Siezed GT40

While the boat was filled with water from time to time, the previous owner would stop by every couple of weeks and empty it out either with the bilge pump, or a hand pump. It was not submerged for extremely long periods of time (or so he said). The starter was not salvageable, so we had to purchase a new one. The steering cable is actually just fine! Steers pretty smoothly. All other vitals seem to be okay. I'm about to go out and reinstall the starter and see what she'll do. Before I do that, I'll test the pumps like you said. I think the engine had a pre existing condition that caused it to run rough and die, which is why he put it in storage. Because that was going to fix it, somehow? .. some people's logic is quite interesting. Anyways, I will update you as soon as I get everything put back together. Thanks so much for the informative replies! Jake

slmskrs wrote: Oh, on the starter, make sure you get one with the correct rotation! I doubt you can salvage it.

Gordon,
There is a good chance he can salvage the starter. Tearing it down and then a good clean up especially the armature commutator should do it. I'd suggest new brushes, checking the axial play on the bushings and making sure the Bendix is free should do it.

I had a oilless compressor for my boathouse aeration go under water when the ice took out the cribbing. It was under for better than 2 months. I took it apart, cleaned it up, put it back together and plugged it in!

The varnish used to insulate the the windings of any electric motor is not affected by water.

AMB wrote: If by chance you determine the engine is bad, there is always: http://www.ski-it-again.com/php/skiitagain.php?topic=Search&category=Parts_Engine&postid=18032 If you had water sitting in the boat, the steering cable could have been compromised. How does the steering wheel turn? The blower motor is down there too..

Link for Al

If by chance you determine the engine is bad, there is always:

http://www.ski-it-again.com/php/skiitagain.php?topic=Search&category=Parts_Engine&postid=18032

If you had water sitting in the boat, the steering cable could have been compromised. How does the steering wheel turn? The blower motor is down there too..

Silver15 wrote: , but on the chance that it may run how it is, I'll see what I can do. Yes, we hooked the battery up the other day for the first time. The low pressure pump on the bottom side of the engine near the canister filter thing buzzed to life for several seconds. I didn't hear the other pump, but then again I wasn't listening for it... and maybe it's not audible anyways. It did not exactly sound healthy, but maybe it's okay? I did have pressure at the rails, so that's a good sign I guess. Jake

I'd try to get it to run too.      

On the pumps, both pumps are on the same circuit. When you turn the key to on (not start), the ECC will flip the pump relay and both pumps will run for about a second. If it doesn't sense the engine running (or cranking), it turns the pumps off. Since both pumps are on the same circuit, you can test each one. First, unplug the high pressure pump (inside the FCC) and power the pump circuit. You can jump a pin from the tester port to ground and that will make the pump circuit stay on when the key is on. This way, you can keep the pumps running. A quick test of the low pressure pump (assuming you've put new fuel in the tank) is to turn the pump on (with the engine off). The fuel flows from the tank to the pump, then to the FCC. The excess flows back into the tank, so if it is working, you will hear fuel splashing back into the tank from the return hose.

As for the high pressure pump, the proof is in the PSI at the rail, so it sounds good so far. If you unplug the low pressure pump and run the pump circuit, you should hear the high pressure pump (you can feel the vibration if you hold the FCC with it running).

Key to these tests are jumping the tester port pin so the pumps keep running with the engine off so you can hear.

Pete, what is the problem with a deep cycle?(other than the fact that it probably wouldn't fit in the battery compartment... Gordon, yes, a good amount of equipment was submerged. I am fully anticipating needing an engine rebuild, but on the chance that it may run how it is, I'll see what I can do. Yes, we hooked the battery up the other day for the first time. The low pressure pump on the bottom side of the engine near the canister filter thing buzzed to life for several seconds. I didn't hear the other pump, but then again I wasn't listening for it... and maybe it's not audible anyways. It did not exactly sound healthy, but maybe it's okay? I did have pressure at the rails, so that's a good sign I guess. The water level did reach the bottom of the electronic computer on the backside of the engine, but like I said...maybe we'll get lucky and it will be unscathed. As for the transmission, the fill cap had a good seal, the shaft spins freely, and the fluid was bright and red with no visible signs of water intrusion. We won't know until we put it in gear, I guess. Are there any major items that we should check before re-installing the starter and trying to crank? We will check spark and comp. as soon as we get the chance.
Jake

Your low pressure fuel pump was under water. Don't know if it will still be okay or not since I don't know if it is hermetically sealed. As for the electronics, hopefully the relays, ECC, etc. were above the water line.

When you are ready, when you turn the key to the on position (not start), both fuel pumps (low pressure and the high pressure (the one in the FCC) should turn on for about one second, and then turn off. That will tell you two things: 1. the pumps are getting power, and 2. the ECC is turing the pumps off after one second (which they do if the engine is not running or the starter is not engaged). If you turn the key and you don't hear the pumps turn on and then off, you've got electrical issues or an ECC issue.


What about the transmission? That was under water, so I suspect there is going to be an issue there as well

As Pete said, just keep moving forward and take it one thing at a time. There are a good number of GT40 owners on the forum.

FREE!! She broke loose and turns free! Seems like the Coca Cola and PB blaster mixture actually did the trick. Yes, we actually started loosening the nose bolt by accident. A combination of my dad with a crow bar against the flywheel teeth and me cranking on the nose bolt broke it loose. Now to get the starter rebuilt. We drained some of the oil off of the bottom and it wasn't bad. Also, when I pressed the shrader valve on the fuel rail, there was pressure! We emptied all of the bad fuel out of the tank and we're going to flush out the rails when we get a new battery in it. Is there anything else we should do before we install the new starter and start trying to get it running? (assuming it still has enough compression) I'm not familiar with the EFI engines in regards to electronic components. Thanks!
Jake

Jake,
I know you said you checked the oil and it didn't look "milky". However, if water did somehow seep in, oil having a SG lighter than water, the water would be at the bottom of the pan. It takes running the engine with the water to get it to mix and turn the oil milky. Have you drained the oil yet?

The ATF/acetone mix is sure better than that PB junk. Didn't you see the torque specs in my previous post? Buying the PB sure is proof that "Madison Avenue" advertising sure can con many people!

Don't go wild with the breaker bar or whatever to get the engine to turn. Just as Jody mentioned, there are limits that could lead to problems.

Thanks for replies. We have had it soaking in PB blaster (similar to Kroil) and a few other things. Still no movement. Do you guys believe that an ATF/acetone mixture could free her up? I haven't decided what direction to go. I heard that a brand new GT40 retails at about $4,900. Considering that option. I really don't have the time to deal with this right now; I'm very preoccupied with my other project (1966 Barracuda). Another idea I had would be to find someone who will go through it, and call me when he has it running right. Would any of you experts on here be interested or know anyone who is trustworthy and knowledgable enough to get it running right? Time isn't a huge factor... we have plenty of other boats to play with for the time being. It would be great to get her back in good running shape, though.
Jake

Gary S wrote: I wonder if you have a greater chance of liver damage at a reunion than breathing acetone

Good one Gary, I think that statement couldn't be more true.

"Forget about the Apple-Pie Moonshine just load up the shot ski with Acetone"

Fl Inboards wrote: All this shade tree advice is rather amusing.

Agreed, but I didn't balk at a $40 tool. My line of thinking was based on where he said the water rose to.

If it sat without a doghouse and carb, then ...

All this shade tree advice is rather amusing.
Their is a reason the motor is locked up. Rings have welded them selves to the cylinder walls. cylinder bores are rusted up and rings have been compromised, all this provided the cause is water intrusion into the cylinder's. If it can be made to turn freely by penetrating fluids breaker bars or whatever what kind of cylinder pressures are going to be expected? What kind of compression is it going to have, how well will the motor run? This list can go on and on. Utilizing a breaker bar could bend a rod or cause other damage in the long run.
Best idea is to pull the motor down address the problems and reassemble. Machining and materials provided the motor is not hurt should run less than $1000.00. But then again get that big breaker bar out and overall costs could run much higher!

Good luck!

KRoundy wrote: BuffaloBFN wrote: That crank bolt has its limits. A crankshaft socket is a cool tool to have; even more so on a RH engine. I filtered(Summit) ford/5.8-351/small blk windsor so double check the part app; and guys...why do they list a 5.8-352? Hmmm... another tool that I need to own...

Maybe you can find one you can borrow? You won't use it very often, but the $20-40 will seem cheap if the nose bolt gives.

Another trick is to remove the balancer pulley and put 3" bolts in the balancer. You can then use a box end wrench over one bolt and lever against the next.

I wonder if you have a greater chance of liver damage at a reunion than breathing acetone