1969 Ski Nautique Stringers- Why, I don't know |
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MartyMabe
Grand Poobah Joined: February-21-2006 Location: High Point,NC Status: Offline Points: 3974 |
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Pics- or it didn't happen |
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wwchevy
Senior Member Joined: August-22-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Cut the port side stringers out today.
They did not come out cleanly. The main was pretty rotten and there was a lot of wood loss, especially where the trans mounts. I don't really have a good pattern but I made sure to tape any pieces that broke off back in place. Since I am not putting cross brace notches back in, I can run a string along the top of the stringer to get a "good" pattern. The only concern is where the engine mounts to the stringer. They have a recess where the mounts sit and that recess stops at the pylon support. Perhaps I can take great care when removing the fiberglass off the starboard stringer that is still in the boat and use that one to get the shape of the engine mount area of the stringer. That area is as bad as the trans mount area |
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wwchevy
1989 Barefoot Nautique |
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wwchevy
Senior Member Joined: August-22-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Next up is removing all of the wood in the floor and transom, cutting any excess fiberglass left standing an get to grinding.
Spray rail (only have one left on the boat) are screwed & bolted from both sides. At least I have a good pattern for those |
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wwchevy
1989 Barefoot Nautique |
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ny_nautique
Platinum Member Joined: June-01-2011 Location: Albany NY Status: Offline Points: 1215 |
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Wow Wes, those could be the worst I've seen on this site. Any of those boats that were left uncovered in a field for years probably look like this.
You're making good progress though! |
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- Jeff
1999 Ski Nautique |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Wes, One trick on the spray rails is to make them by laminating 3/8" thick wood together. You use the actual hull as a form. Wax paper the hull and then using the bolt holes through the hull, epoxy the lamination's together. Remove after the epoxy has cured and do the shaping. A belt sander works great. With this method, you will get an exact fit to the hull. CPES the wood and 5200 them to the hull, fill the bolt holes with filled epoxy, CPES again, mask the hull and spar varnish. (at least 6 coats) The other method I use is to tape carbon paper to the hull and rub the new rail up against it. That will tell you were the high spots are. Then if the radius is small enough I'll use the belt sander otherwise a 3" dia. drum sander. Using the old rails as a pattern will never give you the fit to the hull needed for a clean fit especially with a bright finish. |
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wwchevy
Senior Member Joined: August-22-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Progress has been slow, but I am back at it with a vengeance. Removed all of the wood from the floor and ground the fiberglass in the bottom of the hull.
Spent about 4 hours cutting, grinding, hacking, sweating and swearing to get the lift eye wood off of the transom. Definitely should have left that alone. No rot, rock solid- but I guess you don't know until you waste an afternoon killing yourself on something totally unnecessary. |
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wwchevy
1989 Barefoot Nautique |
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wwchevy
Senior Member Joined: August-22-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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I couldn't find Douglas Fir around here, so I bought a 2" x 14" x17' plank of reclaimed Doug Fir from a 100 year old building in Detroit. Not sure if anyone has used reclaimed Doug Fir before, bit I figured it was better than pine.
Even with the partial split down the middle I was able to get 2 oversized blanks out of the one piece. Planed them down and they looked pretty sweet. I live in a 120 year old farm house that I restored, so I am familiar with old wood. It obviously changes properties over the years, becomes a little harder and you have to look through a stack to find the boards with the least amount of imperfections. These were roof joists in an old welding shop / service station looking building. You don't find grain like this at Home Depot. |
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wwchevy
1989 Barefoot Nautique |
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wwchevy
Senior Member Joined: August-22-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Used my rotted old stringers for a pattern. Had to fudge in the areas that were missing. Wasn't too much of a problem since I left the other set of stringers in the boat. Coated them with a few coats of Home Brew- especially in any nail holes. Using 2"X6" pine for the secondary's, I don't really care for 1"X6" secondary's, 2X gives the back removable panels a little more area to sit on.
Put the old stringers to good use- kindling (even though they are too wet and rotten to burn) |
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wwchevy
1989 Barefoot Nautique |
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wwchevy
Senior Member Joined: August-22-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Pete,
Thanks for the advice on the spray rails. I had no idea what I was going to do, but I like your plan. I have to do those and attach them before I put the floor on. I assume they should be bolted/ screwed from both directions(inside and outside). Mine had a metal trim piece over the screw heads that went in from the outside. |
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wwchevy
1989 Barefoot Nautique |
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wwchevy
Senior Member Joined: August-22-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Got the starboard stringers out and they were worse than the ports.
Unfortunately, I don't think I will be making a pattern. The rot is so bad on both port and starboard stringers that I had to "recreate" areas of the stringers that are missing. |
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wwchevy
1989 Barefoot Nautique |
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wwchevy
Senior Member Joined: August-22-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Port stringers are bedded and once the starboard stringers were out, I spent 5 hours straight grinding the hull. I am getting too old for this.
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wwchevy
1989 Barefoot Nautique |
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wwchevy
Senior Member Joined: August-22-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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wwchevy
1989 Barefoot Nautique |
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wwchevy
Senior Member Joined: August-22-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Got the stringers bedded and filleted. I may have to plane the top of the secondary's in a few spots to make them even with the primary's.
The next step is to lay up the glass on the stringers. I'm going to do 2 layers each of 2", 4" & 8" tape on the Primary's, then 12" Biax up each side and one layer over the top. For the secondary's I was thinking of doing 1 layer each of 2", 4" & 8" with no biax (does that sound right or should I do 2 layers of each on the secondarys also?) |
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wwchevy
1989 Barefoot Nautique |
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Morfoot
Grand Poobah Joined: February-06-2004 Location: South Lanier Status: Offline Points: 5313 |
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Looking good! Great job documenting and keeping us entertained. My folks live in a 120 yr old house and it's cool to see the wood grain of the lumber used back then. I doubt we'll ever see that again in todays lumber. Hmmmm might be a market in some of the lumber from these old houses/barns that they're tearing down. Especially the long boards.
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"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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wwchevy
Senior Member Joined: August-22-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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I'm still working on the boat but progress is slower than I wanted. Stringers are glassed in 2", 4" & 8" cloth tape- 2 layers of each and then Biax up each side and over the top of each Main Stringer. Put in the wood for the strainers, exhaust, rudder & lift rings. Coated those with home brew, covered with cloth, bedded with thickened epoxy and finally biax on top. I put in some stringer supports, but probably not enough. I will add more when I put the floor in to make sure I have supports where the floor joints are. Bulkheads are in and I have drain holes everywhere so water will drain out.
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wwchevy
1989 Barefoot Nautique |
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wwchevy
Senior Member Joined: August-22-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Put two coats of Bilgekote on and probably will add a third coat. Had a hard time deciding on gray or white, but since the interior is white, I went with a color that will show every drop of oil.
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wwchevy
1989 Barefoot Nautique |
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wwchevy
Senior Member Joined: August-22-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Started buffing and polishing the deck gel. It isn't in the best shape, but doesn't look too bad. I wet sanded and buffed it, but still need to polish it. I want to get the gel done before I put the dash and helm back in. It should look presentable. The hull is painted and I am going to leave it that way for the summer. If I want to use this boat this year I have to cut back somewhere.
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wwchevy
1989 Barefoot Nautique |
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wwchevy
Senior Member Joined: August-22-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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I am going on vacation Saturday for a week and won't be able to work on the boat, but when I get back I am going to attempt the spray rails. I need to get those done before I can put the floor in. I bought some white oak that I will cut into strips, laminate using the hull as a form and varnish, but truthfully I am a little nervous about tackling this part of the job. I'm no Pete Brainard, but then who is??
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wwchevy
1989 Barefoot Nautique |
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wwchevy
Senior Member Joined: August-22-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Completed one of my biggest concerns that was holding up progress- the Spray Rails. I needed to get them done so that I could start putting down the floor, since they are attached below the floor. I bought a 1"x 4"x 11' piece of clear white oak. I ripped 1" wide by 11' pieces- same size as the rails that I took off the boat.
They were painted black and had a metal trim piece nailed on from the outside. They were screwed to the hull from the inside and bolted from the outside |
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wwchevy
1989 Barefoot Nautique |
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wwchevy
Senior Member Joined: August-22-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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After ripping the 1" wide strips, I shaped the taper on both ends to match the original. Rails got 6 coats of spar varnish with 0000 steel wool between coats.
I attached them all from the inside except the final screw at the bow, which I screwed in from the outside. I felt there was a lot of stress on the bow ends because I used one solid piece and bent it to the hull. The new doug fir I put in to support the bow eye made that area of the bow really solid, so I ran a 2" screw into that wood. I may or may not use a metal trim piece on the outside edge, haven't decided yet. I am no wooden boat builder, but they turned out pretty good for my first attempt. Thankfully they are out of the way and I can continue on with this endless project. |
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wwchevy
1989 Barefoot Nautique |
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wwchevy
Senior Member Joined: August-22-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Working on the floor now. I put in 2" PVC for the vents and 4" for the new steering cable and wiring. I am fabbing a battery box in between the PVC, not sure how that is going to turn out, but I don't like the battery under the drivers seat.
Started cutting up some plywood for the floor. Plan on CPES and cloth on both sides and attaching to the stringers with thickened epoxy. I am unsure about taping the floor to the hull. I have read some conflicting info on attaching the two, but I am leaning toward attaching. |
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wwchevy
1989 Barefoot Nautique |
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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Wow. Your craftsmanship is amazing. Keep it up!
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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Smithfamily
Platinum Member Joined: December-26-2007 Location: Orlando, Fl Status: Offline Points: 1602 |
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Looking Great!!
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Js
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wwchevy
Senior Member Joined: August-22-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Have the floor pieces cut out and mocked up. I was having trouble with the placement of the removable access panel for the back, so I hauled out the interior and set it in the boat for help cutting things correctly. I'm looking for any input that I am about to make a big mistake, cause I am coating the floor, covering with cloth and epoxying it down next.
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wwchevy
1989 Barefoot Nautique |
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wwchevy
Senior Member Joined: August-22-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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I am putting the battery in the floor between the PVC pipes. I made a frame, still need to cover with fiberglass and paint with bilge paint. The battery I chose barely fits but I am unsure where else to put it. If the battery idea doesn't work out maybe it can be a cooler??
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wwchevy
1989 Barefoot Nautique |
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wwchevy
Senior Member Joined: August-22-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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I would like for the observer seat to tilt on hinges. Any ideas on the hinges to use? Anyone have seats like that and have photos?
Thanks, Wes |
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wwchevy
1989 Barefoot Nautique |
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wwchevy
Senior Member Joined: August-22-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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When I bought the 69 Ski Nautique that I am working on there was a freeze plug popped out and laying in the bilge and when I removed the block drain plug from the other side of the block it was full of water. The owner said it had been winterized when it was put away in 1997. The 318 for this boat runs great, has great compression and doesn't overheat, but when I pulled it out of the boat and put it on the stand the oil pan was full of 8 quarts of milky sludge (I assume cracked block letting water into the oil, but won't know until I disassemble the engine). I'm getting to the point where I am going to deal with the engine- new block, rebuild, whatever it takes, so I was cruising Craislist looking for anything that I might need. Came across an ad for (2) 318 Marine engines in a boat that has been in storage for a couple of years. Talk to the guy and he was going to try to get them running, but one wouldn't turn over by hand and he hadn't checked the other one, but he is 70 years old and it is too much work so he just wants to get rid of them if I will pull them out. I am dumb and like really hard work with very little payoff so I said "I'll take them".
1966 Lyman was last cruising Lake Erie in 2002 Sawzall makes nice access holes Free engines complete with velvet drives Laid plywood sheets on the ground, borrowed my brothers trailer (He said he was "busy" that day) Made boxes for them, lagged the engines to the boxes, screwed the boxes to the floor, strapped them down and drove home I am hoping to get one good running engine out of the three that I have, but if not I will have a bunch of parts to sell. |
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wwchevy
1989 Barefoot Nautique |
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fanofccfan
Platinum Member Joined: December-13-2009 Location: North Bend NE Status: Offline Points: 1743 |
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Go chrysler GO! That's a great deal but lots of work on your part. Curious to see how that all turns out.
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81skinautique
Newbie Joined: July-04-2014 Location: Hadley, NY Status: Offline Points: 13 |
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Wow, very nice job! I will have to do a stringer job on my 81 this winter. Looks like alot of work but seems well worth it!
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21135 |
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I'll take one of those alternators if you end up with a spare!
All of the marine LM chryslers from that vintage had forged cranks... Make sure you save all your RH stuff! The 318 blocks themselves are a dime a dozen. If you really want to have fun and are rebuilding from the bottom up, build a 340 instead of a 318- just need a block (plus pistons and rods, which you'd be replacing anyways) and swap the other parts over. |
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