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1969 Mustang Stringer Rebuild

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-10-2011 at 2:15pm
Originally posted by MAN - GA MAN - GA wrote:

For what its worth my 75 Mustang has 3" copper tubes and it sounds great - just curious if log or riser style is louder?

I dont believe the manifold style (log vs. pyramid) makes much difference in volume- but the manifold material does seem to have an effect. Aluminum or SS manifolds tend to be louder than cast iron.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MAN - GA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-10-2011 at 2:07pm
For what its worth my 75 Mustang has 3" copper tubes and it sounds great - just curious if log or riser style is louder?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-10-2011 at 12:53pm
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

If they were using copper, I would guess it was early 60's and earlier. Has anyone ever seen copper piping that was original?

Bruce,
Yes, I have and feel it was the mid 60's when they were switching over to all rubber.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-10-2011 at 12:51pm
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

If they were using copper, I would guess it was early 60's and earlier. Has anyone ever seen copper piping that was original?

CC used it in the 70's from what I understand. Tom Lawton had copper pipes in his '76 Ski Tique.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-10-2011 at 12:41pm
If they were using copper, I would guess it was early 60's and earlier. Has anyone ever seen copper piping that was original?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-10-2011 at 12:15pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

I would have expected a '69 H-M to have some copper in the exhaust as well.


Mine just had molded 90's at the manifolds and straight hose out the rest of the way

Good info, Gary. Im curious what years CC was putting copper in the exhausts- my sister's boat didnt have any copper either, just 2-1/4" hose. With all the volume the H-M's put out, I would have thought there was some metal in the exhaust... I guess the 3" and aluminum manifolds are enough! That also explains why it seems like her '69 is so loud now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-10-2011 at 12:01pm
[QUOTE=TRBenj] I would have expected a '69 H-M to have some copper in the exhaust as well.
QUOTE]

Mine just had molded 90's at the manifolds and straight hose out the rest of the way
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-10-2011 at 11:49am
I bought some used mufflers for my 81, currently aluminum edelbrocks to stainless out the back. When I fired it up in the driveway this weekend I put the mufflers back in the garage...I just can't put them on yet!!
You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-10-2011 at 11:32am
Reid's Skier is freaking awesome.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-10-2011 at 10:55am
Originally posted by TX Wind TX Wind wrote:

Didn't this boat come with corrugated anyway?

Vondy's? Very possibly. My '71 Skier still has the original corrugated hose on it. I would have expected a '69 H-M to have some copper in the exhaust as well.

Gary, I havent spent a *ton* of time in H-M boats, but Ive spent some. A lot of time spent listening from shore, too- there was a '70 H-M on our lake that had to have 10,000 hrs on it. It was *almost* the loudest ski boat Ive experienced... Id say Reid's '73 takes the cake, but my sister's Stang with the aluminum Interceptor logs exiting to 3" out the back with a healthy stretch of copper is pretty close too. My '90 isnt exactly quiet either:



^^This one will get mufflers before long though^^. Im curious to hear how loud the BFN will be with aluminum manifolds and 4" all the way back- Im hoping its bearable.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Wind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-10-2011 at 4:23am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by TX Wind TX Wind wrote:

Excellent point on the kinking Tim. The silicone kinks very easily by the way. If he uses copper, he could braze a 45 in there easy enough or even a 22 1/2 or 30 if necessary.

Shhhhh....I thought there was a rule on here against advocating for mufflers....especially on a boat that didn't come with them.

The manifolds exit slightly less than vertically (towards the front due to the engine angle) so he's need a 90 in there if he were to use soft walled hose. We got the corrugated over the copper on my sister's Stang though- just takes a little muscle.

No worries on the muffler comments... my track record speaks for itself.


I have tremendous respect for what you do and what you know Tim. That BFN is the bomb.


Didn't this boat come with corrugated anyway?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Wind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-10-2011 at 4:21am
Well...If you really wanted to keep the mufflers, you could put a slight angle to the floor under the seat and then pull it out with the seat base. Getting some glass over the stringers should move you a bit closer to the edge of the seat before it hits the mufflers. It might not be that bad in the end.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vondy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-10-2011 at 3:14am
I have to second Gary, this thing is pretty loud with what its got. I assume they are glasspacks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 9:33pm

"No worries on the muffler comments... my track record speaks for itself".

Big talk from you guys who have never spent some time in a HM powered boat    When your sittin on the doc with blood dripping out your ears,then I'll listen to you. Won't hear you but I'll pretend I do. Ask John or Eddie how mine sounds with mufflers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vondy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 8:27pm
Looks like another project to add to the list.

Thanks for the recommendations, Jeff thanks for your references.

I'll have more questions once I actually dig into this part.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 6:35pm
Originally posted by TX Wind TX Wind wrote:

Excellent point on the kinking Tim. The silicone kinks very easily by the way. If he uses copper, he could braze a 45 in there easy enough or even a 22 1/2 or 30 if necessary.



Shhhhh....I thought there was a rule on here against advocating for mufflers....especially on a boat that didn't come with them.


The manifolds exit slightly less than vertically (towards the front due to the engine angle) so he's need a 90 in there if he were to use soft walled hose. We got the corrugated over the copper on my sister's Stang though- just takes a little muscle.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Wind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 6:21pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

If you can find copper, great- it sure looks cool and sounds great. I cant imagine SS really sounds any different though. And its going to be cheaper too. Plus, since its tubing and not pipe, its measured by OD and will match the ID of the hose perfectly. That would be the easy choice if you decide to ditch the mufflers. I can understand both sides of the muffler argument, by the way... Ive removed mufflers from more than one boat, and will be adding some to a boat that didnt have them originally. Thats a personal call.

If you do decide to go with copper, dont worry about getting exhaust hose over it- it can be done. If you have to make any bends (like going from vertical out of the H-M snails to horizontal in the bilge) then I would highly recommend using corrugated hose. Anything else will kink, especially if its thinner and not reinforced.


Excellent point on the kinking Tim. The silicone kinks very easily by the way. If he uses copper, he could braze a 45 in there easy enough or even a 22 1/2 or 30 if necessary.

Shhhhh....I thought there was a rule on here against advocating for mufflers....especially on a boat that didn't come with them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Wind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 6:16pm
Originally posted by WakeSlayer WakeSlayer wrote:

$20 per foot isn't really that much more. I think I paid $16+ a foot for the seriously PITA wire hose. I want to say mine was 2.5" in the 68, but do verify your diameter cause they ain't taking back pre-cut hose.
And yeah, lose the mufflers.


I can get the wire hose here for about $12 a foot. It can be had through the internet for as cheap as $9. It's the non wire hose that usually costs me in the $16 range. Go figure, but it's actually rated higher.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Wind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 6:06pm
You are correct Pete. Soft copper is also available in those wall thicknesses. I'm speaking from a local perspective because in this state, typically type "M" and "L" are used in soft applications. Type "K", although commonly used in refrigeration, is usually the preferred spec. for commercial piping applications inside a building here. Many times, that will be the way the local supplies run their inventory. So if he goes in and asks for Type "M" they may very well sell him soft copper in a complete roll. Talk about a PITA. It takes a couple of guys to unravel that crap. In the end, he can probably acquire the Type "K" hard for less money and with less frustration.

David and I only live about 45 minutes apart, so I'm speaking from local experience. I used to do the commercial takeoffs and estimates for my brothers when we had a commercial plumbing business together. I also personally held a Journeyman plumbing license at one point in my career. LOL...it's a subject for which I am not so proud to say, I have learned the hard way. Boy were they mad to see a roll of big soft copper show up instead of hard copper. They made me come help unravel it and I never made the mistake again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 5:46pm
Jeff,
Hard copper is available in 3 wall thickness's and designated as K, L and M. K being the thickest and M the thinest. Type K is usually used for refrigeration.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 5:44pm
If you can find copper, great- it sure looks cool and sounds great. I cant imagine SS really sounds any different though. And its going to be cheaper too. Plus, since its tubing and not pipe, its measured by OD and will match the ID of the hose perfectly.

If you do decide to go with copper, dont worry about getting exhaust hose over it- it can be done. If you have to make any bends (like going from vertical out of the H-M snails to horizontal in the bilge) then I would highly recommend using corrugated hose. Anything else will kink, especially if its thinner and not reinforced.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 5:36pm
$20 per foot isn't really that much more. I think I paid $16+ a foot for the seriously PITA wire hose. I want to say mine was 2.5" in the 68, but do verify your diameter cause they ain't taking back pre-cut hose.
And yeah, lose the mufflers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Wind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 5:32pm
David,

Mufflers are for wussies. Sell them. They will probably bring a hundred bucks for the pair.

Pete, I could be wrong but I do believe the big copper like that is usually type "K" and is suitable for more than just DWV. Type M is usually soft copper and prob. more expensive.

David, you can buy silicone 3" hose at 4 Star Hose Supply. They are located up around Harry Hines. It runs about $20 a foot. E-basic power or Jamestown Distributors may also have a good deal on the stuff. Silicone exhaust hose is much more flexible than the wire hose although much more expensive. It is also thinner walled with a higher heat rating. If you do have to go with the copper tubing, use the silicone hose to make connections and it should go much much easier than with the wire hose which is a PITA.

Also, the type "K" copper is thicker than the type "M" soft but has the same O.D. If you go copper, get the type "K" and bevel it as much as possible. Pack the tubing in ice and heat the hose. Should help a great deal.

If it were me....I'd buy stainless. Probably close to even money there anyway. And remember, mufflers are for girls. The boat is loud anyway. So if you're gonna be a bear be a grizzly
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 3:03pm
If theyre fiberglass, Im betting theyre mufflers that a previous owner added. Take a look down them and see if you can see daylight. If not, there are baffles. They dont do a ton to knock down the noise- but they help a little. If you were to replace them with hose or tubing, the diameter would likely be decreased enough to get that seat base forward of the spot where they contact the floor. Just a thought.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vondy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 2:59pm
As far as I know they are just fiberglass tubes. If there are mufflers in there they don't do much. I sure would not want it any louder.

My seat base is just short of covering it. Might could route out some of the ply floor bottom like Pete suggested. Going to make the removable panel span the exhaust.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 1:54pm
Originally posted by vondy vondy wrote:

No mufflers.

Vondy, what the heck do you have in there now? I would have guessed they were mufflers. They sure dont look original, either way. Original would have either been copper or straight hose- I cant tell exactly what Im looking at there.

My sister had the same problem when she replaced the exhaust hoses in her '69. The removeable panel sat on the hoses/copper, just like yours wants to. Not sure why CC put the tips so far up. Luckily, the fiberglass seat base extended far enough forward so that you dont put any weight on the removeable panel in the section where its sitting on the exhaust. Do you still have the original rear seat pieces?

Another option would be to raise the floor towards the rear by making your stringers a bit taller. Then everything might tuck underneath. How are you handling the rear removeable panel?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 1:44pm
Gary,   that is a Morse 2. Those are reversible.

Pete, I am going to make room to bring a Moose Drool just in case, but I have a feeling you are going to need to find an LQ that stocks in WI.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 8:32am
The only problem with copper is it's sized by the ID so the OD will actually be 1/8" over. IE: on 2&1/2" the OD will be 2&5/8" - 3" will be 3&1/8". It can be a PITA to get the hose on. If you do find the copper, in those larger sizes, it will be type "M" and used for DWV.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Wind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2011 at 3:13am
David,

Let me know what you come up with. My brothers are Master licensed plumbers. I may be able to get you a break on the copper pipe.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-08-2011 at 11:05pm
I reversed mine but I think my control is different than Mike's

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