1969 Mustang Stringer Rebuild |
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TRBenj ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21218 |
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I dont believe the manifold style (log vs. pyramid) makes much difference in volume- but the manifold material does seem to have an effect. Aluminum or SS manifolds tend to be louder than cast iron. |
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MAN - GA ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: July-09-2009 Location: Cumming, GA Status: Offline Points: 298 |
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For what its worth my 75 Mustang has 3" copper tubes and it sounds great - just curious if log or riser style is louder?
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Bruce, Yes, I have and feel it was the mid 60's when they were switching over to all rubber. |
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TRBenj ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21218 |
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CC used it in the 70's from what I understand. Tom Lawton had copper pipes in his '76 Ski Tique. |
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Riley ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7966 |
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If they were using copper, I would guess it was early 60's and earlier. Has anyone ever seen copper piping that was original?
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TRBenj ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21218 |
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Good info, Gary. Im curious what years CC was putting copper in the exhausts- my sister's boat didnt have any copper either, just 2-1/4" hose. With all the volume the H-M's put out, I would have thought there was some metal in the exhaust... I guess the 3" and aluminum manifolds are enough! That also explains why it seems like her '69 is so loud now. |
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Gary S ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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[QUOTE=TRBenj] I would have expected a '69 H-M to have some copper in the exhaust as well.
QUOTE] Mine just had molded 90's at the manifolds and straight hose out the rest of the way |
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81nautique ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-03-2005 Location: Big Rock, Il Status: Offline Points: 5817 |
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I bought some used mufflers for my 81, currently aluminum edelbrocks to stainless out the back. When I fired it up in the driveway this weekend I put the mufflers back in the garage...I just can't put them on yet!!
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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails
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WakeSlayer ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: March-15-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2138 |
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Reid's Skier is freaking awesome.
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Mike N
1968 Mustang |
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TRBenj ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21218 |
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Vondy's? Very possibly. My '71 Skier still has the original corrugated hose on it. I would have expected a '69 H-M to have some copper in the exhaust as well. Gary, I havent spent a *ton* of time in H-M boats, but Ive spent some. A lot of time spent listening from shore, too- there was a '70 H-M on our lake that had to have 10,000 hrs on it. It was *almost* the loudest ski boat Ive experienced... Id say Reid's '73 takes the cake, but my sister's Stang with the aluminum Interceptor logs exiting to 3" out the back with a healthy stretch of copper is pretty close too. My '90 isnt exactly quiet either: ![]() ^^This one will get mufflers before long though^^. Im curious to hear how loud the BFN will be with aluminum manifolds and 4" all the way back- Im hoping its bearable. |
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TX Wind ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: March-29-2011 Location: near Dallas Status: Offline Points: 335 |
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I have tremendous respect for what you do and what you know Tim. That BFN is the bomb. Didn't this boat come with corrugated anyway? |
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TX Wind ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: March-29-2011 Location: near Dallas Status: Offline Points: 335 |
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Well...If you really wanted to keep the mufflers, you could put a slight angle to the floor under the seat and then pull it out with the seat base. Getting some glass over the stringers should move you a bit closer to the edge of the seat before it hits the mufflers. It might not be that bad in the end.
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vondy ![]() Platinum Member ![]() ![]() Joined: November-29-2007 Location: Dallas, Texas Status: Offline Points: 1116 |
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I have to second Gary, this thing is pretty loud with what its got. I assume they are glasspacks.
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Gary S ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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"No worries on the muffler comments... my track record speaks for itself". Big talk from you guys who have never spent some time in a HM powered boat ![]() ![]() |
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vondy ![]() Platinum Member ![]() ![]() Joined: November-29-2007 Location: Dallas, Texas Status: Offline Points: 1116 |
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Looks like another project to add to the list.
![]() Thanks for the recommendations, Jeff thanks for your references. I'll have more questions once I actually dig into this part. |
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TRBenj ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21218 |
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The manifolds exit slightly less than vertically (towards the front due to the engine angle) so he's need a 90 in there if he were to use soft walled hose. We got the corrugated over the copper on my sister's Stang though- just takes a little muscle. |
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TX Wind ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: March-29-2011 Location: near Dallas Status: Offline Points: 335 |
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Excellent point on the kinking Tim. The silicone kinks very easily by the way. If he uses copper, he could braze a 45 in there easy enough or even a 22 1/2 or 30 if necessary. Shhhhh....I thought there was a rule on here against advocating for mufflers....especially on a boat that didn't come with them. |
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TX Wind ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: March-29-2011 Location: near Dallas Status: Offline Points: 335 |
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I can get the wire hose here for about $12 a foot. It can be had through the internet for as cheap as $9. It's the non wire hose that usually costs me in the $16 range. Go figure, but it's actually rated higher. |
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TX Wind ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: March-29-2011 Location: near Dallas Status: Offline Points: 335 |
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You are correct Pete. Soft copper is also available in those wall thicknesses. I'm speaking from a local perspective because in this state, typically type "M" and "L" are used in soft applications. Type "K", although commonly used in refrigeration, is usually the preferred spec. for commercial piping applications inside a building here. Many times, that will be the way the local supplies run their inventory. So if he goes in and asks for Type "M" they may very well sell him soft copper in a complete roll. Talk about a PITA. It takes a couple of guys to unravel that crap. In the end, he can probably acquire the Type "K" hard for less money and with less frustration.
David and I only live about 45 minutes apart, so I'm speaking from local experience. I used to do the commercial takeoffs and estimates for my brothers when we had a commercial plumbing business together. I also personally held a Journeyman plumbing license at one point in my career. LOL...it's a subject for which I am not so proud to say, I have learned the hard way. Boy were they mad to see a roll of big soft copper show up instead of hard copper. They made me come help unravel it and I never made the mistake again. |
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Jeff,
Hard copper is available in 3 wall thickness's and designated as K, L and M. K being the thickest and M the thinest. Type K is usually used for refrigeration. |
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TRBenj ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21218 |
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If you can find copper, great- it sure looks cool and sounds great. I cant imagine SS really sounds any different though. And its going to be cheaper too. Plus, since its tubing and not pipe, its measured by OD and will match the ID of the hose perfectly.
If you do decide to go with copper, dont worry about getting exhaust hose over it- it can be done. If you have to make any bends (like going from vertical out of the H-M snails to horizontal in the bilge) then I would highly recommend using corrugated hose. Anything else will kink, especially if its thinner and not reinforced. |
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WakeSlayer ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: March-15-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2138 |
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$20 per foot isn't really that much more. I think I paid $16+ a foot for the seriously PITA wire hose. I want to say mine was 2.5" in the 68, but do verify your diameter cause they ain't taking back pre-cut hose.
And yeah, lose the mufflers. |
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Mike N
1968 Mustang |
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TX Wind ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: March-29-2011 Location: near Dallas Status: Offline Points: 335 |
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David,
Mufflers are for wussies. Sell them. They will probably bring a hundred bucks for the pair. Pete, I could be wrong but I do believe the big copper like that is usually type "K" and is suitable for more than just DWV. Type M is usually soft copper and prob. more expensive. David, you can buy silicone 3" hose at 4 Star Hose Supply. They are located up around Harry Hines. It runs about $20 a foot. E-basic power or Jamestown Distributors may also have a good deal on the stuff. Silicone exhaust hose is much more flexible than the wire hose although much more expensive. It is also thinner walled with a higher heat rating. If you do have to go with the copper tubing, use the silicone hose to make connections and it should go much much easier than with the wire hose which is a PITA. Also, the type "K" copper is thicker than the type "M" soft but has the same O.D. If you go copper, get the type "K" and bevel it as much as possible. Pack the tubing in ice and heat the hose. Should help a great deal. If it were me....I'd buy stainless. Probably close to even money there anyway. And remember, mufflers are for girls. The boat is loud anyway. So if you're gonna be a bear be a grizzly |
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TRBenj ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21218 |
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If theyre fiberglass, Im betting theyre mufflers that a previous owner added. Take a look down them and see if you can see daylight. If not, there are baffles. They dont do a ton to knock down the noise- but they help a little. If you were to replace them with hose or tubing, the diameter would likely be decreased enough to get that seat base forward of the spot where they contact the floor. Just a thought.
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vondy ![]() Platinum Member ![]() ![]() Joined: November-29-2007 Location: Dallas, Texas Status: Offline Points: 1116 |
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As far as I know they are just fiberglass tubes. If there are mufflers in there they don't do much. I sure would not want it any louder.
My seat base is just short of covering it. Might could route out some of the ply floor bottom like Pete suggested. Going to make the removable panel span the exhaust. |
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TRBenj ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21218 |
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Vondy, what the heck do you have in there now? I would have guessed they were mufflers. They sure dont look original, either way. Original would have either been copper or straight hose- I cant tell exactly what Im looking at there. My sister had the same problem when she replaced the exhaust hoses in her '69. The removeable panel sat on the hoses/copper, just like yours wants to. Not sure why CC put the tips so far up. Luckily, the fiberglass seat base extended far enough forward so that you dont put any weight on the removeable panel in the section where its sitting on the exhaust. Do you still have the original rear seat pieces? Another option would be to raise the floor towards the rear by making your stringers a bit taller. Then everything might tuck underneath. How are you handling the rear removeable panel? |
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WakeSlayer ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: March-15-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2138 |
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Gary, that is a Morse 2. Those are reversible.
Pete, I am going to make room to bring a Moose Drool just in case, but I have a feeling you are going to need to find an LQ that stocks in WI. ![]() |
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Mike N
1968 Mustang |
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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The only problem with copper is it's sized by the ID so the OD will actually be 1/8" over. IE: on 2&1/2" the OD will be 2&5/8" - 3" will be 3&1/8". It can be a PITA to get the hose on. If you do find the copper, in those larger sizes, it will be type "M" and used for DWV.
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TX Wind ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: March-29-2011 Location: near Dallas Status: Offline Points: 335 |
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David,
Let me know what you come up with. My brothers are Master licensed plumbers. I may be able to get you a break on the copper pipe. |
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Gary S ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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I reversed mine but I think my control is different than Mike's
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