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Cussing the prop shaft coupler

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1000dollabill View Drop Down
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    Posted: May-11-2009 at 6:12am
Well, tried the socket and threaded rod trick to no avail. also, tried moderate heat and a few whacks with a hammer while tightened down. I'm thinking tighten down on the socket as much as much as possible then work my way around the coupler with an air hammer. Is this a bad idea? Trans damage? This thing won't budge.

Thanks in advance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-11-2009 at 9:51am
what are you trying to accomplish? new shaft?
new coupler?
are you using 4 bolts? be more specific
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-11-2009 at 10:03am
$grand - I couldn't get mine to budge either & ended up just sawzalling the shaft in half, as I was buying a new shaft anyway.

Even with the coupler out of the boat, I could not separate it - used a sledge hammer on it - of course I then ruined the coupler with a misplaced blow.
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1000dollabill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-11-2009 at 7:01pm
i'm trying to replace the strut bearings, using 4 pieces of 3/8" threaded rod and a socket. I only have enough room to put a shallow socket in the middle, even after removing all of the packing from the stuffing box. the socket is centered and only pushing on the shaft. all four tightened evenly as the shaft still turn fairly easily. Once snugged up the nuts wont budge. I think the threads are giving out in the nuts before it budges. I really don't want to pull the strut as i understand it must be aligned. I think the air hammer is the last option. It popped once but only moved a 1/16" or less. I'm thinking the tension from the puller rig with the vibration from the air hammer may get her moving.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CCrider89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-11-2009 at 7:59pm
When you say moderate heat what did you use?
I would think a plumbers torch on the coupler while under tension might do the trick.
CCrider89
Boating in the northern Adirondacks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-11-2009 at 8:05pm
Can you put something under it to protect the bilge, and hit it with more heat?
The shaft will come out the other way, too, if the motor isn't in the way

Mike N

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1000dollabill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-11-2009 at 8:17pm
Originally posted by CCrider89 CCrider89 wrote:

When you say moderate heat what did you use?
I would think a plumbers torch on the coupler while under tension might do the trick.


That's exactly what i tried. as I understand it, the shaft will expand more rapidly than the coupler though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-11-2009 at 9:22pm
Howdy neighbor and welcome aboard!

I don't think pulling the strut will help much. The 'easy' way for me is to pull the engine...the alignment doesn't worry me anymore.

Give me a call if you like.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 86BFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-11-2009 at 10:09pm
try hard bolts and new nuts? Pictures man Pictures!

If you screw it up, just get one of these!
Double taper, comes with coupler and a plug to remove the flange next time!
👣 Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-12-2009 at 12:30am
Boat Dr. told me since the stainless shaft has a higher rate of thermal expansion than the steel coupler, heating it just makes it tighter.
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote newoldboat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-12-2009 at 12:46am
I was able to get mine off easily with a three jaw puller but that is only an option with the engine removed. I tried to remove the original one on my buddy's boat and nothing worked, even heating it. We ended up cutting through it in line with the shaft with a die grinder. Try to cut all the way down to the shaft without cutting into it and then you can knock it off with a hammer. Exhaust all other options and then cut it off and buy a new one. Sorry I don't have an easier way.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1000dollabill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-12-2009 at 1:59am
well... with grade 8 hardware I got it moving. That is if you consider 3/8" over two hours moving! I hosed it all down with pb blaster and filled the pinch bolt holes with pb. I'm planning to let it soak overnight and go at it again in the morning. I did end up hitting it with my bosch bulldog set on hammer, seems like if I snug up all my bolts then add some vibration from the bulldog it moves. Maybe by this time tomorrow it'll be out!

Thanks guys.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-12-2009 at 10:12am
If you're using 3/8-16 rod and nuts, 3/8-24 will help.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lancef Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-12-2009 at 9:41pm
I tried everything also on mine..hours upon hours. I finally removed my strut and was able to get a 3 arm puller to fit in there. After soaking for days in PB, I would tighten the puller to the point of explosion, then hit the coupler with a hammer..everything would fall off but it would move quite a bit. Ended up taking less than an hour this way though...but that is not counting the little bit of time re-installing the strut.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lancef Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-12-2009 at 9:44pm
Oh yea, one other thing..Dont know what boat you have, but if you do cut yours off and need another one, I still have my old one from an 84 Nautique. My shaft ended up being the problem so I got the dual tapered set as shone above.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1000dollabill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-13-2009 at 2:19am
Got it out and back in already. worked on it all day today. Without this site I wouldn't have known how to do it.

The boat is actually a 1989 Ski Centurion Falcon Open Bow.

I also noticed my rudder port was loose so I removed and reinstalled it. I did however notice there is some rot in that area. I'm going to gamble that it will hold up till it can be repaired after the season. The boat lives in my garage except for the weekends and that area is reinforced. No money to fix it right now, and I'm no fiberglass guru.

Thanks Guys.     
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WaxhawBoater Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2009 at 3:55pm
I had the same problem with getting the prop shaft out of the coupler. I did the socket(s)between the transmission coupler and shaft coupler and going around each bolt screwing down on the coupler screws, 4 bolts, 1 turn at a time. 3 evenings,alot of cussing and a lot of determination, mine finally came off. I just changed out the cutlas bearing on the strut using my own $4 contraption I made. 5 hits with the hammer and it came right out. oooh, don't forget the set screws in the side of the strut that holds the cutlas bearings. Also, place the new bearings in your freezer for 1/2 hour prior to installing them and they slide right into the strut.
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