Siezed GT40

Don't worry, Pete. I definitely wasn't about to try. (Although, I guess I need to learn at some point). I think I can manage the seal, though, hopefully.

What internal problems would you anticipate? I'm a little new to the transmission interworkings.
Thanks, Jake.

Checked with copy paper again before going out and found fresh drips on the bottom of the tranny underneath the interface between the engine and tranny. Must be that front seal on the input shaft. Dreaming, thanks, and I did be sure to check that; anything not to pull the tranny lol. Seems fine. I'm very tempted to lay out some bildge diapers under the tranny, keep it topped off, and let it slide until the end of season and mess with it this winter. Anybody think this could damage the tranny? I am aware, this is majorly shadetree.
Thanks, Jake.

Good to hear. Napa is right around the corner. I am anticipating the tranny removal to be lots of fun as it was on the barracuda. Confused, went down again today to check and see where it was leaking from, and still no obvious signs of leakage anywhere!
Thanks for all input.
Jake.

Gary, I did notice your post from earlier and considered it. It definitely sounds like it could potentially be the culprit. The '86 I had came out of the same type of situation and needed a front end seal after a few weeks too. Go figure. I bet you're right on with that one. How difficult was it to change the seal? Never done it myself. The dampner should probably be replaced while it's apart, also. Well, crap. I wanted to ski some more this summer.

Thanks, Jake.

Gordon, we stuck some white copy paper down there hoping to locate where it is leaking from. We ran it under load, but no faster than about 20kts. We saw no leaks. It's the weirdest thing. Then again, when the issue began to arise, we were at skiing speeds. Are there any common problems associated with these symptoms?
Thanks. Jake.

Hey, all, I'm back with a problem. Boat has been running excellent and faithfully pulling me skiing with no issues until today when the tranny started slipping on hard turns and takeoffs halfway through my run. Come to find out, the fluid was low as I had figured. It's definitely leaking from somewhere because the bildge is a nasty oily mess now. Could it be one of the main seals, cooler, or hoses to cooler? Filled it back up and ran it watching closely for leaks. Can't see any. Anyone had a similar problem? I'm stumped. Thanks in advanced!
Jake.

Silver15 wrote: Strangely enough, the problem turned out to be a spark plug,

How'd you determine it was a plug?

Also, my GT40 manual says use 89, which is what I've always used with no problems.

Mine will not run on regular. I run premium, but could probably run mid grade.

FYI,

Donald

I know my, older more simple, engine is supposed to get 89. I'd imagine the GT-40 would have the same or greater requirement. 87 is not high enough, whether or not that's what's causing the problem is another question.

Silver15 wrote: ..I noticed it was running a little rough. Trying to plain out I could feel it hesitating... I could feel when it would surge into full power and then pull back again almost as if a cylinder was getting bad spark or something...Based upon what cylinder was not firing (confirmed with heat gun) and the engine's horrid mantainance history, he diagnosed it as a burned out valve...

But it sometimes gives full power? Wouldn't a burned valve miss consistently. I would imagine that as a perfectly timed miss coming with every engine rotation.

Okay, Thanks, TRB. I'll search up a thread on that. Unfortunately, it seems that we've run into a more immediate problem, though. After the boat ran great for several days with the new alternator etc, we finally cleaned up the interior and put it all back together to use it for the summer. As soon as we put the boat in, I noticed it was running a little rough. Trying to plain out I could feel it hesitating. Drove for 15 minutes or so back to the house and it never fixed itself. I could feel when it would surge into full power and then pull back again almost as if a cylinder was getting bad spark or something. Our good friend, Art, came over to take a look at it. (Very experienced Correct Craft mechanic of many years)Based upon what cylinder was not firing (confirmed with heat gun) and the engine's horrid mantainance history, he diagnosed it as a burned out valve. Great. I guess this means we'll be pulling the heads. Again, this hasn't been 100% confirmed. Could still be a fuel or spark issue. So, now we're back at square one. A little frustrating, but can't complain. Hopefully sourcing rebuild parts for these heads won't be too much of a hassle.
Jake

Oh, okay. I wasn't sure which ones were which. I know the older ones such as the one in or older Nautique spin the opposite direction. This posed a confusing discussion when we were buying a starter.... The technician said that it was evident that it was spinning one direction while we suggested that HAD to be impossible. Can I get some people's opinions on the best oil for the Gt40? Synthetic?
Jake

slmskrs wrote: I want to re-confirm that rotational direction is based on looking at the engine from the rear. A LH rotation engine turns the crankshaft pulley clockwise when viewed from the front (which is where I am usually looking at it from). :)

This is correct.

Silver15 wrote: One notable difference between the GT40 and older engines, is that it turns the opposite direction.

^^That is not quite correct.

The vast majority of PCM engines used in CC's have been LH (standard) rotation since 1989. This includes all of the HO versions that were introduced in '92 (carb), '94 (TBI) and '95 (MPEFI GT40), as well as the standard (non-HO) versions.