The Separator |
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Geno
Senior Member Joined: September-05-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 179 |
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Posted: September-27-2007 at 6:20pm |
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Hopefully going to start prepping for paint on the boat and trailer this weekend. Will be redoing the interior as soon as I sell some more stuff LoL.
I guess this will be a log of sorts so that I'll be able to remember what all went into it and just how long it actually takes. Pete - cover your eyes and ears and please remember this is not a personal affront directed at you. The hull is going to be cherry red and the deck will be white. The vents and scoop will be cherry red and the windshields are going to be darkly tinted. The trailor will get a fresh coat of white paint and the wheels will probably be media blasted and painted red to match the hull. This is not going to be a restoration, my goal is simply to make an old boat look good again. The engine, tranny and drive are going to stay as they are for now and nothing will be changed as far as bodywork. Later I plan to redo the interior in red and white as well. I will be keeping everything as original as possible with the exception of the color scheme and the colors used. here's what I'm starting with: Pics of progress as I make progress. |
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Riley
Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7948 |
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Interesting how they did the exhuasts compared to VDs today.
What's the 3rd rubber flap for on the transom? Can't miss with red and white. It ought to look good. |
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84zz4ss
Newbie Joined: July-14-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 32 |
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Looks like the third flap is for the bilge blower.
Scott |
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Thanks
Scott |
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66Skylark
Senior Member Joined: September-01-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 195 |
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Geno,
Good luck fixing up the boat. Keep the pictures coming. Kyle |
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Geno
Senior Member Joined: September-05-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 179 |
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Haven't been able to work on it any yet but plan to get busy this weekend.
Mechanical: So far I've ordered a set of trim tabs (smart tab sx9510-80) and am in the process of ordering a carb. The holley 600 that's on it is not a marine application so I'll have a refurb 4160 on the way today or tomorrow. Looks like I'll be using a reman 600 holley with an adapter on my Chevy truck engine to be rebuilt soon lol. I'll get the prop off it this weekend and get it to the shop for reconditioning. Paint: Ordering the paint today - going with the original yellow color that's so common on Torinos and original white for the trailer. It will be real slow for me to get it painted because I want to get the mech stuff in order before I paint and I'll be doing 90% of the prep myself. I'm the world's worst procrastinator and just plain lazy on top of that so please be patient or feel free to come help. Free food and beverages for anyone that takes me up on it. |
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eric lavine
Grand Poobah Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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the more i see the boat the cooler it looks
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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Geno
Senior Member Joined: September-05-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 179 |
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Thanks Eric - you're welcome to come take her out anytime.
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eric lavine
Grand Poobah Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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how about i take her home with me?
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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Geno
Senior Member Joined: September-05-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 179 |
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Just fill the tank when you bring her back.
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eric lavine
Grand Poobah Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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i wasnt planning on giving it back, i would take real good care of it
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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Geno
Senior Member Joined: September-05-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 179 |
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We'll have to discuss that Eric.......I do believe you would take good care of her though.
Okay - just payed for a Holley marine app 4160 should have it in a couple of weeks at most. Planning on running the boat after carb installation and dial in so I know where the baseline is, installing the tabs in the launch parking lot and running her again so I can tell if the tabs have too much downforce (the manufacturer will exchange the struts for lighter ones if so) and then deciding what to do with the prop. I'm going to try and get the tach running so I can have a better idea of what's going on. Anyone know which wire goes to the tach on a mallory three wire setup? I'll have to research that. She has a Federal 12RH15 super cup on her now and I don't really know if it needs more until I can see what rpm she's turning at WOT with a good carb. I have a strong suspicion that the secondaries were completely nonfunctional as they were rusted shut to begin with and all I did was poke a screwdriver through them to open them manually. |
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Geno
Senior Member Joined: September-05-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 179 |
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Going to attempt to fix the tach soon.
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Geno
Senior Member Joined: September-05-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 179 |
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Got a new jack for the trailer (going to hang on to the old one), purchased my sandblasting media, pulled most of the lights/wiring from the trailer and pulled most of the chrome from the boat. Going to get new screws, snaps, etc. in stainless to reinstall after paint.
Some of the screws seemed a little loose for my taste - should I go one size larger on the screws that hold down the snaps, rub rail, etc. or will that cause cracking? |
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Seperator
Groupie Joined: May-23-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 64 |
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Geno, Looks like a nice project. What year did you say this boat is again?
Interesting installation position on the T tabs. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Geno, This is a common problem with wood boats that get varnished frequently. (lots of hardware R&R) It will happen on fiberglass as well. I would not recommend a larger screw because it will not match the hole in the hardware. Get a glue injector. They are a large plastic syringe available at woodworking stores or supplies. Fill it with some epoxy and inject the screw holes. It doesn't take much and in some cases you may even need to drill a new pilot hole. Don't force the screws in as that will cause the cracking. Let the threads of the screw do the work and not the tight fit of the root dia. and shank. |
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Geno
Senior Member Joined: September-05-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 179 |
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The engine is a 1970 so I'm assuming it's a 70. That hideous aluminum thing is supposed to be a swim platform of sorts - it's also going to be gone before paint. I have new tabs that will be installed correctly after paint. Thanks Pete - that helps a lot. |
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Geno
Senior Member Joined: September-05-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 179 |
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Pete - should I put the epoxy into the holes and let it set before I reinstall the screws or should I put the screws into the tacky epoxy?
I will also have some substantial holes from the bolts holding that aluminum thing on the transom. Should I fill them with epoxy or is there a better sealant out there? I have some urethane 418 at the shop now and was considering using it. |
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eric lavine
Grand Poobah Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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Geno, you could use it anytime you wanted too
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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Geno
Senior Member Joined: September-05-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 179 |
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How about I let you carry her to the Orlando reunion? We would ride along of course as your guests.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Geno, You will want the epoxy to cure before you run the screws in. This is why I mentioned that re drilling the pilot hole may be needed. Straight resin without any filler is fine.
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Seperator
Groupie Joined: May-23-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 64 |
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QUOTE]The engine is a 1970 so I'm assuming it's a 70. That hideous aluminum thing is supposed to be a swim platform of sorts - it's also going to be gone before paint. I have new tabs that will be installed correctly after paint.[/QUOTE]
I noticed the exhaust is low..My exhaust is way up high on the transom with short 6" exhaust hoses from the manifolds...makes it reeeaaally loud. I wouldnt think those tabs would do anything to help get the bow down. Just my 2 cents worth but I just dont like the looks of tabs on these boats... |
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Geno
Senior Member Joined: September-05-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 179 |
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The exhausts were low on the earlier versions and high on the later versions. We're missing the 1969 and 1970 brochures to be able to tell exactly when they were changed. The 71 has them high and 68 has them low.
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Poster112
Senior Member Joined: May-28-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 206 |
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Is that a Shelby County tag on that truck?
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Geno
Senior Member Joined: September-05-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 179 |
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St. Clair
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Luchog
Grand Poobah Joined: April-17-2007 Location: Argentina Status: Offline Points: 2135 |
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that is a fixed position trim tab, it's used to give the hull some extra rear surface to improve planning angle by lifting the stern and lowering the bow.
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21123 |
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Yeah, Im sure thats what it was built for. Im gonna guess that its not very effective mounted a foot above the running surface though (notice its a V-bottom). |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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We have already fixed Geno up with a source of Smart Tabs in a earlier posting. I think he was being facetious when he mentioned the "swim platform". If you notice, the Separator is a V hull so a flat plate type tab won't even work as it isn't even flush with the hull bottom. Because of the weight of the rear mounted engine, the hulls were always slow to plane. The factory was even putting dual tabs on in later years. |
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Geno
Senior Member Joined: September-05-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 179 |
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The previous owner stated that the owner before him put them on the boat to aid in climbing out of the water. Trim tabs they may be but in the current position and with remnants of non skid glue on the upper surface - I'm buying what the man who installed them said. It's immaterial anyway - that thing is going to the shredders and she's getting the new smart tabs that I have in my living room. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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I'm not buying it!! It sounds like the previous owner was making up a story about the first owner using it as a step because he knew it didn't work as a trim tab. Ether that or the previous owner was smoking something. |
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Geno
Senior Member Joined: September-05-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 179 |
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Finally got to spend a few hours on the old tub this weekend. Between football (practice 4 nights a week and saturday games), my wife's work and my mother needing things done here there and everywhere I feel like I have no Geno time.
Got the new carb on her (the carb seal was atrocious so I cleaned it all up and got it right), the tach working, the floppy foot control braced up tight and took her to the lake today - she ran good but the results are still inconclusive. The tach was reading 2000rpm at a very slow idle and over 6000rpm at wot so I thinks the original tach is scrap metal. No wonder my stepdad didn't hook it up. I tried it both ways that I've heard about those old airguides being wired (ground side of the coil and hot side of the coil on the away side of the ballast resistor) and she only worked one way - on the ground side. The tach reading was all over the map so I'm not even going to factor it in. Decided to scrap plans for pitching the prop at the moment and move on with something productive. Removed the windshields, cleats, lights, horns, snaps, rub rail (took the better part of an hour alone), vents, cowling, glove box, port side vent, dash and emblems. Need to finish exhaust, hideous fixed position trim tab/possible swim platform, bolsters and engine cover hardware removal before filling and sanding. Will not be reinstalling cleats since they were not original to the craft. Anyone want 4 really nice chrome cleats? Also removing the prop to have it completely reworked - may re-pitch it later. Selling a couple of Kubota deisel engines to make up for the wife not working for a week and it looks like they will actually be more than two weeks of her pay - so we may start redoing the interior soon. A few pics for those who may be interested: Old carb - totally trashed. wedge cleaned up. One carburetor - hold the onions. Poor old naked boat. Some parts in a box. So there you have it - told you I was lazy edit: Oh yeah - she ran 47 mph and came out of the hole a ton better with the new fuel delivery system. |
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