
bill is the formula correct? it seems to be off when I plug in the numbers it comes up 5 mph lower than what I would expect. What effect would cup have on the calculation?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skyhawkflyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2005 at 10:29am
The opening rate of a vacuum secondary system is controlled by the diaphragm
spring located in the vacuum secondary diaphragm housing. A "lighter" spring
will allow the the secondary throttle plates to open more quickly. A spring
assortment kit, Holley P/N 20-13, is available to help you "tailor" the secondary
opening rate to your application. A "quick change" kit, Holley P/N 20-59, is also
available for fast and easy access to the spring. It consists of a two-piece
secondary diaphragm housing cover which, after it's installed, can easily cut
in half the time required to change the secondary spring.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skyhawkflyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2005 at 10:27am
The power valve is a key component of the power enrichment system of Holley
performance carburetors. The power enrichment system supplies additional
fuel to the main system during heavy load or full power situations. Holley
utilizes a vacuum operated power enrichment system and a selection of power
valves is available to "time" this system's operation to your
specific requirements.


Each Holley power valve is stamped with a number to indicate its vacuum
opening point. For example, the number "65" indicates that the power valve
will open when the engine vacuum drops to 6.5" Hg, or below.


An accurate vacuum gauge, such as Holley P/N 26-501, should be used when
determining the correct power valve to use.


A competition or race engine which has installed a long duration, high overlap
cam will have low manifold vacuum at idle speeds. If the vehicle has a
manual transmission, take the vacuum reading with the engine thoroughly
warmed up and at idle. If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic
transmission, take the vacuum reading with the engine thoroughly warmed
up and idling in gear. In either case, the power valve selected should have
a vacuum opening point about 2" Hg below the intake manifold
vacuum reading taken.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skyhawkflyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2005 at 10:22am
Gotta ski
As I understand it, the power valve only provides supplimental fuel to the primaries, where as the the colored spring used on the secondary diaphram determines opening rate for the secondaries. I'm my case I had a purple spring which I believe is medium. Correct?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SS 201 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2005 at 8:02am
to figure speed.
RPM X prop pitch X .00946 then divide that by the prop diameter that gives you the speed at 100% then subtract at least 10 - 20 % it gives the speed. However most CC subtract 15 - 18%.

ex. 4800 rpm X 14 = 67200 X .00946 = 6357 minus 18% 521.26834 or 52 MPH.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2005 at 10:35pm
Don't confuse the secondary diaphram spring with the power valve, different annimal
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2005 at 8:30pm
I got mine in the water this week-end and tried out the new prop and did a little stopwatch test as well. It was a little tricky doing it myself with the cell phone, not enought hands to hold the trottle, phone and wheel all at once. But I timed mine a little differently as well, I went from a dead stop to top RPM (5K) or WOT or top speed what ever you want to call it and it took just under 8 seconds on last years gas as well. My speedo's never read over 40-45 mph and need adjusted. But I figure the first time I peg the speedo they'll have to be re-adjusted again anyway so I haven't done it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skyhawkflyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2005 at 1:45pm
Ok, Here's what it did...
I took 2 acceleration times (from 0 to 36mph) with a stop watch after warming the engine up a bit. This is still burning last years fuel in the tank, and there is speedometer lag.
The first acceleration test to 36 mph from a dead stop was 8.02 seconds.
The second time was 7.97 seconds.
I think it's pretty good for 18 year old boat
(1987 2001) with 700+ hours on it!!!!
We skied afterward too, the water temp is 60 degree at Lake Anna, Virginia!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 64 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2005 at 6:20am
SS201....about 6 months ago you helped me fix my carb problems...she's still running great.
64 Skier
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SS 201 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2005 at 8:12pm
Put a vacum guage on and get the vacumn reading at different RPM with and without a load. The guage will give you the reading. The more load less vacumm, most marine carbs are inistalled 6.5, however depending each situations,conditions and engine performance it can vary.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 64 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2005 at 5:16am
Jim,

I recall you putting a HP cam in that rebuild...you may want to get a vacuum gauge and measure your engine vacuum from idle to Max RPM...dead starts with a skier etc and then talk to Holley before you buy.

I can't remember and maybe one of you guy's know, but under a hard start you may not want the secondaries flooding in more fuel to quickly so a lower # power valve may be better???

Isn't there some type of rule of thumb for the vacuum and RPM you want the power valve to unload more fuel???



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2005 at 4:09pm
Thanks all. Good info.
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2005 at 2:31pm
If they are the blue holley gaskets you should be able to remove them without damage just be carefull. I pulled mine off about four or five times with no problem when I was change the jets last year.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skyhawkflyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2005 at 1:16pm
Go Here: click to enlarge:
http://holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/TechInfo/4150-60.html

It's threaded into the primary metering plate behind the fwd fuel bowl. You will have to disassemble, and may take some time for gasket clean up. New gaskets required unless fairly new
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2005 at 1:14pm
Yes, the bowl and primary metering block has to come off, for a 4160 model. New gaskets are required.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2005 at 1:00pm
How do you get to the power valve? Is looking to see what power valve you have a 3 minute project? Are new gaskets required when checking?
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2005 at 12:39pm
Yah, I think you're right I described it backwards, and probably experienced the same symtoms as you guys before I sorted it out..

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skyhawkflyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2005 at 10:48am
Jameski's got it down pat. That's why you want to keep your eye open for the #25 power valve that might be floating around in some of the older kits sitting on the shelf, throw it out, it's terrible. (I actually had it installed on my carb)
I think the "renew" kits replaced the old trick kits.
If you spray your gaskets with silicone they won't stick like the originals.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jameski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2005 at 10:38am
Gotta Ski, that sounds backwards, the higher your power valve number, the earlier (and more often) it opens and enriches your mixture. You have high vacuum when you are idleing or holding steady RPM, but when you open your throttle plates and put your engine under load, your vacuum drops and your power valve opens. If you have a low number power valve, it will not open unless you put a HUGE load on your engine (like wide-open-throttle from stop) and your vacuum drops WAY down. If your have a high number power valve, it will open more often and under less load.
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94 Sport Nautique
previous boat
78 Martinique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2005 at 9:13am
In my experience, a power valve 5.5" or higher causes a lean dull spot when you launch hard, forcing some to over-accel pump to compensate, or just live with it. Then too much accel pump can then cause a rich stumble when just accelerating easy..

I have gotten the best results with a 4-4.5" power valve and quite certain I would not be satisfied with a 6.5 .

(The number equates the vacuum required to actuate the valve and permit gas to the main jets.)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1time17 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2005 at 2:07am
for those that want to replace your prop overtons has a prop puller 99.99 its well worth it to have if you ever ding your prop or need to change a friends.
gotta love those old school nautiques
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skyhawkflyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2005 at 4:43pm
I only saw the automotive trick kit for 79.99. I see they have a marine repair kit or a marine renew kit. What I installed was a Marine Trick Kit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2005 at 4:25pm
Jegs lists the trick kit on their website still. I got my kit from rex marine. I used holley's website to get the correct kit number first. I don't remember if the kit had the diaphram for the secondaries or not, my dad did the overhaul at his shop, he did have to get something that wasn't in the kit and maybe it was the diaphram. On me carb it doesn't have all of the interchangable cams for the accel pump and all of the other goodies that the double pumper models have. I have thought about getting one but what I have has worked well. I had to re-jet it after all of the engine mods I did so it wouldn't run lean. I just put on my new ACME prop and a shaft seal yesterday and should be able to take it for a spin this week-end to see if I got the right pitch and dia to bring back the RPM's to 5k-5.5k and I'm looking to top out around 65mph on smooth water. My buddy is bring up his bass boat this week-end so I can find out what the top end is. I killed him out of the hole last year and hope to still be able to with the new prop.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skyhawkflyer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2005 at 1:53pm
I know they have been playing around with their kits and the names changed. the old kits had a #25 which wasn't the best. I bought my trick kit in 98, so it's been sitting for a few years. I don't think you can get a trick kit anymore, but it sounds like the renew kit is the same. Did you get a new secondary diaphram with the kit. I didn't.
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