Relay Starter GT-40

Have you checked your ignition breaker and your ignition switch?

On the back side of the breaker, check for voltage on both terminals with the breaker pressed in. Same for your ignition switch. Check for voltage at the on terminal and also the start terminal when the key is in those positions.

The battery wire and the wire from/to the circuit breaker (50 amp) should be on the same post.

The wire from the nuetral safety switch should be on the "S" terminal.

The heavy red wire from the starter should be on the large post opposite the batter/breaker large red wires.

The "I" terminal should have 12v+ when the key is turned to "run"

Not sure about the other wires.

77stang wrote: i think you may have goofed. you have the heavy gage cable from the battery and the heavy gage cable to the starter hooked on the same terminal.

77 if he has the permanant magnet starter, then the starter is indeed connected to the battery.
the traditional relay now only activates the high-current solenoid/relay on the starter, not the field/arm current.

The solenoid-relay on the starter then turns itself on, activating the start

Did this problem ever get resolved??

From NautiqueParts.com

If the motor is cranking that should be the right way for the solenoid. (in my amateur opinion) . Now you have to look to see if you are getting fuel .

Per page 275 (of the PDF), Diagram 6-1 of the GT-40 Manual, the "I" post is indeed used for computer functions.
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/Downloads/Pro_BOss_GT-40_Service_Manual.pdf

Keep in mind this post only sees voltage during cranking, so you can't have any of the smaller red wires on it that are expecting/needing a constant hot.

The motor ran fine before I installed the starter relay only.
It just took 2 tries with the key once in a while, but I will say that the FCC rumbles every time now with key on with the new starter relay.

Funny how this post has been revived because I'm having issues with starting my 2000 sport with the GT40. The last couple of weekends I've put the battery on the charger due to it not starting. I would just get a click sound. One click per push of the start button. I went got a new battery(the one in the boat was old) and I got the click again. I pushed the button a couple of times and then it started. The volt gage went up to almost 14 but when I ran it a couple of miles the gage slowly dropped to just above 13. I shut down to idle and it went back up to almost 14 (slowly).and stayed there. I also have to mention that at one point, even with the old battery fully charged the key pad didn't work. At all. no horn or blower. I know in lock mode these are suppose to work. I do have to say I got caught in drizzling rain out on the lake and just left the cover off. The boat sat for 10hrs and the pad worked. I got the click again. But after 5 tries it started. That's when I went out to buy the new battery to start the process of elimination. Any thoughts?.

Hey Brian that would be great if you could stop by. I can't find my voltage meter and the electrical systems aren't my strong suit. I printed out the manual from you above link and holy Ream and a half of paper    . E-mail me when you think you can stop by and let me know what is your preferred beer.

Joe have you checked for spark??

I would take a step back and put the old relay back on and see if your relay is faulty. You could prove it with a VOM if you are proficient enough.

They call that a power assist relay on the GT40 and could not have put it in a more awkward place to get at. I like it's position on Paul's early GT40 it is much easier to access not sure Pete would like all that silicone though

Removing the old EEC battery cct is covered in this thread. It was a common intermittent failure on GT40's.

EEC Cct Retrofit