Running boat on land

Also, is it a good idea to convert to electronic ignition? And how expensive is this? I'm thinking if it is not too expensive to just have the Nautique shop do it when they are doing a tune up on it. Any thoughts??

oledb4 wrote: So I talked to the guy selling the boat, and we are going to drop it in the water tomorrow just for a quick test run. Do I just need a regular battery for this? And am I going to eventually want a deep cell if I purchase the boat??

yes a regular battery is fine, no you dont ever want a deep cycle in these boats unless you are running a trolling motor. Or you want to run 2 batters and run the deep cycle for accesories while the boat isnt running.

So I talked to the guy selling the boat, and we are going to drop it in the water tomorrow just for a quick test run. Do I just need a regular battery for this? And am I going to eventually want a deep cell if I purchase the boat??

did marine batteries just recently stop making the stud wing nut combination for some reason?

Good we caught you in time on the battery thing. Check out this thread:
What size/type battery for a 95 SN?

I'll paraphrase Pete's most noteworthy quote from the thread:

8122pbrainard wrote: Deep Cycles are for small loads over long times. Starting is a BIG load for a short time.

Don't buy any hose as Bri linked as it would be a total waste of money and totally overkill, also not sure I would run out and spend $70-$100 on a battery you may not even need plus do you even know what kind of battery connections the boat has, Top, Side, Rings??

If the boat is not to far away go inspect it, take some pics, and report back. If there is a battery in the boat try a charger or jumping it, another option you might just be able to use one of your vehicles battery to start it or borrow one if possible.

Interesting, we were planning on buying a deep cell marine battery. Why do I want a regular automotive battery in this case?

It should. Another option would be to get some 1" (correct me if i'm wrong on size Larry) cooling hose. Undue the intake side of the strainer and extend that to your bucket. The hose can be pricey though.

I saw you mentioned replacing the battery. Remember, you want a regular automotive starting battery in this case. Group 65N. This is one instance were you don't want "Marine" and you especially don't want a marine deep cycle. Just an automotive battery, and they don't all fit in the battery box, that why you need the 65.

If it's sat for some time, expect possible carburetor issues. This is not an automatic deal breaker though, if the boat is otherwise good shape.

For what you are trying to accomplish option 1 is fine, bring duct tape and a 5 gal bucket also, if there is enough pickup hose to put it directly in the bucket, as Larry mentioned, a better option, if not however just run it directly connected to the hose.

If doing option 1, Turn the water and boat on together, same with off, avoid sustained high RPM's as the draw "should" exceed the hose output and could literally outdraw the supply and possibly run "dry".

You should also bring your camera and take and post lot's of pic's here were you will undoubtedly get some great feedback on what you are looking at.

Exactly, in fact I went to find that picture, but couldnt come up with it right away. No need to valve off between the fitting and the thru hull either. Water will run out the thru hull till you start the boat and the the pump will pull the water to the engine.

That thing is probably fine, but a little complex.

There are a few simple ways to go.

1. Undo your water intake hose at the thru hull. stick a garden hose in it and clamp it down, should be the right size. Turn on the water, start it up.

2. Come up with a little plumbing and a little bit of hose and extend your water intake hose (again removed at the thru hull) so it is long enough to reach into a 5 gallon bucket. Fill the bucket with a garden hose and keep the garden hose running. Start the boat and it will draw from the bucket. The advantage of this method is it will demonstrate your water pump is working. If you use method 1, the hose pressure will fill the motor and you dont know if the pump is actually working.
bucket method link

3. Some people plumb a T with a valve into the water intake hose. This is good because it makes running on the hose quick and easy.

4 and 5. There are store bought alternatives. Search fake-a-lake or perko flush pro, but both of those are unnecessry expenses and work no better than 1,2, and 3