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ProTec Ignition Swap

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michiel200 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote michiel200 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-28-2016 at 11:45am
Hi Malcolm, I don't have an inductive timing light. My plan was to get the engine started and ask a local shop to set it on time. The spark on cil 1 was by just taking it off and crancking it.

I already did some checks regarding fuel, since I replaced the fuel filter this winter. And the spark plugs looked quited dry, despite the cranking i did. So I passed the filter, connecting the tube direct from tank to pump. However, no result.
I will look further in this direction. Thanks!
'92 BFN
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malcolm2 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-28-2016 at 11:26am
do you have an inductive type timing light? Although you said you got spark on #1. You could quickly check all 8 with one of those.

Sounds like you have installed it correctly and the DUI is getting the correct voltage. Maybe you have a fuel issue. Make sure you are getting fuel. Carb I assume? Even tho the disty is new, you should go thru std "no-start" troubleshooting procedures.

Good Luck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote michiel200 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-28-2016 at 10:54am
During the winter storage, I've swapped my ProTec for a DUI.
I bought the distributor and cables in the US from a guy who had it installed on his S.N. but sold the boat with the old set.




I followed the instructions in this post, but can't get the engine (PCM 5.8 HO)
to start this week (the first week that the boat is in the water).

Made the new connections, disconnected the EMS and Trigger plug
I found out the TDC in cilinder 1, using my finger (feeling the compression) and a small wooden stick and a wrench turning the cranck. Marked the distributor where the rotor was pointing at and made this cil 1. Checked the firing order and connected all plug cables.

After a couple of cranks, the voltage on the DUI dropped under 10,5 V, so I made a direct connection to the battery having 11,5 V on the cable connected to the DUI. When I remove a spark plug and crank, I see a clear spark. Gap is 0,05, plugs are new Motorcrafts from Skidim. Tried several distributor positions around the marked cil 1 position.

Any thoughts from you guys?
Many thanks in advance from Holland

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nobrainsd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nobrainsd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2016 at 2:12pm
Wow Backfoot100, that is a clean looking ride!

Since everyone likes photos here is a shot of the 'T' coming off my manifold with the temp sensor on one end and a heater connection coming off the other. This is why my DUI is not squared up to the engine. Nice to be able to set it up any way I wanted to.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2016 at 5:07pm
Originally posted by backfoot100 backfoot100 wrote:

My MSD cap script is facing straight fore/aft ]

Eddie,
You're as OCD with your distributor caps as you are with the rest of the boat! I love it!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote backfoot100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2016 at 4:08pm
In virtually all of my engine books, the authors recommend to get the #1 terminal of the dizzy to point toward #1 cylinder. Probably for ease of remembering which terminal is truly #1. If you want to call that "norm" fine, but #1 terminal can point any direction you want it to.

That's probably the reason that dizzy manufacturers have designed the caps to have the company name or logo facing in a particular direction when the dizzy is oriented in this manner. When it's different then the "norm" it looks odd.
Hence, the DUI script on top of the cap facing a different direction then the "norm". I'm pretty sure most all of the DUI installs I've seen have the script going port/stbd. Ford or Chevy doesn't matter. The manufacturers take that into consideration.
My MSD cap script is facing straight fore/aft in this pic. The cap and the terminal keeper is keyed so it can only go on one way and my dizzy is set so #1 is pointing toward #1 cylinder.


It's all about advertising and the money that advertising brings in. At least IMHO....LOL



When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KRoundy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2016 at 1:24pm
Hmmm... I guess this is true now that I think about it.. I guess it was just dumb luck that the first two installations were at the same orientation.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2016 at 2:41pm
Todd,
The norm can be anywhere in 360 degrees depending on where distributor gear is engaged on the cam.


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JPASS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2016 at 2:37pm
Never really thought about it as everyone seemed to wind up with the dizzy in a similar position. Makes perfect sense to have it look different depending on the installation though.

Glad the write up helped.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nobrainsd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2016 at 2:27pm
DUI said that I could choose any one of the terminals to be #1. Just had to make sure that the progression from that point was correct. This orientation made the connections to my wiring harness conveniently placed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2016 at 2:27pm
Distributor cap position, wire position... There is no such thing as "normal position". Order, yes- position, no. It all depends on the orientation of the distributor when it was installed. There is no right or wrong (other than cosmetics).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2016 at 2:14pm
who's to say he has his plug wires on the same terminals as the "norm"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orlando76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2016 at 2:10pm
Is that really the correct timing in that picture? That's quite a few degrees different from the norm.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nobrainsd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2016 at 2:04pm
I would like to thank JPASS and all of the others who have contributed to this thread. When my 94 Ski Nautique started to have intermittent issues I was sure it was the Protec system beginning to fail. It was great to find this thread with detailed descriptions and photographs. I had no trouble swapping out the carb and the ignition system. My boat has run reliably ever since!

Perfect pass, a new 100 amp alternator, a closed cooling system, new manifolds and risers, a new carb (rebuilt), a DUI distributor, rewired harness, a mechanical fuel pump and the proper hard gas line... all thanks to CCF. I really appreciate the forum.

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michiel200 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote michiel200 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-18-2015 at 5:36pm
I bought a used D.I.U. distributor and spark plug wires on Ebay.
The seller sold his SN and switched the distributor and manifold for the old parts.
Precaution on the ProTec on my '92 BFN with 5.8 HO.

With the help of this very useful instruction I will do the swap this spring.
The boat is in winter storage now.
Many thanks for posting it!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2015 at 9:03pm
Talking to another CC owner today he suggested that the oil and temp switch signals could still be used to activate the existing dash warning light/lights if you have them or whatever device you wanted to add. The limp mode function is gone so you have to turn the engine off yourself but an overtemp/low oil pressure warning led/horn or whatever you want to use might be nice. All you would need is a wire from the dash to the engine and connect it to F which goes to the switches. Then connect 12V to the other side of your device.

After thinking about this a little more you could also wire something up that kills the ignition signal and turns off the engine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-27-2015 at 2:41pm
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37573&title=voltage-for-my-protec-swap

Link to further discussion on this subject. Specifically read the post I called GOTCHAS before you get too deep into this conversion.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2015 at 10:44pm
Well look at that....... a link 6 minutes later
Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2015 at 10:33pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2015 at 10:27pm
Oddly enough, I can't remember what I had for supper tonight, but I do remember this issue coming up in the past.

Do a google search and type in Correctcraftfan intake manifold you'll find a post started by Dan in CT on June 4 2014 with some info on how one guy remedied his problem with a spacer between the thermostat housing and the intake manifold.

I'd include a link to it, but it would probably take me about 3 weeks to make that happen

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2015 at 10:10pm
Here's some more shots of ours. It's close, but it fit.











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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2015 at 10:07pm
it may just end up being a tight squeeze. I am going to see if I can find a thinner walled hose tomorrow.

I did not mess with TDC yet, but I dropped the unit into the engine in a very similar orientation to the above pictures in a previous post.

Protec is off, wires are cut and a few have been totally removed.....

Then I got thirsty and called it quits for tonight. more photos tomorrow in the day light.

Clark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2015 at 9:57pm
Hmm. I never had any clearance issues with our '92. It was close, but there was plenty of room.

Is the dizzy set so the rotor is pointing to cylinder 1 at TDC?

Take a pic looking down on the dizzy so we can see whats going on.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2015 at 9:40pm
OK, I am into this thing.... Took the pro-tec disty off and installed my new blue DUI. No one has mentioned that the water pipe and hose GET IN THE WAY.

I have install the new disty at a very similar angle as pictured above. The only adjustment I am going to have is distance between 2 posts at the water pipe. Have not tried to put the hose back on yet...

The disty cap had to be removed to get the unit to seat fully into the block.

any thoughts?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2015 at 2:25pm
While installing the DUI I suggest that you read the voltage at P on the connector or at the 12.5 Amp breaker point 26 on the diagram. Per the DUI website it needs to be above 10.5Vdc while the engine is cranking for the DUI to operate correctly. I didn't mention this to JPASS when he installed his because I believe he had already beefed up his dash wiring so I assumed he was OK. If the voltage is below 10.5 then you will either need to beef up the dash wiring ( easy to do. positive side only not the grounds) or install a relay that switches the 12Vdc at the engine to the DUI and is controlled by the key switch voltage (which is what CC should have done in the first place for the Protec).

From DUI website:
If all of your connections check out good, then check your battery voltage as you are cranking the engine. Since the DUI is a high performance ignition system it requires more voltage than a standard ignition system. If your battery voltage drops below 10.5 volts, this is not enough power to get the distributor to fire. This condition can be due to a weak or old battery or you are using a hot wire that has a resistor in line. Use a volt meter to test the hot wire while someone else cranks the engine over. If the voltage drops below 10.5, check your battery. To make sure it is not the hot wire, run a temporary jumper wire directly from the positive side of the battery to the distributor. If the distributor fires using the jumper wire, run a new hot wire from your switched 12 volt source to the distributor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Air206 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2015 at 2:05pm
Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

Good to hear, life is too short for ProTec issues


Need to do it - feel too responsible for my friends slaving over a crappy ignition system while I scratch my head and get the eye wash station ready...........
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2015 at 1:42pm
Originally posted by Air206 Air206 wrote:

Getting Ready to do this swap, just ordered from Performance Distributors. - got red (red is always fast)

For the Barefoot, it's a Chevy 454.........
Will Post Pics and variations.

AWESOME write up!


Good to hear, life is too short for ProTec issues
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Air206 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2015 at 1:40pm
Getting Ready to do this swap, just ordered from Performance Distributors. - got red (red is always fast)

For the Barefoot, it's a Chevy 454.........
Will Post Pics and variations.

AWESOME write up!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malcolm2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2015 at 1:08pm
GRACIAS.
Thanks for the confirmation.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-23-2015 at 1:02pm
Originally posted by desertskier desertskier wrote:

Also, I probably wouldn't use wire nuts for any of these connections.


+1

Use heat shrink connectors for all of the connections being made. They're pretty cheap and readily available.




'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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