What’s a Holman moody 302?

It has different exhaust manifolds, no circ pump and I guess more hp and maybe better assembly.

Doug,

I feel the people who can give you the answers to your questions on the internals are off at the reunion. Wait a couple of days and I'm sure they'll tell you. The only thing I know is the H/M gains were due to the rather free flowing exhaust manifolds.

You mention a 25 HP difference in HP. From what? In 70, the other engine offered would have been the 225 HP (318) Chrysler.

Pete    "You mention a 25 HP difference in HP. From what? In 70, the other engine offered would have been the 225 HP (318) Chrysler.""
    I was thinking about the 210hp 302.But you made me smile because a stroked 360 would be up my alley and I have a 6pak(not beer) sitting here that would be awesome to use. Owell- back to the ford.
Dr-everything I say here is from what I have read and not what I have done and therefore it may or may not be worth a $hit.
Yes the 331 is the best pkge to drop in a 302 but The reason I was thinking 327 is I think (but don't know this for sure) that I could build up MY crank and regrind the journals for the added stroke. I knew there was a problem with the reverse rotation fords when it came to the seal and I thought the327 would get me around that.That and I do like the numbers matching block. Abuddy thats a "go fast guy" sez I should just go with GT40 heads and see if there is a better aluminum intake for the power band I'm running. Then if I still need more I could stroke it.

   "That seal is very difficult to come by"
Do you mean the 1pce reverse rotation seal?

   "built a 331 for my '64"
I know this may be a trade secretand ifso, just don't answer but which heads and cam did you go with, what prop supported the new power?

My boat was touching 49mph off the trailer without any tuning or hull prep. My weigh with a full tank of fuel and trailer is 2136. I haven't been able to run just the trailer across the scale but I dont think I have excess water in the hull. When you add 30 gallons at 180 lbs?
If my numbers are correct then the boat is around 1600lbs?!!
Anyways-50 mph is enough for this hull so all I really want to work on is the hole shot.
Thanks for your replys
Doug

Doug the one piece RR rear seal is hard to find, there is no difference on the two piece, the knurling keeps the oil away from the seal.
As far as mods to my 331, it too was done for punch and not for top speed.Cam Research did the bump stick,GT-40 heads, Edelbrock Performer intake and a 600 cfm Holley. Mallory Uni-Lite dizzy w/ matching HO coil.
The crank driven raw water pump , removing the circ. pump along with the polished Hi-Yek SS headers were done as much for weight saving as the performance and HP gains.
All in all I am very satisfied with the power and speed that this little motor produces.
For skiing and pulling I run a 12x14 cupped .025 for tooling around I run a 12x15 w/ a mild cup and still spin it 5200 rpm's.. Still looking for that 60 mark, the roller rockers and a little hull work will do the trick ......Boat dr

Holman-Moody shop 1968

[QUOTE=Tim D] When I put roller rockers in mine, I noticed the most difference in the mid range power.
[IMG]

Tim- what ratio,cam and heads and what did you notice? What I'm looking for is the balls to pull a couple barefooters out of the deep and still run close up to 50mph.

Doug, while HM indeed built thousands of hard core race engines for cars and boats, the long blocks on the engines used by companies such as Correct Craft, Donzi, etc, were typically identical to those marinized by other companies. In the very earliest days however, mainly about '64-71, HM used the "premium fuel", i.e., higher compression versions of those long blocks provided by Ford, which resulted in slightly more HP than the other marinizations. Most common examples of this were the early 225HP 289 and 235HP engines which were approx 10:1 and 10.5:1 compression engines as noted on the engine I.D. tags. The competitors 4-barrel 289 and 302 engines at that time were 210-220 HP, and typically used 8.5-9:1 CR's. HM's 2-barrel version used in a good number of CC's was rated at 210HP and had 9.5:1 comp, again, the same as the automotive counterpart of that day. Also, the first HM 4-barrel 351's which debuted in '69 and ran thru about '72 were 290HP, 10.7:1 CR engines which mirrored the auto version. But no standard alum intakes, or other performance adders on the stock assembly line engines being warranteed in factory boats. They did however, sell a variety of high perf engines and parts directly over the counter for any customer that wanted them. As far as HM's marinization package goes/went, they had a few items which distinguished them from many of the rest of the time; aluminum freer-flowing exhs, chrome valve covers, rear engine mounts attached to an alum bell-housing instead of the trans, making it much easier to pull a trans, many with double belted pulleys (unlike one above), etc.. The HM engine wasn't even the most expensive option as evidenced by a price sheet somewhere on this Site. Both the Chrysler and OMC I believe were more expensive. The engine manual(s) for these HM engines are mostly available thru Marineengines.com or some site like that.

As for your goals to yank a couple footers with a good holeshot, you indeed have several options: You can go the stroker route as Billy mentioned above, or build the 302 you have now. Our 302 herehttp://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=184&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1969&yrend=1969 will certainly do everything you want, but if you're planning to pull multiple footers often, then there's no substitute for cubic inches and Billy's 331 definitely has more pull/holeshot than this 302, although the 302 might have as much (or more) horsepower. And if you add the HP for the holeshot, you will automatically get the added bonus of 50+ mph speeds, with no need for any special props other than those noted by Billy or myself.    

Gary S provided this info on the build tag on my motor:D9HM-3708 2 RWT
Doug,not to step on Reids's toes,he is after all the HM guru, I have the info right here. The 9 is for the year of the engine which is 69, that fits since your boat was built in early 70. The 2 is for right hand rotation. D is the size 302.3708 is the serial #,RW is raw water cooled and T is a 12 degree drive