Where to start with this engine rebuild?

More than you might think! Anyone doing a flat tappet or tie bar lifter rebuild could use a good 351 core.

TRBenj wrote: More than you might think.

If scraps that high in Connecticut I have a truck load to unload then we can do some skiing

Keep looking in just a page or two I saw they had a marine 351 listed not a roller but it had a cam and heads. Maybe a call would confirm they could provide a marine short block with roller cam ?

Marine engines require a different ring gap very important !! Since they are under heavy load most of the time make sure whoever you get shortblock from understands marine specs

Somehow missed link on marine longblock DUH. Yep that would be right direction.

MrMcD,   thanks for the tip,    I emailed summit last week and got no response.... seems like an easy question, so maybe they are just busy.   I will check with Motorworks and S&J,   I like local companies and will compare prices.   Reliability is paramount at this point, otherwise I would embark on the rebuild myself path.... its kinda killing me to buy an engine already rebuilt, but other things are more important to do myself.    I did a Honda engine 4 years ago, and a couple of other engines before that.   I enjoy the process, but don't have any experience with SBF's.

Will the dipstick be in the block or the pan?

So here's the latest update:   the engine is out and stripped.   I found a couple of things in the process that I'd love to have some feedback on...   

1.   my intake is cracked, from the t-stat housing all the way into the lifter valley.   Yuck.... what do I gain by upgrading verses finding a stock replacement?



2.   when I took off the front pulley, these two "weights" fell out of the front of it.   are they for balancing?   If they are for balance, should I get a new pulley, or try and repair somehow?   Is there anything special about this pulley that I should know if I need to order one
"weights"


Rim of the pulley where I suspect they are from:


3.   Should I replace the engine water pump now?   Mine seemed to be working fine when removed...

Interesting side notes:   
-94 PCM engines are roller blocks, they have the boss in the lifter valley, .
- my dipstick is in the side of the oil pan.     
- My engine saw a LOT of water for a sustained period of time Note the water mark on the flywheel, and the back of the transmission. and the crust on the timing gears.   there is a bunch of crust in the lifter valley as well...





when I pulled the left head, I found a bunch of "Grit" in cylinder #4, but no signs of bad rust pitting... I did do a leak down test and the cylinder was at the low end of marginal and leaking through the rings, so I feel like purchasing a motor was still the right decision for me... I could have maybe gotten by with a hone and a re-ring, but that would have been the same amount of tear down work.

Engine has arrived!   

While I was waiting for the truck to show up yesterday, I got some of the old parts cleaned, and started to paint manifolds etc.    I also did a little site research and found several intake threads.   In my reading, it looks like the Edelbrock Performer RPM intake and the square bore adapter plate were best choice shortest engine height/best performance, so that is what I ordered to replace my cracked stock manifold.    

Square bore Adapter
Edelbrock Manifold

looks like more paint work and some bottom end assembly this week while I wait for the intake to arrive.   Sure hope it gets here quickly, vacation is scheduled for the week of the 6th, nothing like trying to button it up last minute    

I believe that the Weiand Stealth is a bit lower than the Edelbrock Performer. Height may be an issue, so an inch may be significant.

JQ

Ok, well, I may have just created more work for myself.    I was thinking that the performer RPM and the Performer were the same height.   Several threads recommended the RPM vs the straight performer, so that is what I have on the way.    Here is the thread I found during my research Intake Thread I may end up having to cut down the flame arrestor a bit if all doesn't go as planned.   

Tim - can you explain the purpose of the carb spacer with the PCV port?   it appears that there is a vacuum port on the manifold that could be used for the PCV if I wanted to eliminate the spacer.    Eliminating the spacer could get the carb lower and limit the need for arrestor Mods and throttle cable adjustments too.

I have seen dyno operators test an engine, then add a spacer and see the same exact engine pick up 10 or more horsepower. The whys of this I can't explain but many times the spacer will add horsepower. When do you put a fire in the hole? (start it up)

4 hole spacers add low-mid torque, open spacers help mid upper hp. That's the conventional line of thinking anyways.

Depending on the intake and arrestor you're running, it may be a moot point. Motor box clearance may make your decision easier. PCV plumbing is a consideration if you decide to ditch the spacer.

Specs are wrong or are using different reference points.

Stock-stealth-performer


Performer-stealth-stock

Great answer for him Tim, your spare parts list is amazing. You must be experimenting a lot.