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waker319 ![]() Groupie ![]() Joined: March-24-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 78 |
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waker319 ![]() Groupie ![]() Joined: March-24-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 78 |
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Bri892001 ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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Pete, Tim,
I was thinking about the pulley alignment problem. I realize that if the set screw is rotated 180 degrees, you'll wind up not pumping the correct way. And, this set screw is in the impeller half of the pump body, correct? What would happen if the pulley half of the body was accidentally rotated 180 degrees. It would still pump in the correct direction, right? However, it's the pulley half of the body that mounts to the brackets correct? And, there is only two bolts, right? Are these two mounting bolts on the same horizontal plain or different? I'm thinking if the pulley half were inadvertently rotated, the pump would still pump the right direction, but the mounting would be all buggered if the two bolts are on different horizontal planes. |
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Brian,
If the sheave/bearing housing was rotated 180, you would still have one mounting hole with stripped threads. Ether repair it with with an insert or if there is enough depth to the housing boss, tap it deeper for a longer bolt. Hopefully as mentioned, the housing isn't cracked. BTW, since the one hole is stripped, I'd be looking real close at the other one too. If you do work to the bad one, it probably would not hurt to do the same to the other one! |
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Bri892001 ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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Good point Pete.
I wasn't sure if the stripped out hole (and the inability to tighten) was the only thing keeping it misaligned. Leo, if you could pull it tight, do you think it would line up? |
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waker319 ![]() Groupie ![]() Joined: March-24-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 78 |
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GlassSeeker ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: November-26-2008 Location: Elk Grove, CA. Status: Offline Points: 2421 |
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I'd say none came from the factory misaligned.
Only takes 5 minutes or so to reach operating temp, it should go to 140+...but not 200. You're in California/Monterey Bay why are you winterizing your boat at all? just askin. I'm in Sacramento never ever winterized a boat. Use it year round. Hard freeze for 24 hours is super rare here unless you are in the Sierra. Sounds like that shutting down is another problem. Where was the temp then? Somethin's still up. |
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Whether it did or did not come from the factory with a alignment problem is not an issue. You need to get the RWP and it's sheave aligned. You should take a straight edge long enough to go from the outside edge of the drive sheave to the outside edge of the driven sheave. When aligned, all four faces of the two sheave should be touching the straight edge. |
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waker319 ![]() Groupie ![]() Joined: March-24-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 78 |
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Bri892001 ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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Or it might just be normal operation. Do you have a carb on this boat? If so, the choke opening should roughly correlate with the motor getting up to 160 (and 160 is actually about where a 143 degree stat should put you) but they're not connected. So, the choke could be opening a bit before it's fully warm, and the motor will lean out. Or, it could be staying closed a little too long and it's choking itself out. So, it could be that the engine is not all the way warm, and/or the choke is not all the way open. If it runs fine once it's warmed up, it should be fine. They should be allowed to warm up a bit before running hard anyway. |
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FUN-9C1 ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: January-29-2004 Location: Lakes Region NH Status: Offline Points: 206 |
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Just a thought- our gauges have a reputation for being off due to poor grounding, and the temp would read higher the poorer the ground. Maybe it's REALLY 140° and it's reading high?
I hate fake-a-lakes as much as pete hates RTV. It takes one or two minutes more to do it right- a hose into a bucket and the RWP sucking from the bucket. That way you KNOW that the water coming out of the exhaust is there beccause your system is pumping it, not from your hose's water pressure, and you know your motor's getting enough water when you rev it up, AND you know the fake-a-lake isn't going to fall over. Take the extra one or two minutes and use a bucket. |
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'86 2001
'50 Century Imperial Sportsman |
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Rob, This really isn't the case. The ground for a fuel, oil pressure and temp gauge is via the sender to the block (or the tank). The more the resistance, the lower the gauge reads. This is why the basic test for a gauge is to remove the sender wire and ground it. There is then no resistance and the gauge pegs to max - or the opposite would be a low gauge reading with a poor ground. The ground wire to the back of the gauge is for the light. It has nothing to so with the gauge itself. |
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FUN-9C1 ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: January-29-2004 Location: Lakes Region NH Status: Offline Points: 206 |
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I stand corrected. I haven't quite tackled that ground issue on mine yet, and when I turn the lights or blower on, my temp jumps up higher. I made a bad assumption that since ther cure for that is to fix the ground, that there's less "ground" going to the temp when other stuff is on.
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'86 2001
'50 Century Imperial Sportsman |
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