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Wire identification

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    Posted: May-21-2013 at 2:12pm
91 Nautique excel with 454 / 700 hrs.
I trying to confirm my investigative findings of the wiring from the current alternator.

Orange = to starter solenoid
blue with black tracer = ground at the coil mount bracket (po spliced a black at alt)
green = ?

I am wanting to upgrade to a 100 amp alt. I know the factory breaker is 50 amp with a 12.5 amp for the teh pro tec (I believe)...

Any advice?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2013 at 3:45pm
I have this picture handy, so I'll let it do the talking :
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shagit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2013 at 8:36pm
Very nice. There is a little difference with a Pro Tec motor though?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2013 at 9:00pm
Originally posted by shagit shagit wrote:


I am wanting to upgrade to a 100 amp alt. I know the factory breaker is 50 amp with a 12.5 amp for the teh pro tec (I believe)...

Any advice?

Don't forget you wire size if you are planning on a sizable load.


54 Atom


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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2013 at 11:21pm
Originally posted by shagit shagit wrote:

Very nice. There is a little difference with a Pro Tec motor though?


Yes, there are differences with the Protec, but I think the alternator wiring would be the same.

The only way that changes is with the newer one wire type alternators. I don't believe they need the exciter/ignition wire.

To answer your original question, the green would go to ignition. It's labeled the exciter. I think it needs a little power to start making power... but I'm not sure how that works exactly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shagit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2013 at 1:30am
Thanks for the info!
I'm going to trust a local starter/Alternator rebuild shop here in Orlando that's been in business since the early 80's, and that I have dealt with several times (all positive) in the last 15 years. They didn't have any 50 amp alternators in stock, and said mine was so far gone that it would have been around $80-85 to rebuild. So they recommended a 100 amp certified marine unit and said I will not have any problem with a 1 wire model. Going to run a 4ga directly to the soon to be 2 battery system, and no 'exciter' is needed (exciter - ha, makes me laugh a lil). Ground the unit to the ground terminal and I should be fine per the shop. So I still think I need to have a 100 amp breaker in there somewhere.... Any input?
Oh, and all they had was a chrome one so they gave it to me for the same price. Too bad its all the way on the bottom... :/
$119 out the door with a year guarantee.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shagit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2013 at 1:33am
And I should be good with 4ga wire, as the runs are short with the battery being in the back.... (stern for us nautical folks)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2013 at 2:51am
4ga wire goes to the starter relay just like the orange wire does now. The batteries charge from there, the 50amp breaker protects the wiring going to the dash which shouldn't draw enough for it to trip and any extra amps go to the batteries. I also had a ground connection on my alt but after spliting open the tape on the harness I cut it out because there are plenty of other grounds pig tailed into the same wire. I wasn't grounding the alt,it was adding an extra grounding spot to it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shagit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2013 at 2:55am
So don't run directly from the alt to the batt? And just so I'm clear, were talking the actual starter relay that is mounted/attached to the starter (on top) correct? This is what your using and have been?
Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2013 at 9:45am
I don't, and I can't see the need to do it that way and mine has been working fine like that a couple of years.   You still have to have a run from the battery to the relay to start the boat and it's an even bigger wire, the only advantage I see is a little less clutter at the start relay.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2013 at 9:55am
Originally posted by shagit shagit wrote:

So don't run directly from the alt to the batt? And just so I'm clear, were talking the actual starter relay that is mounted/attached to the starter (on top) correct? This is what your using and have been?
Thanks!


The Ford's typically have a remote starter relay, like in the diagram, although I guess yours could be wired the same way.

If you go that route, just make sure the alt wire is going to the constant hot wire on the starter relay.

If you accidentally wired it to the switched hot post, you A.) wouldn't be charging the batteries and B.) might be periodically engaging the starter with a running engine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2013 at 9:56am
^^^ And by "remote" I mean, mounted separately from the starter, "remotely" not like so you can start it remotely
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2013 at 10:06am
The alt wire needs to be fused or breakered at or below a known safe current level for the size wire you choose. Running it the through the engine breaker as shown in the diagram above is one option.

Do not connect it directly to the battery without a fuse or breaker, as the batt is essentially an infinite current source.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2013 at 11:50am
I remember hearing about the fuseable link in the PCM 100 amp alternator upgrade, but couldn't find a suitable solution for my homemade upgrade. There was nothing like that inside my PCM harness when I cut the tape off and took the alternator wire out. On my set up the battery would take any kind of alternator malfunction every wire along the way is big enough to handle it and and every wire going elsewhere from the batteries has a fuse or a breaker on it.

I think you will be fine with 4ga wire coming out of the alternator, it's big enough to take the full 100 amps. The stock 10ga is too small, it would probably last a while since the alternator isn't putting out a constant 100 amps, but not worth the risk. The 10ga ground I jumped from the start relay bubbled pretty good. It was seeing +700 amps for a couple seconds to start the boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shagit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2013 at 12:06pm
So I found this diagram last night online, this is exactly how my boat is wired. Thought I'd post it for others too if needed.
So I should run a 4ga to the starter relay (#23 in diagram)and delete the #23 going to the 50 amp breaker then? And #21 and #22 should also be 4ga as well?
Sorry for all the questions, just want to be sure I do this right.

Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shagit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2013 at 12:12pm
Trying to get it right side up

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2013 at 12:16pm
Yes, that looks right, I don't have another relay on the starter. Make sure you have heavy wire all the way to the battery and that it's not something that the start relay switches on and off. Sorry I can't see specific numbers from my phone right now to be more specific.
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