shaft, strut bushing

84bare12 wrote: Midwest told me to leave the strut on the boat and use the old shaft and try to straighten the strut,

Some of the dealers as well as Midwest have never been known for their finesse!

if it had all that load on it i sure wouldnt want a rubber bushing in there cause i dont think it would last under load, lets be realistic here, my statement was.....they really do not have alot of force on them, the back of the trans is taking all of the load straight in (axial)
If it had as much side load on it as you think, it would have a bronze bushing in it, the propeller is propelling 2500 lbs forward, AGAIN...they really do not have alot of force on them   dictionary.....they do means yes, not alot of force, means not nearly even as close to what the output bearing of the trans has in it thus we use a rubbbbbbber bushing

Ok, keep eating the popcorn! I see what the Docs buddy at General is saying. The torque of the prop is twisting the hull BUT the hull is pushing back creating the side loading on the strut. Guy's you are both right!

I'm sure going to have to do some thinking on this one. Torque on the prop shaft is a easy one and the reason our single screw hulls roll but side loading on the strut is tough. I can see large side loading on a surface drive because the prop will want to walk sideways. When the prop is submerged I'm thinking the load is a radial and would cancel itself out.The only difference with the hull on one side it may push downwards more. More thought on this will come!!!

I wish I could change the "classification" under my screen name.....
God Fearing ***************
That would sum me up.........Boat dr

The only thing platinum with me is my hair and there is not much of that...hahaha

I did not understand the pecking order here, but I guess it go like this;
Administrator...........Keith
Moderator.............Brad
Posting Police...........???????
The rest that tell the truth good or bad..............!!!!!!!!!!!

sorry I just think the Doc's been grilled enough offline as it is so no need to egg anyone on.

well I think the pop corn is going to be stail before you get to read a follow up. The point is there is a load on the strut so is there really a need to go any further? so it's best left alone.

, Chris called my buddy at General propeller today and asked him where the load was and how much "side load was applied at the strut"
Did not post as Allen would deem me being argumentative. But being you brought the subject back up ......
I try not to speak up or comment on a topic unless I have firsthand knowledge or have called and asked .
It is hard to get the smell off of comments that are pulled out of your rectal cavity.
The question was how much side load is applied to the strut????
Answer; till the boat starts moving forward , there is a high torque load on the strut. This will diminish as forward momentum starts,but there will always be a "SIDE LOAD on the strut.He estimated 350 lb./ feet times the height of the strut from centerline.
Several factors also come into play also mostly tranny gear reduction and prop dia. along with pitch.
Pete hopfully will chine in and give us some real time numbers,I am just passing info am in no way an Engineer, but I aint the dimmest bulb in the pack............Boat dr

Eric if this indeed true try this......

Remove the rudder
Plug the hole so it does not sink
Drop it in gear
If the force in only in a straight line the boat will go forward with no deviation, left or right.
Now hammer on the throttle and see what happens..........
The boat will start to turn, WHY ?????
Slang for it is prop walk, with an outboard or surface drives you will encounter a situation called BLOW OUT, where the boat can swap ends at WOT..........
With an airplane propeller this force is called the P FACTOR, same principal , but the effect is 8x's greater because of the density of the water ...........Boat dr

eric lavine wrote: , the strut is a guide and really do not have a lot of force on them

What tranny school taught you that,there is a conciderable side load and this is multiplied greatly in a turn..
And FIXTURE is the correct spelling, not picture with an F,ever heard of "SPELL CHECK"

             Boat dr

84bare12 wrote: i talked to Jeff at Midwest today and he said if its out of alignment from right to left its an easy fix by using the old shaft, if out of alignment up and down that's hard to fix. its not off by much, so I'm going to try to fix it!!!!!

Sounds like he means for you to use the shaft to adjust where the strut is mounted rather than you using it to bend the strut? I may have read your post wrong?

i talked to Jeff at Midwest today and he said if its out of alignment from right to left its an easy fix by using the old shaft, if out of alignment up and down that's hard to fix. its not off by much, so I'm going to try to fix it!!!!!

BuffaloBFN wrote: Have you tried sighting the shaft vs. the rudder from about 3-4 feet? You shouldn't be able to see the back of the shaft on either side.

Greg, You've been sighting down lumber looking for straightness too much!! There is a strong possibility that CC didn't put the rudder port in the correct spot!! You may be able to get a rough idea but I wouldn't use it for strut alignment. I would only go by using the shaft in the strut through the hull hole and log - preferably with the plastic bushing I have mentioned temporarily in place of the cutlass.

single taper, never had a problem with trans, i noticed the shaft was lose in the coupling and i no that's not right, i ordered a new coupling because it appeared to be worn. i also ordered a new shaft just in case. and since i had the shaft out i figured I'll replace the cutlass. i thought the engine was out of alignment until i put the new shaft threw the cutlass and noticed the struts out of alignment