2001v-drive

storm34 wrote: Thanks Steve, whats the benefit of marine ply over regular coated with epoxy?

I'm pretty sure marine has more plys.

I would cut to fit and spend lots of time soaking it in CPES before you install it.

In that spot where the cables go out I would put one of the access panels (the ones that are installed over the shaft log) where the cables make the bend in between the secondary and main stringer.


Tim

storm34 wrote: Ryan, I may be wrong but I think you want regular ply coated in epoxy instead of marine ply. If its treated the epoxy won't stick to the ply. My Skier is regular untreated 1/2" ply coated in epoxy and is very stout. My floor is also removable. Came that way from CC.

Chris, If he bought true marine plywood, I think he is ok. You might be thinking of treated plywood...that you dont want. Marine ply has different specs as to the voids allowed, etc,

I purchased half inch marine plywood,do you guys think that will be sturdy enough?What method of mounting the plywood is the best?I know it has to be glassed to the wall.Should I screw it in and glass it?Should I make it removable?I thought about having the boat sent to a bedliner shop to have the floor sprayed and then make a removable carpet but bedliner is nothing to take lightly if it ever has to come off.

form&function wrote:

I would put in PVC pipe for conduit and run the cables through there. Make sure there is also enough room for two 1" hoses to fit so you can add a heater in the future.

Tim

He is making a v-drive, he has to make a new one anyway.

Ryan, interesting run for the wires and cables. Curious as to why you don't just run them down the middle? Easier access for replacements like steering and such.

If you look very close you can see that the floor sinks towards the center a quarter inch for proper drainage.

Keep on keepin on till its done

Eagerly watching...

That framing looks really stout!

Hey Joe,
I didn't think your hull was any more noisy than mine (stock).

Exhaust was a different story

storm34 wrote: Looks good Ryan, I agree with the engine cradle. Where is your bulhead going to be? I'm guessing your going to put the tank in between the stringers up in the bow. You think you'll have enough room to put another tank to use as ballast under the mains?

Chris,my design so far has two bulkheads with fuel in the center and ballast under the bow.As far as the cradle I plan to reuse the factory one.

Fl Inboards wrote: I have a 84 2001 and am getting some ideas!! Blown BBC, lenco and a 12 degree Casale V-drive!! Worlds fastest Ski Nautique,, Funny stuff!!

There was a guy on the v drive forum that built a drag boat out of a ski boat.When he would hammer on it the boat would jump out of the water and cavitate because skiboat propshafts have steep angles.Ten plus I think.

form&function wrote: I also don't know how to deal with the blank spaces between the wood seeing there will be zero foam in my boat.

Here is how I did it, although I did have some foam from the front bulkhead onward, several have used plywood floors, some with foam some without. I went a little overkill with the support spacing but my boat is rock solid going down the lake and the floor has zero flex.

Floor with no foam

I think I will go over it once more just to be safe but my main concern is the engine stringers.I have a plan for the mains that consist of several braces you can't get away with on a direct drive.I also don't know how to deal with the blank spaces between the wood seeing there will be zero foam in my boat.

form&function wrote: I started by beding with long strand fiber and then locked it in with one coat of woven up the sides.I then went back and put another coat of woven encasing the entire stringer.Still looks thin to me, [

Since you ask... sounds a little thin to me as well. What is the weight of that cloth?. Your changing the whole loading of that boat when you move the engine I wouldnt be afraid to throw a couple extra layers of cloth at it. For the "interlocking supports" I would be less worried. I set mine in with 2inch, 4inch, and then 8 inch type, no bedding and only three layers, however on the 4 stringers I go with a minimum 2,2,4,4,8,8,full layer 10oz cloth, fully layer epoxy mat. Areas with more stress or with no floor on top got an addition layer (s) of the 10oz cloth oriented 45 degrees from the first and then a cap of epoxy matt over the top that extends up to 6 inches over the floor.

It takes a lot of woven cloth to build any thickness, and I do know the factory didnt always use the best materials or techniques but you will pull off areas of glass with considerable thickness, equal to a dozen layers of woven cloth or more. Also you doubled the thickness of the side stringer in the front where the v of the boat is taking more of the load but but cut it in half in the center of the boat where it is flatest, where the old motor load was and where the main stringers were cut down to allow engine installation. I dont think it is a big deal as long as you adjust your main stringers appropriately...