1985 2001 with 454 - dead

8122pbrainard wrote: Ian wrote: Just as I suspected. Motor is shot. Who's got a recommendation on a place to order a new one? What did you find?

#4 piston destroyed #4 cylinder, piston rings jammed into the walls and head... Connecting assumed broken - I can hear it flopping around when I turn it over. Unknown damage to rotating assembly, that's just what I found in the R bank... haven't checked L side yet. But it's enough to know it's DOA.

Gonna order a new one, with electric ignition, and all the new fancy toys I guess..

Sorry to hear the bad news Ian, but I had figured as much when you said in your opening paragraph that you heard an 'awful noise'.   In my experience that is never a quick, easy or inexpensive fix.

On the bright side, now you can chose new power, get it set up the way you want it with as much power as you want and know that she'll have a very long life thereafter       ( I know of what I speak )

gt40KS wrote: Sorry to hear the bad news Ian, but I had figured as much when you said in your opening paragraph that you heard an 'awful noise'.   In my experience that is never a quick, easy or inexpensive fix. On the bright side, now you can chose new power, get it set up the way you want it with as much power as you want and know that she'll have a very long life thereafter       ( I know of what I speak )

Yep, I've already gotten over the cost of a new motor. Now I'm on to the excitement of having a new engine!

Ian wrote: The fresh water cooling means they don't have to climb under the boat and try to put the plunger onto the intake... They can just reach over the side, flush out the intake and then the engine - all thru the fresh water strainer. .

Somethings not adding up. Both fresh water cooling (closed cooling) and raw water (sea water) cooling have thru hull water pick ups in the bottom of their hulls.

Do you have a flushing connection on the suction side of the RWP?

8122pbrainard wrote: Ian wrote: The fresh water cooling means they don't have to climb under the boat and try to put the plunger onto the intake... They can just reach over the side, flush out the intake and then the engine - all thru the fresh water strainer. . Somethings not adding up. Both fresh water cooling (closed cooling) and raw water (sea water) cooling have thru hull water pick ups in the bottom of their hulls. Do you have a flushing connection on the suction side of the RWP?

Yeah. There is a flushing access port in the boat. it gives access to the cooling system, and then able to flush out the thru hull water pick up, (when not running).

Ian wrote: It's possible that raw water cooled engines have an internal connection too, but I've never owned a raw water cooled boat before.

Ian,
Flushing connections such as the infamous CCfan "Timmy T" designed by Tim, are an add on.

Also, found the problem

Ian wrote: Also, found the problem

Wow, don't think I've ever seen that before. Sure explains it all.

Friend always says "nothing in moderation" your engine goes along with this.   If you are going to break it then blow it apart.
Good news is that you get a new engine in what appears to be a pretty nice boat.   

MrMcD wrote: If my eyes are seeing your picture well it looks like a visible broken camshaft? If the cam is broke you have bigger problems underneath.   Usually a broken rod comes around and breaks the camshaft like that. If the crankshaft took an impact shock from the broken rod the odds are it will have cracks also. Good thing you ordered a new engine.   With big damage the old engine may not qualify for a full core credit if your new motor was purchased with an exchange agreement.

Yeah, #4 rod snapped.
$500 core charge, I don't know for sure if this will qualify for core return.. I haven't pulled the bottom end yet, but with all of the coolant in the oil pan it likely has too much damage.

She's in pre-op now. Surgery will happen next week. She's getting a new heart!

MrMcD wrote: You should get at least a partial credit. The heads should be good. They will keep most of the $500 core credit but in reality you are giving them back one messed up engine. In the failure you have most often a rod bearing has gone out and locks that rod to the crankshaft, since it can no longer rotate the power of the other 7 cylinders pushing it snaps the bad rod and the remaining part swings around at engine speed hits the camshaft and punches holes in the cylinder wall.   A huge amount of damage done very quickly.   I have also seen similar damage when a piston pin locks in the piston. Same issue the rod can no longer rotate so it snaps and the damage starts.   Piston pin lock is usually caused by abnormal cylinder temps. Lean burn or timing.   The rod bearing failure is most often oil starvation which is usually seen at the rod farthest from the oil pump, #1 rod.

I just moved the boat from sea level to 6k feet.. so if anything it should be running rich..

But the longer I think about this, the more I question if I checked the oil before I ran it..

Either way, the engine is shot, and a new one is on order!

Ian wrote: Also, found the problem

Looks like factory big oval port heads? Do you know if your new motor will have those too?

I have run Champion for years with no issues.

If this engine still has a flat tappet camshaft, ( not a roller can engine ) make sure to follow the start up procedure to break in the new cam.
As soon as possible on start up it needs to be brought up to 1,500 to 2,300 RPM and kept above 1,500 for the first 20 minutes of run time. Failure to do this results in camshaft failure.
Some engine suppliers will run the engine to do this before selling the engine. Most do not.
A high quality oil is also necessary. The Diesel oils available from Delo and Rotella are cheap but have the right ZDDP to help with your break in.

On start up quickly check for oil and coolant leaks and get it spinning above 1,500 RPM.   Verify your timing is really close to proper setting.
Plan ahead make sure you have a way to keep it cool in this break in period.
The goal here is to get the lifters spinning as the engine is running. Once the lifters break into your camshaft it is good for life normally.

Enjoy your new toy, I hope it has lots of power.

I've heard some people like Ginger, some like Mary Ann and some like Gilligan

Same thing with spark plugs as oil, oil filters etc..........everybody has a favorite