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Shorestation conversion??

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MADTOWN78 View Drop Down
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    Posted: July-01-2008 at 8:12pm
So I have acquired an old shorestation that is currently set up for an I/O? or at least I think that is what it is set up for? The rear support has 2 pivoting brackets with wood on them (they would conform to the hull when raising the lift) the front support has nothing on it, so the keel would just rest on it.

I want to convert it to properly support my 78 SN. I am guessing that I will need to get brackets for the front and rear supports that will hold carpet covered bunks (similar to the trailer supports, and I assume the correct way to support the hull with an inboard?).

Can I get some advise on where, what, how to go about this?

Do I need to find a model number on the lift in order to acquire the correct brackets? or, are there some universal brackets?

When can I find these brackets?

I really have no clue on the best way to go about this.

The lift is currently up at the lakehouse (I will be going there for the holiday weekend) so I can look up any needed info and take proper measurements if I know what measurements to take.

thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2008 at 8:18pm
Hilton, Hopefully the Shorestation is a aluminum one and not the real old painted steel!!





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote behindpropeller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2008 at 12:26am
Can you weld??

I can show you how mine is set up.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RainDog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2008 at 1:13am
Huh...Where there is a PWC, a tube is surely to be found!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Luchog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2008 at 2:02am
Where can I get some plans to make one of these myself???

How much can you lift the boat? at my place water level can get as low as 6 feet and as high as 13, what design should I look for?
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It is aluminum, but does not drop down in the center like the one you show in the pics.

The rear and front supports go straight across.

I can not weld, but a good friend can. So, I can call in a favor. Behindprop -- how is yours set up?

Pete -- it looks like the one in the pics has the bunks bolted on to the front and rear supports. Any chance I can obtain some aluminum I beam (that is a bit taller to accomodate for the lack of drop down in the supports) and affix some carpeted wood and then just bolt them to the supports.

Pete it also looks like those bunks are out pretty far to the sides. Makes me wonder what is the optimum placement. I thought they should be a bit closer (closer to just under the primary stringers)??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2008 at 7:45am
Originally posted by MADTOWN78 MADTOWN78 wrote:

It is aluminum, but does not drop down in the center like the one you show in the pics.

The rear and front supports go straight across.

I can not weld, but a good friend can. So, I can call in a favor. Behindprop -- how is yours set up?

Pete -- it looks like the one in the pics has the bunks bolted on to the front and rear supports. Any chance I can obtain some aluminum I beam (that is a bit taller to accomodate for the lack of drop down in the supports) and affix some carpeted wood and then just bolt them to the supports.

Pete it also looks like those bunks are out pretty far to the sides. Makes me wonder what is the optimum placement. I thought they should be a bit closer (closer to just under the primary stringers)??


Hilton,

First, there is no welding done on the actual lift. The rear cross member was cut out (Sawsall and sitting if the fishing boat - 10 minutes of cutting) and the new "V" cross member was bolted to the bottom of the original. I did weld up the new "V" but that was in the shop. The cutting of the cross member I did in the water but if your lift is still on land, it would be easier!

The width placement of the bunks mimics the bunks on the trailers.

Taller "I" beam is available but without cutting the cross member, it would need to be at least 12". I don't think you want to put 12" (or pay for) that large of a "I" beam.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2008 at 7:52am
Originally posted by RainDog RainDog wrote:

Huh...Where there is a PWC, a tube is surely to be found!


Steve, Trust me, there is NO tube!!! BTW, the PWC is my wife's. She bought it used as a rebuilt. I'm not a big fan of them ether and the reason she bought it. Standing on my head in a hole working blind and by feel only is not my idea of fun!! Have you ever had to change a starter on one of the damn things??


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MADTOWN78 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2008 at 11:58am
Pete -- what is the "V" crossmember made of? sheet aluminum welded together? what thickness?

Where is the best place to obtain the "V" crossmember material and some "I" beam bunks?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MADTOWN78 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2008 at 12:01pm
While I am at it. What is everyones opinion on a good place to find a canopy frame and canopy? I don't have the $$ to drop a bunch on a canopy, as I would rather put it in the boat.

Has anyone had any sucess in fabrication of their own canopy or know of a quality canopy that is decently priced?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2008 at 12:11pm
Hilton,
The V cross member is 2"x6" retangular tube with a 1/8" wall. The original that was cut our was 2x5 so I was basicly duplicating it but happened to have the 2x6 on hand. The "I" beam is a 5"x3.5" flange.

Check your local Yellow pages for a steel/aluminum supplier. Should be one around and hope you won't need to go to Milwaukee. But also, I'm sure Central Steel and Wire has a truck in your area almost daily from Milwaukee.

Check what clearance you need below the bunks. My boats are 12" props and the rudders stick down about the same. If you need more, just make the V deeper.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2008 at 12:17pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

why is the shorestation thread going to cost the guy an $500 in welding, bolt on the "new" style bunk supports! wtf?

I agree. Using I-beams for the bunks is completely unnecessary. Just get some mounts for the front to match the rear- call Shorestation, a local lift company or dealer, or have your welding buddy make something up. Then attach 2x6's to them.

Alternatively, you could keep all the supports independant. I doubt this supports the hull as well as full length bunks, but it supports it good enough and was easy to build.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2008 at 12:22pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

can you post the pic and tell the poor guy all he needs to buy are the bunks and the brackets


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2008 at 12:26pm
Tim, did you make up that HW reply? I don't see it in the thread. I agree though- our shorestation at the club just has brackets holding 2 x 6 bunks on the front and rear crossmembers. The prop and rudder just hang off the back behind the rearmost crossmember.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2008 at 12:27pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

why is the shorestation thread going to cost the guy an $500 in welding, bolt on the "new" style bunk supports! wtf?

I agree. Using I-beams for the bunks is completely unnecessary. Just get some mounts for the front to match the rear- call Shorestation, a local lift company or dealer, or have your welding buddy make something up. Then attach 2x6's to them.

Alternatively, you could keep all the supports independant. I doubt this supports the hull as well as full length bunks, but it supports it good enough and was easy to build.



Tim and Kevin, You guys are correct that the bunks may be overkill for your boats but you are forgetting one important factor. I have two wood boats that go on that lift as well.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2008 at 12:30pm
Originally posted by Luchog Luchog wrote:

Where can I get some plans to make one of these myself???

How much can you lift the boat? at my place water level can get as low as 6 feet and as high as 13, what design should I look for?


Is the water tidal? I think you are better off with a floating lift. BKH
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2008 at 12:37pm
Originally posted by M3Fan M3Fan wrote:

Tim, did you make up that HW reply? I don't see it in the thread.

Nope, thats a genuine quote, as is this:

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

i don't care what pete puts on his lift. madtown78 wants to put a 78 ski nautique on his, which is what my suggestions are for

He's having log-in problems. Apparently he's about as good with the internet as Pete is with cell phones.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2008 at 1:01pm
Hilton,

You can use the lift just the way it is, my 80' was on the old style Shorestation and it worked fine. IIRC I built up the pivoting pads which go on the rear, also added wood to the front section to lift that as well.

Although I don't see HW's posts, he is correct, you can purchase the bunks from a shorestation dealer that will bolt right on your lift, my neighbor has them, you can see them on the Shorestation web site or I could take pictures of his if need be.

They are similar to the ones on my current lift.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2008 at 1:03pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Nope, it's a genuine reply. By the way, TSC boats have a different looking bow than the previous hull, and my dad was crazy for choosing red and khaki colors on his boat. Pretty soft color combo, I know. Also, I'm seriously thinking about bringing the 90 to GL again.


Gotcha Tim. BTW, I agree on all that other stuff too.

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Thanks all!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2008 at 1:29pm
Originally posted by M3Fan M3Fan wrote:

Tim, did you make up that HW reply? I don't see it in the thread.


Joel (and Chris), You are correct that Tim is being creative this morning!!! Funny thing - I got a email from HW this morning - he can't post on CCfan for some reason and it's why he did the PM!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote behindpropeller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2008 at 2:37pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by MADTOWN78 MADTOWN78 wrote:

It is aluminum, but does not drop down in the center like the one you show in the pics.

The rear and front supports go straight across.

I can not weld, but a good friend can. So, I can call in a favor. Behindprop -- how is yours set up?

Pete -- it looks like the one in the pics has the bunks bolted on to the front and rear supports. Any chance I can obtain some aluminum I beam (that is a bit taller to accomodate for the lack of drop down in the supports) and affix some carpeted wood and then just bolt them to the supports.

Pete it also looks like those bunks are out pretty far to the sides. Makes me wonder what is the optimum placement. I thought they should be a bit closer (closer to just under the primary stringers)??


Hilton,

First, there is no welding done on the actual lift. The rear cross member was cut out (Sawsall and sitting if the fishing boat - 10 minutes of cutting) and the new "V" cross member was bolted to the bottom of the original. I did weld up the new "V" but that was in the shop. The cutting of the cross member I did in the water but if your lift is still on land, it would be easier!

The width placement of the bunks mimics the bunks on the trailers.

Taller "I" beam is available but without cutting the cross member, it would need to be at least 12". I don't think you want to put 12" (or pay for) that large of a "I" beam.



That lift is not a shore station and I'm 99% sure that if you cut it you will be cutting a cable.

Ill sketch some stuff up and post it here since I don't have any pictures.

You will spend $500 if you buy the parts off of the shelf.

Tim

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Luchog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2008 at 6:25pm
BKH, thanks for caring, the issue is I'd prefer to have a manual lift and for what I understand floating lifts need power.

any other ideas?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2008 at 7:54pm
No other ideas from me Luchog. Nearly all my experience is with Floating Lifts. I have seen some with battery power and a solar panel to keep it charged. BKH
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