ELECTRIC CHOKES! Holley Carb model 4160, electric

I have the choke disconnected on mine, so it's always fully opened and it idles at 750rpms.

Having said so, I dont think the choke is your problem, have you messed with the carb or distributor lately? did you check base timing? are the secondaries fully closed at idle? how's the ralenti screw set? too many turns in maybe? Any other engine work when the issue started?

edit:
oh, just remembered your other thread, it seems your reluctant to follow advise, as you got pretty good responses over there and you never bothered responding my questions on your issue. So it's really up to you if you want to keep chasing your tail looking at what's not allowing you to enjoy the boating experience or listen to the more experienced guys here. I dont need to remember it's you having a boat issue, we just want to help you, do you want to be helped?

Luchog: I have taken advise and I am extremely pleased with the feedback.I just took a glance at the previous post and I apologize I missed your comment.
-Rebuild was done by eric at FFM.
-No back fire.
-The issue started when the heads cracked.
-installed GTP40 heads (Eric recommended checking for leak around intake. This is where my issue is I have no clue how to do this or where to start or look.)

Eric was awesome had a ton of good information and if I had the money I would take it back. Great shop, quick and nice.


I have changed the timing chain, changed the cap and rotor(checked the springs on the breaker less, and greased them), check anti siphon, and replaced fuel filter. I have done almost everything that has been advised to me.

I am also going to check for vacuum leaks ( I have head carb cleaner or soapy water) tonight and someone said PVC valve.

Joe, did Eric install the heads and intake? If not, first thing to do is checking for vacuum leaks. was it straight dropped over? did you follow the torque sequence?

Another place for vacuum leaks could be at the carb base, or the adaptor plate base. spray carb cleaner or WD40 over there too.

Also check the secondaries are fully closed.

neither the PCV or the carb screws are the issue here.

The leak you found is.

The carb plate doesnt meet the exhaust manifold, it's the INTAKE manifold.
The exhaust manifolds are the 2 piramid like hanging on the sides of the engine.

is the carb properly adjusted on the intake? there should be no leaks unless a surface is not straight or a gasket is bad.

I have the stock intake. You guys could be awesome and tell me to get an edilbrok performer intake :).

Do the spacers ever go bad at the base of the carb?

Chain was ok. Little slack no broken teeth. I did put a double roller in :). Timing is now advanced to 10. I have a friend that has a vacuum gauge coming out Wednesday.

We are going to pull the carb off and reset it. any tips on sealing it so this does not happen again ? Maybe a thicker gasket (if they even make them) or double up. Any sealer I could add to the gasket?

82wake2001 wrote: I have the stock intake. You guys could be awesome and tell me to get an edilbrok performer intake :). Do the spacers ever go bad at the base of the carb?

To be honest the stock intake seals better than even an adapter plate on an edelbrock with the holley.    The performer is a great intake for a ski boat, but putting a squarebore on a spreadbore intake   adds another possible vacuum leak.   I could not get the stock pcv slaveries to seal properly, despite every combo you could try so I am running no spacer.