No stringer and boat pancakes

I'm in the process of replaceing the stringers in my 87 2001. I currently have all of the stringers out and the floor is preped but the boats hull changes shape (pancakes). How can I support the boat so that I keep the orginal shape of the hull?

If I pick up the stern the shape comes back. I can make a form for the stern but i'm not sure how to secure the bow with stands?

Andy, How is the boat supported now? Do you have it laying on it's hull side bottom directly on the floor? I feel BJ's on the correct track. Support the rear bottom at the corners (2 spots at the transom). Then a single point under the keel about 3/4's of the way forward. Use a level to check the floor (garage) and then use the level again to check accross the gunnels to make sure there isn't a twist in the hull. The hull should "pop" back to its original shape. This 3 point support is also the recommended method for storage on any boat. Were the stringers and foam real wet? The hull really shouldn't be "oil canning" even when walking inside. Pictures?

Eric, The trailer may not be a good idea. The wishbone bunks on a trailer may be putting too much pressure on the bottom near where the engine sits. They like to support this spot on the trailer because of the weight of the engine. Without the stringers in place, this may be the problem. Andy did state that when he lifts the boats aft, the hulls shape changes.

Lifting Hooks and Cables from above would be my solution

I was thinking the boat stands would be the way to go. The "pancaking" is not that bad but I do not want this happening while I put the stringers in. As far as the spiders go, I do not see any new ones because of the stringers.

So, I have the boat on the stands finally (being a new dad and owning your own business cuts into boat repair time.) Hasbeen, I see that you have half of the forward stands plate off the boat? is this necessary or the location of the my forward stands okay?

Pete (well anyone), where on the boat do I check for level? (fore and aft, port to starboard) I tried using the old floor outline as a reference? Would this be a good reference? And finally, how can I verify that there is no twist in the boat?

As for the spiders, yes I have a lot where the boat was resting on the trailer. I believe a new gel coat discussion will be in my future (after the floor is finally in.)

Stands look fine, the point is no buckleing on the inside. Have fun.

P.S. Good morning Pete.

You already have all the stringers removed and the channels ground down? I don't see any dust on anything

How did you pull that off?

I don't know much about wood. I just went with Fir because that is what everyone recommended! Good luck!

Well good luck! I see the boat is registered in Florida? If anything that will help because I did mine in NC during the winter and the epoxy took YEARS to dry. It was always hurry up and wait! Would have gone twice as fast if it was above 50!

Keep us posted!

This is the method I plan on using to get the boat level and straight. could any check it over to see if I have any errors in my process.

     Items needed
     2 – 48” bubble level sticks.
     2 – 84” bubble level stick. NOTE: it is not necessary to have a 7’ stick but the longer the better.
     2 – Straight edged 2x4 cut to 60” in length. NOTE: these two sticks must be exactly the same size in height and length.
     2 – Straight edged 2x4 cut to 120” in length.
     1 – Laser measuring device. NOTE: I use the bosh one, but if you do not have a laser then a good tape measure will work. (I prefer metric)
     1 – Grease pencil or pen.
     1 – Plum bob.
     1 – 3” wide masking tape. (optional)

1.     Place a straight edged 2”x3”x60” stick (running port to starboard) as far back towards the stern on the inside of the boat. This stick should be resting on what appears to be a ledge in the hull shape at the gas tank area. The floor in this area is not built up.
2.     Place a straight edged 2”x3”x60” stick (running port to starboard) as far forward towards the bow on the inside of the boat.
3.     Place a straight edged 2”x3”x120” stick on top of the bow and stern stick running bow to stern on the port side and the other on the starboard side.
4.     Place a 48” level stick on the stern stick then adjust the boat stands placed on each end of the transom till the boat is level running from port to starboard.
5.     Place another level stick on the bow stick then adjust the boat stands placed on each end of the bow till the boat is level running from port to starboard.
6.     Place the other level sticks on the 10’ sticks that are running bow to stern. Raise/lower the bow or stern stands as necessary to level the boat from bow to stern.
7.     Very that all level sticks are reading dead level.
8.     On the port and starboard side of the boat, starting from the transom, make a tick mark with the grease pencil every 12” and stop at the 13’ mark. I put a masking tape the length of the chine and the floor marked on the tape and not the boat or floor.
9.     At every tick mark, mark the floor with the grease pencil using the plum bob for the location marker.
10.     At the transom area, verify that each chine on the port and starboard sides are measuring the same distance from chine to floor, tick mark to tick mark.
11.     Tick #1’s (the closest mark to the transom) port and starboard should return the same measurements; if not, then you will need to adjust the boat stand accordingly till equal measurements are achieved.
12.     Tick #2 should be a little bit taller than tick mark #1, but both port and starboard sides should return equal measurements at the same tick mark.
13.     Repeat step 12 till all tick marks are checked, each progressive tick mark will be taller than the previous at about the same slope, but should always measure equal on the port and starboard sides.

These steps should have the boat level and without wind in the hull. If one tick mark slope is less than the previous then there is a wind in the hull at that location. To remove the wind in this location brace the hull at that mark till the correct slope returns.

Slope = rise over run, while our run is not flat and level it will do for our purpose.

F U
I´m having my stringer done in multi laminated wood.... I let you know how it turns out once finisheed... And for the subject well firts I had one stringer removed replaced, and then the other.. yeap to prevent flexing.... The boat sits on a trailer but some support was added on the hull edges were it doesn´t sit on the bunks..
Now the trailer needs to go so the boat will sit on stands.. one on the bow area and 2 on the stern on each side...