I cannot get this engine to run right

If the photo is you engine those are shaft mounted rocker arm and non adjustable.
With these you tighten and leave them.   There is no 3/4 more at that point?

At this point I would pull the cap off the distributor and bump the key till you rotor points at the number one location. Verify what direction it turns. CW or CCW
Now go to your number one rocker arms, the exhaust and intake rocker should both be up showing both valves are closed and in the fire position.
If you reverse the engine a little the intake valve should start opening.
If you rotate forward a little the intake will close and both valves remain closed on the power stroke.
If you are off you may be 180 degrees out and that is an easy fix just relocating your plug wires or if you choose lift the distributor and rotate it 180.
Verify the basics and it will fre right up.

MrMcD wrote: If the photo is you engine those are shaft mounted rocker arm and non adjustable. With these you tighten and leave them.   There is no 3/4 more at that point?

A few rockers had to be shimmed, but they are all right around 3/4 turn. I can twist the pushrods when the valves should be closed meaning there isn't enough pressure on the pushrod to open/hang a valve.

MrMcD wrote: http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/uploads/14785/firing.png If this picture is of your engine those are non adjustable rocker arms. You just tighten them down and leave them.

However, you can adjust preload by adding shims if you need.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6529-a302?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-ford-performance-parts&gclid=CjwKEAjwytLKBRCX547gve7EsE4SJAD3IZV6_pUm97EaBYzOjBWi18PCQkFEC0lzlXhT-VmbZdzyZBoCoiPw_wcB

But yes, they are pedestal rocker arms meaning there is no adjusting beyond shims and new pushrods.

OK, now I get it. The last diagram was std rotation & not pertinent.

Any chance the cam timing chain could be off a tooth?

Well in this entire thread it sounds like you have everything under control when you get asked questions but...................you have a crappy running engine and have put up info that's been confusing , backwards and hard to follow.

You've been randomly unhooking plug wires for some reason known only to you and running on 4 cylinders or so .

I see in old posts your carburetor was a total mess, totally missing the main jets among other things, but you seemed to have straightened it out

How about an easy to read synopsis of what you've done and feel is right so far, it'll help you as much as it'll help people trying to help you.

Alright, let me write you a book here, starting all the way back.

Last season:

When initially purchased: (Last July/August)
1979 Correct Craft Mustang 17
Bone stock 302 w/ electronic ignition

Condition:
Boat ran decent enough, would top out around 43-45mph, accel enrichment feels good, WOT feels good, partial throttle feels good. Does puff some black smoke, oil needs to be changed probably every 15-20 hours because it gets thinned out so bad from over fueling. Has idle issues, especially when idling for longer periods of time.

Solution:
Take carb out, rebuild and verify everything.

Notes:
Main jets appear to be missing, however that was an error on my part. There was a mix up with the rebuild kit and it ended up being the carb was apart for a week and somehow the jets were moved from the location I put them. The carb rebuild had no effect on how the boat ran. Idle screws act as if they are unreactive as they do not cause a dip or increase in RPM no matter where they are set. However I can watch the mains start to flow when the idle screws are turned out too far. This is my first experience dealing with a Holley carburetor.

Additional notes:
Leakdown test performed to check the health of the engine, at 100psi I am getting 40-50% compression loss through the rings. Engine seems to run fine, but requires a rebuild in the future.

Current season:
1979 Correct Craft Mustang 17
Fully refreshed short block (block decked)
Forged Hypereutectic pistons (Ring's filed for n/a as listed by manufacturer)
Ford GT40P heads (fresh rebuild on both, heads decked)
Cylinder head volume measured at ~57cc for all ports.
Calculated 10:1 compression ratio.
Holley Red Marine electric fuel pump + fuel pressure regulator set at 5psi

Notes on build:
A few rockers needed to be shimmed after the heads and block were decked.
Valvetrain geometry verified with SBF specialist
Engine wiring completely redone (everything hooked up exactly the same)
Under dash wiring completely redone
Carburetor and ignition components remain untouched since last season

Initial fire:
Fired without issue, no valvetrain noise, but it lopes like an NHRA car. Still has idle issues so the low leak down test results did not seem to contribute to idle problems as much as anticipated. Ignition timing set to 10 BTDC at 650rpm, idle screws still unreactive in carb.

Current troubleshooting checklist:
Valvetrain - no hanging valves, no tight pushrods, nothing out of the ordinary
Ignition - all 8 cylinders receive spark, firing order verified as 1-8-4-5-6-2-7-3. Timing properly set so rotor faces #1 plug tower on #1 TDC compression stroke
Cylinder misfire test - Removed spark plug wires as engine is running to listen for change in idle rpm. Cylinders 2-3-5-6 do not cause a drop in RPM when spark plugs wires are pulled from cap.
Ignition test - Hooked each plug wire up to spark plug tester (Lisle 50850), all 8 cylinders are sparking
Leakdown test - Even with the rings not seated and a leaking o-ring because I had to modify an anti-fouler plug, it still shows a healthier leakdown than before it was rebuilt.

Actually as you were writing that I was out testing for spark on each cylinder. I used an old spark tester that looks like this, hooked it to a ground and all 8 cylinders do in fact spark consistently. Timing light should show the same results in this case.

SNobsessed wrote: Have you done a compression test after the rebuild? Doesn't seem logical to me that the corner cyls would get fuel but not the middle ones. Unless there is a problem with the intake manifold gasket or something odd like that.

Did a leakdown test, somebody broke my compression tester years ago and I haven't replaced it. Leakdown numbers show decent for not having the rings completely seated (80+ psi with the leakdown initial set at 100psi). You mention the intake manifold gasket, there are no problems there. I'm using an ARP intake manifold stud kit so there is no chance they would not be lined up.

One more item you may already know, the flooding carb probably wasted your last set of rings. Get it fixed before it hurts your brand new engine.

Driving me nuts, literally keeping me awake late thinking about it. Before I go to bed I pulled the bowls off and took a few pictures.

[QUOTE=KooK]



In this picture you're missing the o ring on the transfer tube from the accelerator pump.

That's the little tube right above the power valve.

Maybe you took it off, maybe it wasn't there

That'll give a very rich condition while it's running if that o ring is left out and make for spark plugs that look like yours and make the idle screws ineffective and make a crappy running engine.

KENO wrote: In this picture you're missing the o ring on the transfer tube from the accelerator pump. That's the little tube right above the power valve. Maybe you took it off, maybe it wasn't there That'll give a very rich condition while it's running if that o ring is left out and make for spark plugs that look like yours and make the idle screws ineffective and make a crappy running engine.

Boooooooooooooooooooooooooom, that was it. It runs better than it ever has. I have no idea if that o-ring was there in the first place but my God it's rock solid now... Thank you for pointing that out, holy hell!

BAM!!!!!   KENO, you are the man!
That was a great catch!
I saw that and ASSUMED he had taken it off or it popped off on tear down. Never assume I guess.
Nice work. KooK congratulations, send Keno some Beer!

Damn Ken

Ken got those Eagle eyes. Good job.