Something's burning |
Post Reply | Page 12> |
Author | ||
TRIP
Gold Member Joined: December-08-2007 Location: Costa Rica Status: Offline Points: 629 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: July-17-2019 at 2:02pm |
|
Hola, already mentioned this in
another thread of mine , but figured this deserves its own thread. I just changed the distributor, and belts, boat has been running fine. However, since changing those, there's always a smell of something burning, perhaps rubber. Can't find exactly what or where but it's somewhere near the distributor, near the belts, waterpump side. If my nose is right, at least ;) I think that timing might be a little bit off; from what I read here it should be 5 degrees before TDC and the mechanic said he'd put it at 0 degrees. Could timing being off a bit cause anything to heat up excessively..? A friend suggested it could be the big (exhaust?) hose, from manifold to damper... Since it started right when the distributor was changed I figured it had something to do with that, but perhaps just a coincidence and it is something else? If that big hose, would that possibly the impeller going out? Was about to change that anyway, but what else to check? Thanks! Edit: engine temp stays fine. |
||
MrMcD
Grand Poobah Joined: January-28-2014 Location: Folsom, CA Status: Offline Points: 3590 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Is your belt slipping causing the burning smell? Look at your pulley's, if they are shined up looking like chrome finish where the belt runs you have a slipping belt. The pulley will also be hot to the touch while running if it is slipping.
They usually start to squeal but not until the belt glazes over and get hard from slipping. |
||
flyweed
Gold Member Joined: July-11-2016 Location: WI Status: Offline Points: 539 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
feel the back of your raw water pump when running..if it's hot.....and you can't touch it..your Impeller is making the stink. Don't ask how I know.
|
||
'93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower
Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride! |
||
TRIP
Gold Member Joined: December-08-2007 Location: Costa Rica Status: Offline Points: 629 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
How do you kn... Nevermind!
Going to check tomorrow, and impeller change was already planned. Hope that's it. Cheers! |
||
TRIP
Gold Member Joined: December-08-2007 Location: Costa Rica Status: Offline Points: 629 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
It's definitely the exhaust hoses burning and smelling. Odd since engine temp stays fine!
Changed impeller, and port side is better now, starboard is still too hot to touch (not even 1 sec) and keeps burning. Checked the hose from thermostat to manifold and a little rust came out, a bit or orange dirt stuck to the inside, but that didn't help making it any better. T-stat housing probably has a gasket? Not sure if I'd be able to find locally... Or is it a common automotive part? I tried getting the hose lose from manifold, not sure that's even possible without just cutting it open, so tight! Any recommendations or tips..?! Thanks! Edit: btw the impeller that came out looked like new. |
||
Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
You running in salt or brackish water?
|
||
TRIP
Gold Member Joined: December-08-2007 Location: Costa Rica Status: Offline Points: 629 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Nope. I do think a previous owner might have....
|
||
Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
There have been incidents where the exhaust hose getting older or overheated does not fit tight in the area that the arrow points to. The water just more or less runs out rather than spray's out. Wonder if that is whats going on? That might account for the engine temp being ok but smelling rubber
|
||
TRIP
Gold Member Joined: December-08-2007 Location: Costa Rica Status: Offline Points: 629 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Hose is super tight around there. Tried to get it off but no way in h3ll!
Can I take both hoses from T-stat to manifolds off, run into buckets and run engine for like 2 seconds? If they're spewing out more or less the same amount of water, do the same thing at the end of the exhaust hoses, both sides? That way I could see if there's an obstruction somewhere, and whether before manifold or inside it or riser? T-stat housing does have a gasket, right? So can't pull that open yet to check inside. |
||
gun-driver
Grand Poobah Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4112 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Sounds like a good plan to me as I suspect the hot riser is clogged with something probably rust. |
||
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Sander, If you remove the hoses running to the manifolds and look for flow from each, I don't feel you will detect a restriction in the bad hot side manifold. |
||
TRIP
Gold Member Joined: December-08-2007 Location: Costa Rica Status: Offline Points: 629 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
No, but it would tell me if there's something stuck in the thermostat or hose possibly? And then checking water coming out of both exhaust hoses would tell me if there's a restriction in manifold/riser/hose. Is the idea. Or am I missing something? |
||
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Yes, it would tell you if somethings stuck in the T stat area. Then checking what's coming out of each exhaust hose would tell you if one of the manifolds is restricted. Water from the single cavity RWP will flow more to the least restricted side. |
||
gt40KS
Gold Member Joined: August-05-2017 Location: Wichita Kansas Status: Offline Points: 943 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
+1 ..... when I pulled mine a couple years ago that is exactly what I found. I was told the boat hadn't ever seen salt water, but that much flakey, rusty chunks couldn't possibly come from fresh water. Can't remember which side was which but one side was at least 50% blocked and the other was at least 75. |
||
JCCI
1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
||
TRIP
Gold Member Joined: December-08-2007 Location: Costa Rica Status: Offline Points: 629 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
OK... think from what I read; when pulling risers the bolts are prone to breaking. Any tips on how to pull them?
Well first let's check tomorrow, but I fear this is what I'll end up having to do. Thanks for your input all! |
||
MrMcD
Grand Poobah Joined: January-28-2014 Location: Folsom, CA Status: Offline Points: 3590 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
First soak with a penetrating oil. Let it soak in for a few hours at least and overnight is better. I use a mix of ATF and Acetone which has been proven to break rust better than most anything at any cost. Automatic tranny fluid and Acetone mixed 50/50 is the bomb.
If you really want to get the stuff in where it can break things loose heat it and apply the mix while very hot it will suck the fluid into the threads helping break things loose. The longer it soaks in the better it works. Dont over heat and damage anything. |
||
TRIP
Gold Member Joined: December-08-2007 Location: Costa Rica Status: Offline Points: 629 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Aight!
|
||
TRIP
Gold Member Joined: December-08-2007 Location: Costa Rica Status: Offline Points: 629 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Well, did test output of hoses to both manifolds, and was the same both sides. So must be manifold and/or riser that's bad.
Tried to get the exhaust hose off on the bad side, sprayed some wd40 in between riser and hose. However: there's never enough space to move that hose enough to get it off, is there? And bending it isn't happening either. Do you have to get the muffler off to get the hose off? On another note; saw a little drip coming from the RWP. There's only one gasket going in there, right? It's leaking on the other side of the metal plate, not where the impeller goes. Do I just have to tighten the bolts some more? Or did I forget to put another gasket in there..? Don't think I've ever put 2 in, as far as I recall... |
||
Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I'm in the same boat too pardon the pun I have wondered how to get that hose off also. I know in my Mustang those aluminum HM manifolds are really easy to get off so I just pull them. I suspect the PCM's would be the same just heavier. My problem is that PCM used those carbon steel allen head screws they are quite rusty,I suspect yous are too which makes that much harder. If they would have used stainless it would be a quick job just to pull the manifold to get to the hose. Might be your only choice. I would avoid messing with the muffler any more than you need too,I would think it could be broken easily.
|
||
TRIP
Gold Member Joined: December-08-2007 Location: Costa Rica Status: Offline Points: 629 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Cheers Gary! Indeed those screws don't look too fresh, so I'm not planning to take the manifold off unless I really have to. Guess taking the muffler off is the only other option.
Yeah exactly, I really don't want to start prying in there with a screw driver or so. Don't want to have to fix even more stuff! |
||
TRIP
Gold Member Joined: December-08-2007 Location: Costa Rica Status: Offline Points: 629 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Seems like the most common route is taking the riser off. I'd really like to not do that (yet) so I think I'll try to get the muffler off. Looked at it and also does not seem like a fun and easy job, but I'll give it a shot I guess.
|
||
Mpost
Senior Member Joined: July-05-2018 Location: Monticello, MN Status: Offline Points: 323 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
When I pulled the hoses off my 98SN this winter, I used a hair dryer/heat gun to warm the hose up good so it is more flexible. Then Used a dull putty knife and a plastic spatula to do a little prying and spraying soapy water between the muffler and hose. Things were stuck pretty good but slow and easy it all came out fine without wrecking any fiberglass. Getting al the hoses loose makes in much easier to remove or install any one hose.
|
||
84 SN Sold 98 SN Lund Pro V 1975 Alumacraft
|
||
MrMcD
Grand Poobah Joined: January-28-2014 Location: Folsom, CA Status: Offline Points: 3590 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I will second the Hair dryer and warm soapy water with the putty knife. Can't do much better than that without taking more apart.
|
||
TRIP
Gold Member Joined: December-08-2007 Location: Costa Rica Status: Offline Points: 629 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Pulled the drain plug on the manifold (why hadn't I done that any earlier?!) and quite a lot of dirt and little rust chunks came out. What's best way to flush/clean them, and risers? Without taking them off...
|
||
MrMcD
Grand Poobah Joined: January-28-2014 Location: Folsom, CA Status: Offline Points: 3590 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
My guess would be to hook a garden hose up to the water inlet on the manifold and turn it on, watch for clean water coming out the back. Whatever is going to flow out will do so right away. A garden hose will have close to 60 PSI normally. The extra pressure will move pieces out that might not normally. With the plug out can you reach in with a coat hanger wire bent into a small hook and pull out any or break up the large pieces?
|
||
TRIP
Gold Member Joined: December-08-2007 Location: Costa Rica Status: Offline Points: 629 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Quite a bunch of dirt and rust came out, however hoses and risers are getting too hot to touch in less than 3 minutes of running the engine.
Time to order gaskets and screws, and take risers and manifolds off for a good cleaning. That's normally done in an acid-bath I think? Also, after putting everything back together, water was leaking from both sides of the exhaust hose. Can't/don't want to tighten the clamps any more. Should some gasket-like material go in there? Didn't notice any when pulling them off. Thanks! |
||
Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Time to order new hose. After 22 years someone got their monies worth. And yes a muratic acid bath would be fine but dont over do it on how long you have them in. You will know more once you get them off.
|
||
gun-driver
Grand Poobah Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4112 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Just did this on my new to me 2000 Sport. After doing a bunch of service fuel, oil filters, plugs, impeller and a new heater core with a reroute (correct way) of the heater hoses, I did a 10 minute run on the bucket for a leak check.
Everything checked out good and as I put my hand on the left riser it was to hot to touch, right side was just slightly warm. DAM!!! knew what that meant... Torch for 2 of the 8 manifold bolts and same for the risers (long ones) one snapped. I was able to heat the manifold some of the 50-50 fluid and vice grips got the broken stud out. Did the muratic acid in all the passages and poked around through the passages for rubber parts, none found. I did find this |
||
TRIP
Gold Member Joined: December-08-2007 Location: Costa Rica Status: Offline Points: 629 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
So how did it go for you gun-driver?
I'm puzzled: took risers and manifolds off. Didn't look all that bad, not very rusted. Cleaned them out with high pressure water, metal wire, and tie wraps (in on one side, out on other. Worked amazingly well!). Couldn't find muratic acid around here unfortunately but gave 'em a pretty good cleaning I feel. Put boat back in the lake today, one hose stayed just warm, other got friggin' hot again while just idling with boat on trailer. :( Decided to do a quick wakeboard set (15 min) to see what would happen after running some more and higher rpm's; when we were done both were just fine! Idled back to the dock, and now BOTH were way too hot again! Again: engine temp stays perfectly fine. Anyone can explain this? T-stat? RWP? If one of those would be going bad, wouldn't engine be getting hot too? |
||
gun-driver
Grand Poobah Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4112 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Mine worked out fine Trip, had it at the lake all week. I still want to clean the other side and replace the burnt hose.
I am going to take a look at the thermostat as it idles at 160 but pulling a skier it drops to 130-40. I'm thinking the stat is either shot or stuck open. |
||
Post Reply | Page 12> |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |