Transmission slipping or something else?

KENO wrote: Back to something you asked earlier Mav, I think I'd order a couple of .110 needle and seat assemblies to get back to original size. They flow quite a bit more than the smaller ones like your .101's that you put in

I ordered some .120 needle and seats. The .110 that came with my rebuild kit I believe are to small based on what I read below


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xAE07AqsjiYXHAJrgv0DtcQzkX3sUpnY/view?usp=drivesdk

Thank you Keno.... what engine do you have? And what transmission do you have? Besides that the probable cause is low oil pressure not being to able to hold the power at those rpms

Back to something you asked earlier Mav,

I think I'd order a couple of .110 needle and seat assemblies to get back to original size.

They flow quite a bit more than the smaller ones like your .101's that you put in

baitkiller wrote: $20 on amazon buys a laser tach. Buy one, tape the shaft coupling and tape the crank. Go for a burn. simple.

Good idea I have one on order now and will try it out this weekend.

$20 on amazon buys a laser tach. Buy one, tape the shaft coupling and tape the crank. Go for a burn.
simple.

Well it seems like nobody thinks the transmission is slipping based on a variety of things, but like we talked about, it should slip on takeoff if it's gonna slip. Then again, none of us have been there in person to experience it first hand with you.

Any transmission slip I've heard has been noisy, usually on takeoff, sometimes going around a sharp corner while low on fluid and the pump loses suction, but not in a straight line giving it more gas at 40 plus MPH

You could see what the transmission guy(s) think, but I'd rule out everything else first, because you probably wouldn't be too happy yanking it out for an overhaul and then having the same problem after it was reinstalled.

I'd try a 0 to top speed blast without stopping at 42 like in your video and see how it acts.

I'd also have a timing light with a built in tach hooked up for that blast.

You could also disable the secondaries in the closed position and see how it runs, you'll lose some RPM's and speed but not a whole bunch. It won't hurt the engine, it just limits
how much air and gas can flow through it, limiting the power.

Almost hate to mention it but anytime I've had a tach go wacko, it's been ignition related, that's why I asked about the timing and checking the advance at 4000 RPM. The Delco instructions say it should be about 30 degrees total for that EST distributor.

Have you checked the plugs to see what they're telling you?

If not I'd check them as soon as you can, before heading out with it again.

GottaSki wrote: Ok I heated it with more clarity today To my ear as well, that's not a true 6k, at all I see the speed climb 42 to 45 in short order when you give it some I believe the tach s lying, consider it was constructed for a points system, 37 years ago. And your not accustomed to the symphony of awesomeness the ensues when you lean on on ithis boat and get on it.

Everything sounds great to me. Erroneous tachometer reading.

GottaSki wrote: Ok I heated it with more clarity today To my ear as well, that's not a true 6k, at all I see the speed climb 42 to 45 in short order when you give it some I believe the tach s lying, consider it was constructed for a points system, 37 years ago. And your not accustomed to the symphony of awesomeness the ensues when you lean on on ithis boat and get on it.

Man that would be ideal, it does sound awesome. I’ll take another video next weekend.

I might try raising the float height on the secondaries

TRBenj wrote: Sounds like the secondaries coming in- it’s about the right spot for them to (low 4K rpm range). Is this a vac or mech secondary Holley?

It’s a mechanical secondary, Holley 800. Do you see an issue with running a 101 needle and seat on the primary? It had a 110 in there.

Also how do I know if the float height is adjusted correctly on the secondary’s?

TRBenj wrote: Crmaverick wrote: TRBenj wrote: I didn’t hear any wind up that would lead me to think anything’s slipping. I suspect all is well and your tach is lying. Rpm’s didn’t change much by my ears. I would have expected a stronger response from a hammer drop at 40 with a HO 454 if it’s healthy, especially with the 431. On that run we didn’t hammer down, did a gradual run up into the 40s, if you watch around 20 seconds you’ll see the tach jump and hear the motor rev up when trying to give it alittle more I saw and heard what you are talking about and it sounded like a few hundred rpm increase as the secondaries opened- very much expected (if not a little weak). Ignore the tach and take another video with a WOT run- and gps it (navionics). Your oil pressure looks pretty high and temp looks pretty low in the vid... hopefully you aren’t running the boat at 40+ until you let the engine warm up a bit. How much experience do you have with inboards (especially older ones)?

Not much mostly just car and bike motors, that temp gauge must be off when I shoot the motor with the infrared gun I’m reading in the 140s. I took the thermostat out a few weeks ago and put in boiling water on the stove, watched it open around 140 then close back up after cooling.

The oil pressure I have no idea, I’ve seen hot idle in the 30s to 40.

I’ll take another video next weekend. I want to agree with you on the rpms that’s what I had originally thought, to me I feel like the motor has more to give when running at 4500 which might be 3500 in reality.

I did rebuild the carb and been messing with the float heights to get it running right. Adjusting the primary float height I had to ignore the sight hole for adjusting because of the motor tilt. (Lowered height until fuel stopped dripping in after shutting motor off)
) I also have 101 needle and seat instead of the 110, no idea if that’s right or not but that’s all the parts store had yesterday and needed new gaskets, and the new 110 in there felt sticky,

I wasn’t sure how to adjust the secondary's, so that’s set at the sight hole, but the motor is tilted that way so maybe I’m not getting enough fuel on the secondary's and it’s that delayed sudden kick in I’m feeling?

GottaSki wrote: Chris by friction material, I mean fiber on the plates, not a fluid thing

I did check the trans oil tonight, I found some milky condensation on the top of the stick, guessing that can be normal depending on conditions?

The oil itself is clear and red.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yW7rBrZMAYUMjBG_eN_vu__iNfmgg-V4/view?usp=drivesdk


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zc7nxoD9oB32dMzmOEua_HWBkNlVJLYr/view?usp=drivesdk

I have to agree with Tim at 6,500 that motor would be screaming. I could run my ‘95 GT 40 up to 55oo and you knew it

I didn’t hear any wind up that would lead me to think anything’s slipping. I suspect all is well and your tach is lying. Rpm’s didn’t change much by my ears. I would have expected a stronger response from a hammer drop at 40 with a HO 454 if it’s healthy, especially with the 431.

Crmaverick wrote: I figured I was thinking maybe if they’re slightly worn the Lucas could help

Give it a try and report back but, I have a feeling the friction modifier will have the opposite effect.

Chris by friction material, I mean fiber on the plates, not a fluid thing