ZDDP Question |
Post Reply | Page <1234> |
Author | ||
phatsat67
Grand Poobah Joined: March-13-2006 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 6149 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
See if J-Bear can come up and assist with the internal engine work.
|
||
Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Triple springs if I remember correctly. 20 20 hindsight should have checked against my cam card spring specs. I had thought that since I had a broken in cam and ran the VR oil I'd be ok. This will be next summers project. Will do as Joe says with the dial indicator and will go from there. |
||
MourningWood
Gold Member Joined: June-13-2014 Location: NorCal Status: Offline Points: 891 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
So, I don't own stock in Gibbs oil. I did, however, observe extensive oil testing on the Edelbrock dynos several years ago. Yes, these were flat-tappet race motors. Nevertheless, the Gibbs oil proved superior in every measure, including peak power. Oil life about doubled. Using since created. Internal engine wear remarkably minimal. Yes, it's expensive @7.99/qt. Rotella is @3.50/qt. So +$30.00 for a 6-quart oil change. But lasts twice as long, so difference really $15.00. I can live with that. (IMHO) |
||
phatsat67
Grand Poobah Joined: March-13-2006 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 6149 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
VR1 when wiping the cam Joe?
Do they install some pretty healthy springs down at Tristate? |
||
JoeinNY
Grand Poobah Joined: October-19-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5697 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I was never able to keep a flat tappet cam under my tristate P heads... wiped out 2, or maybe 3 (haven't checked the one under them now). My plan is stick them on a roller 351 for a 1:23 to 1 boat ... Once a lobe is really gone you will lose oil pressure, you can see it in compression testing before that, and in debris in the oil often. Checking the lift is the best way although without having the intake manifold off you cant know if any differences you see are from the lifter or from the cam. |
||
Duane in Indy
Platinum Member Joined: October-26-2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 1578 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Keep it as original as YOU want it
1978 Mustang (modified) |
||
phatsat67
Grand Poobah Joined: March-13-2006 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 6149 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Nice Alan, I am with you. As long as the viscosity/oil selection can protect at the operating temp thinner oil gets to parts much quicker and puts less load on the pump etc. Lots of wear occurs on cold starts.
Sounds like that stuff Todd is formulated for flat tappet diesel farm equipment. Just right for our use. |
||
81nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: September-03-2005 Location: Big Rock, Il Status: Offline Points: 5775 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I started using Cenpeco 15w40 in the flat tappet solid lifter hemi since the rebuild, not much forgiveness on a valve train there. Todd W turned me onto this stuff, It's not a off the shelf product but he gets it through a dealer (sort of like amzoil products) and uses it for all his farm equipment. The 15w40 has 1600 ZDDP. Cenpeco 15w40
I had always used the Vr-1 20w50 in the 81 nautique and to be honest with you I never liked it, It was a little slow to the top of the motor when cold and I never felt the 50 was required so finding the Cenpeco 15w40 with 1600 ZDDP to me is exactly the right combination. It ain't cheap but neither is rebuilding a vintage motor. |
||
phatsat67
Grand Poobah Joined: March-13-2006 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 6149 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Could cause a ticking noise. Could cause a slight misfire or lower engine performance. If the cam lobe isn't worn below the ability of the lifter to compensate for lash adjustment I wouldn't suspect a tick.
Easiest way to tell if you have an issue would be to check the lift of each push rod with a dial indicator. If one is quite less than the others then you likely have a lobe issue. My 351 cam/lifters have roughly 1900-2000 hours of use on them. Rotella since the day I put it together. |
||
Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
What are the symptoms of a wiped lobe on a cam? The ticking noise in the Mustang since I put the P heads on seems to be getting louder. I've adjusted /checked lifter preload several times. In the back of my mind I question the triple springs Tri State installed and wonder if they could be a cause?
|
||
phatsat67
Grand Poobah Joined: March-13-2006 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 6149 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Right, they were probably using something formulated with low ZDDP and an additive package not meant for an older engine. Oil Protection This is probably one of the best reads on oil/protection comparisons I've seen. Rotella/some other popular diesel oil ranks well and should be just fine for low spring/stock camshaft flat tappet engines. Even looks like the "old" rotella had less ZDDP which everyone thinks was the other way around. This shows its not all about the ZDDP level but the entire additive package. Looks like VR1 is top tier. Most likely quite overkill for our stock engines but good in high spring pressure/big lift/aggressive ramp rate applications. Certainly no determent to using VR1 other than I don't like to run 50w oil in an engine I had set up to run 30w in. |
||
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
The key point in the importance of the zinc is not the actual age but if the engine has flat tappets or not. |
||
Riley
Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7952 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I used ordinary presumably low ZDDP Valvoline or NAPA, (same thing) 10W30 in my BOL's 1988 Mailibu Skier with PCM 240 hp from 1992 to sometime around 2005 when people started talking about ZDDP. Engine seems to run fine, but we have been using VR1 since.
When I say more modern, I'm comparing an 80's vintage to an antique like the early '60's 170 ci IL six in our Mustang. I guess I'm still influenced by the rumors way back when that said you would spring leaks everywhere if you switched from non detergent to detergent oil. |
||
Duane in Indy
Platinum Member Joined: October-26-2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 1578 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Still another option
|
||
Keep it as original as YOU want it
1978 Mustang (modified) |
||
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Not me personally since I've always used oils with ZDDP but, I did personally see two cams with lobes that barely had any profiles on them. In both cases, the engine owners switched to modern synthetics thinking they were "helping" the engines and not knowing the importance of zinc. One cam was reported to have about 50 hours on it and the other about 75. |
||
GottaSki
Grand Poobah Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3337 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Someone here at work wiped a cam and tappet on a fairly modern looking 5-valve Audi turbo
Curiously, they ran non-roller systems longer than i thought anyone should have. |
||
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole |
||
GottaSki
Grand Poobah Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3337 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Oh, i thought that an early rendition of the 'the shocker' huh, Learn something every day |
||
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole |
||
phatsat67
Grand Poobah Joined: March-13-2006 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 6149 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Bruce, if your engine spec calls for 10w-30 you would be completely fine to use that (bearing clearances dictate oil viscosity selection). Stepping +/- 10 either direction shouldn't make a big different but going 30w to 50w is completely useless.
Rotella as far as anyone can tell continues to have 1200 PPM ZDDP which is completely fine for flat tappet engines. If they ever reduce it below 1200 then you need to start raising an eyebrow at using it in a flat tappet engine especially one with a larger cam spec/heavier valve springs. If 1200PPM wasn't fine there would be tons and tons of people crying about wiped camshafts online. I doubt many marinas even know what ZDDP is and care to check the content of the oil they order in drums to use for services and you don't hear about people experiencing camshaft/lifter failure. Anyone who has wiped a flat tappet camshaft (That is already broken in) please let us know what type of oil you were using. I doubt any forum goers are dumping 50w oil into their car/truck engines when it calls for 30w. |
||
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Bruce, I agree with Tim. Whether or not an engine has been rebuilt or not and it's age has nothing to do with the modern technology of multi viscosity oil. I don't feel using 30 weight just because of an old recommendation is a sound idea. Oil topics have come up at ACBS tech seminars for some time and the consensus has always been go multi viscosity. I run 20 50 in everything and Tim, that includes my 1969 tractor!! You must be listening to some old guy who has never heard of or knows about multi viscosity oils! Hopefully he does understand the importance of the zinc. |
||
TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21138 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
88 has a flat tappet cam and should not be considered more modern. Oil recommendations from 30+ years ago are not necessarily appropriate considering the changes made in oil technology over that time period. Yes, 30w rotella has less zddp in it now than it used to. I use it in my tractor but that’s it.
Was running VR1 when the cam wiped. Sometimes sht happens even when you do everything by the book. Not worth the chance to push your luck here imho. |
||
Riley
Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7952 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
What oil were you using when you wiped out a cam? I've preferred Rotella straight 30W for older engines that appear not to have been rebuilt. That stuff used to be pushed around here. Did they change the ZDDP in it? We've been using VR1 20-50 on older engines that have been rebuilt and on some more modern engines like Dave's '88 BFN. I wondered if VR-1 10-30 would be a better choice than 20-50 as that is what manufacturer recommended.
|
||
TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21138 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Be very careful comparing modern oils with those from the 80’s and 90’s. With modern roller cams and increasing emissions requirements, most of the “good stuff” needed for our older flat tappet engines has been removed from most oils, including the latest diesel specific ones. I’d need to recheck the specs on the various rotella types/grades, they reduced their ZDDP content fairly significantly (and quietly) about 10 years ago. I know VR1 and M1 15w50 continue to be safe choices.
Saving a few bucks on oil sure would be nice, but having wiped out a ft cam, the $10/change saved is not worth it to me. |
||
SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
2000 miles is a long ski run!
|
||
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
||
phatsat67
Grand Poobah Joined: March-13-2006 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 6149 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Dang, 2000 miles. Count me sold.
|
||
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
|
||
MrMcD
Grand Poobah Joined: January-28-2014 Location: Folsom, CA Status: Offline Points: 3619 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
My customers through the 80's and 90's were production engine builders.
Combined the built close to 3,000 engines per month. Was asked to help diagnose hundreds of engine failures. Never witnessed an engine failure due to the brand of oil used. Lack of oil changes or lack of oil I did see many times. Dirty oil and running when low on oil does cause failure. The modern Diesel oils still have protection in them that will protect your old flat tappet camshafts. Walmart has this in three brands for well under $20 a gallon. Most is in 15-40W. Nothing against all the modern racing oils like Joe Gibbs offering. If I decide to run 8,000 RPM I'll buy it but for my boat that rarely exceeds 5,000 RPM I'll run Delo, Rotella or any other brand that meets modern Diesel specs. |
||
DrCC
Grand Poobah Joined: April-12-2004 Location: at home Status: Offline Points: 2867 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I have an adjustable baseball style Rotella T hat. But inside the ski boat engine I use Kendall because it has a hand making the peace sign right there on the label. So, to me that means piece or peace of mind while towing wake boarders which I hate but do anyway.
edit: And you'll also be fine with Kendall. With Kendoll, not so much. |
||
Keep it....from sinkin'
|
||
phatsat67
Grand Poobah Joined: March-13-2006 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 6149 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I prefer Rotella 15-40 in my Fords. Between all of the Ford Flat tappet engines we have had over the years we have most likely logged 3000+/- hours of run time using this oil.
The valve spring pressure/ramp rates/lift of a stock camshaft really should be perfectly fine at 1200 PPM. I even run it in my car which has much more wild camshaft specs and very high spring pressure with no issue. I also prefer to run the 40W spec rather than 50W as the 40 has much better flow than a 50. Yes, 50 will thin out less in extreme temperature situations but within correct temp spec all it does is increase oil pressure and pump effort and reduce over all flow. If the engine tolerances are set up for 40w and it stays within a proper temperature range it offers all the protection you will ever need. Also, additives are a nono. Lucas oil stabilizer is just a high viscosity base stock with no additives. It purely increases viscosity. You would be better off running VR-1 20-50. Big Block Chevy engines really like to heat oil up unless running a cooler so the 20w-50 would be my choice for a BBC. Fords get 15w40. The Mobile 50W is a great choice if you want to go the synthetic route. Mobile would be my choice in a freshly build Big Block Chevy. Some people think the 1200 PPM isn't enough but in my (and many many others) experience it is perfectly fine to protect the tame flat tappet camshafts that come in the stock engines. So, nobody is really "sacrificing" or "going the cheap route" by using this oil. Long and the short of it. If you use Rotella 15-40 you'll be fine. If you use VR1 20-50 You'll be fine. If you use Mobile 15-50 You'll be fine. |
||
Nautiquehunter
Platinum Member Joined: December-31-2008 Location: Lake Lanier GA Status: Offline Points: 1010 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I have been using Mobil 1 15w50 in all my boats since 1989 . Never had a oil related problem . I add 1 qt of Lucas 10001 Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer to my 08 210 because of the additional load surfing puts on it .
|
||
jbear
Grand Poobah Joined: January-21-2005 Location: Lake Wales FL. Status: Offline Points: 8193 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
oil threads and winterizing threads are by far my favorites on here....
john |
||
"Loud pipes save lives"
AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
||
Post Reply | Page <1234> |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |