Replacing a rub rail

I removed the rubrail from my 95 Ski Nautique and am replacing it with a new kit. Do I try to drill into the old holes that are random or caulk the old holes and drill new holes. If so, do I need to drill a pilot hole prior to srewing in? Any hintS, ideas or suggestions?

AC.

There was a fellow on planetnautique.com who has done this several times. He posted a pretty good step by step process. If I recall, he was an advocate of using the same holes and had a method for doing so. You might do a search there. I think his name on planetnautique is wakejunky. BKH

Here is the link you told me about. Thanks!

AC.

The rub rail can be replaced, it's actually not all that hard. The biggest problem is getting the screws through the new rub rail and into the same holes on the deck.

Procedure:
1.) Remove end caps
2.) Remove insert
3.) Remove screws from rubrail
4.) If not already there, score a line above the screw holes but, below the rubrail height. This will prevent any spider cracks from the screw holes to come up past the rubrail.
5.) Warm up new rubrail. Either put into a box and put a hair dryer running on it or leave it in the sun. It'll be much easier to work with.
6.) crayon or grease pen a vertical line above each screw hole above the rubrail for reference when inserting new screws. You want to drive the screws into the same holes so, this will let you know where the screw holes are. Don't drive the screws in tight because the new rubrail will be wavy otherwise. Just get them sorta tight. Don't worry about it being too perfectly straight at this time, just get it close.
7.) You'll probably need somebody to help you, for holding it in place as well as pulling it tight. Will also need a heat gun to warm up the rubrail to get around the nose.
8.) Once the rubrail is installed, check for straightness. If not straight, whack with rubber hammer until straight. Don't worry they can take quit a bit of whacking.
9.) Install insert. Again use rubber hammer to get it into the slot.
10.) Install end caps.
11.) If you have any marks or anything on it you can get a rag with some Acetone on it and clean up the rubrail.
12.) Crack open a beer and admire your work.

Yeah. Just put the screws in and use a hammer to get it straight!!!

James, that list doesn't need much the way it is!

Yes, they are 1 1/4" stainless steel screws with a #2 phillips head. Give me your address and i'll ship you a dozen. They are my old ones and I received new ones in my rub rail kit.

AC.

aokcaldwell wrote: Yes, they are 1 1/4" stainless steel screws with a #2 phillips head. Give me your address and i'll ship you a dozen. They are my old ones and I received new ones in my rub rail kit. AC.

Thanks for the info and the offer! You don't need to go to the trouble of sending your extras to me though as much as I appreciate it. I only need one and probably have one in the toolbox. Thanks again.

Don't try to match the old holes. They will never be perfect and you do not want buckles in the rail. This is also the reason they have recommended just snugging up the screws and not really tighten then.

Update for all who helped. The railing went in great. Pre drilled all new holes. Two people and a hot sunny day made the install go easy. Suggestions were very helpful, omitted the "whacking" step though.
Also, kept the wife and am considering adding on to the garage!

Thanks,

AC.