No Super Sucker needed

I see you also got yourself a mityvac. Good choice Pete, you will really like it.

Damn, I've run out of things to do until the Magneto comes in this week and I find a carb! Now I guess I'm going to have to spend some time on house repairs/maintenance!

The Rotella T oil is in and the pressure gauge is showing some movement when the engine is hand cranked.

Gary,
I found a reference to 1932 for the old "T" type clamps so I'm using them unless Bob finds that cache of old clamps. Pretty close in the years and I feel sort of appropriate. Thanks for the idea.



The water pump is fully assembled and pumps. I chucked it up in the drill press for a test. I ended up using the old packing because the 1/8" GFO Gortex was too big and it's the smallest size made. The old packing wasn't in that bad of shape but I resaturated it with some grease and powdered graphite. (lock lubrication and left over from my son's pinewood derby days!!)



I'm happy the way the plug wire routing tube turned out. It too was missing so I needed to fabricate it going by photos.

The hand crank needs paint but I still have some machining to do. I need to machine the disengagement "ramps" on the backside of the hub slots.

I sure hope this thing starts easy! You get 1/4 turn with the crank and the PTO/magneto shaft is 1/2 speed so that's only 1/8 of a turn on the crank shaft. My understanding is you bring one of the cylinders up in a compression stroke, pop it over the top and it should go!!!



Earlier I had asked if anyone used a primer or if one was ever made for engine painting. Duplicolor does make one and I bought a can along with the Detroit diesel Alpine green. My intent was to use it on any machined surfaces or bare steel but, I found it really does a better job on the cast iron too. I pre painted the backside of the manifold and side of the head that's covered up after assembly. It took 3 coats to cover the cast iron. The little peaks in the cast surface didn't want to cover. Then I did the rest of the engine with it primed. No problem with one coat of the Alpine.

Pete, these are the hose clamps on the 66 Skylark. I finally had 1 to strip out. Question, with your great 'knowledge' of the McMaster catalog, are these in there?

No usually just thumb tighten down,as taught by my dad. This one was on the intake side at the trans cooler. It's always been a little stubborn. The thumb screw if you can see in the pic is what's stripped. Take it out and cut it down I guess I could do and screw it back in past the stripped part, but I do have extra of these lying around.I will see them around and pick them up cause everyone throws these away!

8122pbrainard wrote: My wife keeps on asking me what the UPS guy is bringing me all the time from McMaster and. Just like Mike (wakeslayer) she hasn't seen the invoices but I do truthfully tell her the amounts aren't way out of line.

Keep it vague, Pete!

I had to start on barn / horse projects to renew my free pass. Mrs. Wakeslayer is not nearly as interested in the cost of those projects.......

I find this project fascinating to watch. I have nothing to offer to it but to watch and enjoy the resurrection of this motor.

Seriously cool stuff, dude!!

I too want to see pics of the watercraft that is going in.

The magneto arrived Thursday so today I was able to get it installed. The mag is really a "work of art". Steve the owner of Mainely Magnetos did a gorgeous job. Looking at it you'd think it was brand new. He does have some NOS but basically starts with old parts and rebuilds as needed. On this American Bosch he didn't have any coils left so he wound one. .007" wire and something like 20,000 turns!! He vacuum resin saturates and then bakes them.



The braided cloth covered plug wire is reproduction. It's modern silicone insulation under the cloth cover. Plain tinned wire core - no resistor wire!! I'm sure this thing will screw up a TV or radio if in the vicinity!



It pretty much bolted on except some minor linkage changes for the manual spark advance. The original vertical rod to the right was running into the distributor cap bolt head on the mag so I needed to bend a new one up. The horizontal rod running from the control lever is new too. It was the proper shape but was very badly rusted up.



Now on to the carb. There's a 50's updraft Zenith off a Wisconsin 4 cyl. on ebay that I hope to get. It has a adjustable jet so it would allow me to fine tune it to the engine without having to go through the hassle of jet changes. It of course would be a interim carb until I can find the original Zenith T3X. The carbs throat bore is fine but the mounting hole centers are different by 1/8". I'd have to make a flanged adapter. And no Steve and Bruce, I won't make it out of stainless and polish it!!!

Looks really good. Patience is of the essence.

Gary,
That would have been cool! As a kid, I always dreamed of having one of them too!!

I did win the carb off ebay. I've also ordered a rebuild kit which actually turned out to be a couple bucks more than the carb! Now it's on to welding up the flanged adapter tube. My plans are to put a layer of Bondo on the adapter and then distress it with my needle descaler to make to "look" like a casting.

I haven't received the carb rebuild kit yet but continued on with more small items like cutting gaskets for the carb flanged adapter.

Made the new linkage from the throttle to the carb.


I had to make a new throttle arm to get the throw longer to match the throttle.


With the carb located I could then locate the crankcase vent flex metal tubing and drill/tap the valve cover. The hole in the carbs inlet throat needs to be bored but I'll take that to work with me and set it up in one of the mills.


Mainelymagnetos forgot to send the coupling float with the mag and then sent the wrong one. It's the phenolic piece between the PTO coupling and the impulse coupling on the mag. I got the correct one so I was able to set the timing. I think I've got it correct. With the spring loaded impulse coupling it wasn't the easiest to determine when the mag fires. I marked the impulse housing at the point were it kicks over and then checked it against the point set opening. At that point I engaged the coupling just past TDC off the #1 cylinder with the distributor wiper on it's contact. At least with the manual advance/retard of what appears to be at least 30 degrees I think the timing point is quite forgiving. I'll see!!!

WOW!!!! Pete...impressive work! I probably missed it along the way, but, what boat are you going to put this in?

I noticed that you didn't paint the tag. Eric can help with that.

Pete no luck on the clamps.I looked thru three drawers full and only came up with 2 both ugly and 2".
Sure looks good wish I had something to contribute.
Bob

Pete I am wondering what that flexible metal house coming out of the engine near the carby is? Just crankcase ventilation or something else?

And second question is it original?

Pete it looks great and has been lots of fun following this thread. It shows your attention to detail in every thing you do.

I'm going to wait until I get back from the Memorial day weekend but it's ready for gas and cranking!!

Carb is on along with the crankcase vent. Now, before someone says anything about my fuel line not meeting USCG regs, it's not in a boat yet so they can't do anything!! Really and obvious it's a temporary line to get the engine going. At least I got fuel rated tubing!! Also without a fuel pump on this engine, (it's gravity feed) no high pressure line to the carb!!



I called Mainely magneto's (mag builder who did the Bosch for me) the other day basically to review with him how I set up the mag for timing (it's good) and had one other question. As sood as I asked him what the terminal on the point case cover was for, it dawned on me!! It's funny that I had completely overlooked it. It's to hook up a switched shunt to ground from the point set - To stop the engine!! Then I started thinking about what kind of switch would be appropriate for 1927. A knife switch!! Good old ebay and the second ad I looked at was a perfect size - small.

eric lavine wrote: actually period correct, was there a requirement?

Thanks Eric. I thought the knife switch was a good choice too. Requirement? Well, yes! How else would you stop the engine? I thought about a flat piece of spring steel under the base bent up so when depressed it would touch the point shunt terminal but that was too "Briggs & Stratton" for me!