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help on 1990 351 pcm

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dandiverdan View Drop Down
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    Posted: October-09-2007 at 4:29pm
new to page and have project boat, got a 1990 ski nautique 19.5 for a bargin 3500 trailered it home on a flatbed after it sat in a storage facility outdoors for about 3 yrs, put a new batery and some fresh gas in it and was skiing that day believe it or not. The motor ran like a champ and began to run hot at the end of the season. took apart the heat exchanger to find it about 90 blocked with oxidation. removed all components of the fresh water cooling system and converted it to raw water, since then i have also cleaned/ degreased, the engine put new plugs, wires and new valve covers as well as painted the manifolds. upon completion of this i took it out for a ski session and the thing ran horrible. first off it ran at about 120 degrees, far too cold, and since then its condition has gotten worse, starting with loss of power, and rough idleing. engine sounds fine in nutural and revs up with a back fire occasionally, sounds like preignition a bit. any ideas? ran great before work i did!!!
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bill1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bill1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-09-2007 at 11:24pm
ran great before work i did!!!


why did you replace anything then? i think i have seen this here before when someone replaces a bunch of things and when they try to run it, it doesn't run. now you have changed so many parts at one time you don't know where your problem is.
bill
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-10-2007 at 7:09am
Dan, This is Tims (he does fantastic diagrams!) block diagram of a basic cooling system. It sounds like you are missing the control of a thermostat. I'm sure you have thought the same. When you converted back, did you use all OEM routing of plumbing?



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-10-2007 at 9:36am
Pete, I think it's a flow chart...no pun intended.
1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO
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dandiverdan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dandiverdan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2007 at 2:03pm
found a problem with the coil, not putting out a consistant spark. any ideas about a new one. should i go with electronic ignition?
1990 Ski Nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncle-buck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-14-2007 at 7:49pm
Dan, I have a 1990 Nautique, also and recently converted to electronic ignition using a breakerless ignition kit that Skidim (Discount Inboard Marine) sells for Prestolite distributors. So far, so good.

If you do the conversion, be sure and get the correct kit for your distributor and the correct ignition coil for the kit - and pay close attention to the kit instructions with respect to the ballast resistor. Some conversion kits use it, and others do not.

If the boat sat in an outdoor storage facility for 3 years, there may be some varnish and/or corrosion in the carb. If it's just varnish and/or trash, rebuild the carb using Holley kit no. 703-47 available from Amazon.com. (I'm assuming you have a Holley 4160 marine carb., part no. 0-80319-1.)

If the carb is corroded on the inside, most people will tell you it's time for a new one. Again, Skidim is a good place to buy it. Consider bunching your order (buying eveything you think you'll need) and entering one of the discount codes they offer (like "CCFAN") for a 10% discount.

In addition to the things you've already done, you may want to install a new fuel filter/cartridge and 143 degree thermostat which is what PCM recommends for boats equipped with raw water cooling.

Good luck and let us know how everything works out for you. It sounds like you got a nice deal on that boat.


1990 Ski Nautique (original owner)
PCM 351W with D.U.I.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dandiverdan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-17-2007 at 5:45pm
well i went the cheep way and went ahead and got a new coil and took it for a ride, at first no change but then i pulled the plugs to find six fouled out so i went and replaced them all. took it for a test drive and ran like a champ!!!! thanks to all who posted for your advice.
1990 Ski Nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tnplicky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-21-2007 at 11:24pm
8122pbrainard or anyone else that can teach me something:

[/QUOTE]

I am trying to understand my cooling system better ('95 SN, GT-40, PCM/Ford 351). So, correct me if I got it wrong. When the t-stat is closed/cold, water from the impeller/raw water pump goes straight out through the exhaust manifolds w/o going through the engine? Meanwhile the water already in the engine circuit, circulates through the engine, via the circualtion pump until it gets hot (~140 / 160 F depending on t-stat), at which time the t-stat opens (hot)allowing cool water in the engine circuit to cool it ?!?!?!   Looking at passages in my t-stat housing, it looked like some cool water would always flow through the engine circuit regardless if the t-stat was open or closed. Am I missing something?     
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tnplicky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-26-2007 at 9:00pm
thoughts?   anyone?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-26-2007 at 9:32pm
Tim, I'm surprised no one responded and I just now found the post with your question from the 21st. Don't know how I missed it.

Your understanding on the operation of the cooling system is right on the money!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tnplicky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-27-2007 at 10:38am
Pete,

Thanks for the response. Kind of a theread jack here, but I was trying to understand the debate about winterization (bucket filling with anti-freeze vs. back-filling). I've always bucket filled mine after warming the engine up using water first, then draining the water, then running the engine sucking anti-freeze out of the bucket. The debate on whether or not the t-stat would open or not, not allowing anti-freeze in the engine concerned me. After bucket filling this year, I backed the block plugs out to make sure anti-freeze make it to the engine circuit, which it did. I then also opened the t-stat housing to check things out. It seemed as if the system filled w/ anit-freeze. That's when I noticed what appeared to be a t-stat bypass passage in the housing that would allow cool water into the engine circuit regardless whether the t-stat was fully open or not.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-29-2007 at 10:05am
Only goes wrong when people don't drain the block and expect the bucket method to displace the water in the block...
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