No Super Sucker needed

Dan,
It's still sitting on the garage floor hooked up to the engine hoist. One of these days I need to push it out into the driveway and give it a few cranks!!!

Dan,
I just received a very rare, very small NOS Zenith flame arrestor I found on ebay. Due to the carb not being a newer design (came out after WWII) with the throat that tilts upward, I felt it was a good idea to put the arrestor on. (even with the upturned throat) The throat that tilts upward, keeps any extra fuel that may be present say from a stuck needle and seat hopefully in the carb and not dribbling down into the bilge. I'm in the process of machining up a adapter to fit the arrestor to the carb. When done, I'll feel safer of giving that thing some cranks!! (fire extinguisher within view!! )

I'm anxious too!!

Very Nice !   Great read... Nice to see the detail put into bring back this classic. Back about 83 we took 5 truck loads of 50's and 60's marine engines to the dump mostly outboards but lots of history lost.

My Grand father was I believe the first boat dealer in our area (post war). He is 87 and getting profficient with the computer. I'm going to try to get him to check this out.

so did you get this thing to start??

Pete, when I was a kid, 14 or so, i took a huskavarna snowmobile engine and mounted it on a tractor, it was direct drive, but the spark plug was located right in front of the seat by the family jewels, and you got it.....i did get zapped, i will never forget that...(the direct drive did not work very well) but it worked

but anyways I was referring to your plastic line not the switch

Great work Pete,when its running please post a UTube clip,just watch your self when starting if its like the Vintage engines here if it kicks back on you, your arm or hand will know about it.

eric lavine wrote: actually period correct, was there a requirement?

Thanks Eric. I thought the knife switch was a good choice too. Requirement? Well, yes! How else would you stop the engine? I thought about a flat piece of spring steel under the base bent up so when depressed it would touch the point shunt terminal but that was too "Briggs & Stratton" for me!

I'm going to wait until I get back from the Memorial day weekend but it's ready for gas and cranking!!

Carb is on along with the crankcase vent. Now, before someone says anything about my fuel line not meeting USCG regs, it's not in a boat yet so they can't do anything!! Really and obvious it's a temporary line to get the engine going. At least I got fuel rated tubing!! Also without a fuel pump on this engine, (it's gravity feed) no high pressure line to the carb!!



I called Mainely magneto's (mag builder who did the Bosch for me) the other day basically to review with him how I set up the mag for timing (it's good) and had one other question. As sood as I asked him what the terminal on the point case cover was for, it dawned on me!! It's funny that I had completely overlooked it. It's to hook up a switched shunt to ground from the point set - To stop the engine!! Then I started thinking about what kind of switch would be appropriate for 1927. A knife switch!! Good old ebay and the second ad I looked at was a perfect size - small.

Pete I am wondering what that flexible metal house coming out of the engine near the carby is? Just crankcase ventilation or something else?

And second question is it original?

Pete it looks great and has been lots of fun following this thread. It shows your attention to detail in every thing you do.

Pete no luck on the clamps.I looked thru three drawers full and only came up with 2 both ugly and 2".
Sure looks good wish I had something to contribute.
Bob

I noticed that you didn't paint the tag. Eric can help with that.

WOW!!!! Pete...impressive work! I probably missed it along the way, but, what boat are you going to put this in?

I haven't received the carb rebuild kit yet but continued on with more small items like cutting gaskets for the carb flanged adapter.

Made the new linkage from the throttle to the carb.


I had to make a new throttle arm to get the throw longer to match the throttle.


With the carb located I could then locate the crankcase vent flex metal tubing and drill/tap the valve cover. The hole in the carbs inlet throat needs to be bored but I'll take that to work with me and set it up in one of the mills.


Mainelymagnetos forgot to send the coupling float with the mag and then sent the wrong one. It's the phenolic piece between the PTO coupling and the impulse coupling on the mag. I got the correct one so I was able to set the timing. I think I've got it correct. With the spring loaded impulse coupling it wasn't the easiest to determine when the mag fires. I marked the impulse housing at the point were it kicks over and then checked it against the point set opening. At that point I engaged the coupling just past TDC off the #1 cylinder with the distributor wiper on it's contact. At least with the manual advance/retard of what appears to be at least 30 degrees I think the timing point is quite forgiving. I'll see!!!

Gary,
That would have been cool! As a kid, I always dreamed of having one of them too!!

I did win the carb off ebay. I've also ordered a rebuild kit which actually turned out to be a couple bucks more than the carb! Now it's on to welding up the flanged adapter tube. My plans are to put a layer of Bondo on the adapter and then distress it with my needle descaler to make to "look" like a casting.

Looks really good. Patience is of the essence.