Damage boat project

Looks great, you already have the hang of it.

I would also wrap it up the transom some, just for good luck.

Super! Way to go Mike! So glad you're letting us see the project, step by step.

Very important question and answer about layered cloth/ resin versus resin. That hole is the center of stress for that rudder assembly. I can't tell either from the pics.

When I laid down the fiber I made a template of the hole. I cut the fiber so it was 1/2 inch wider than the hole to grab the edges of the hole. I made 2 peices the same then went 1/2 inch wider and did the same again. Before I laid any fiberglass down I coated around the hole and any cracks or delatmated parts with the resin. I checked it in the morning and it was hard as a rock.

I'm using this resin. I got 10 yards of woven roven for 10 bucks. http://m.fiberglasssupply.com/product.cgi?group=6113&product=6177

I once im done with glass I'm need some way to figure out where to put the hole for the rudder.   The strut mount I'm just going to drill from the under side.

Pete - what would be the downside of surface mounting?   Extra drag? Just wondering.

I driveshaft strut recess is still there. That mount only had one small crack. I'm just to add one or two layers on the underside strut recess. So the driveshaft angle won't be changed.
The rudder might have to be bolted to the bottom and stick out    I would seal it to help with the drag. But unless I was to cut into the bottom side of the fiber glass I just laid to make a recess it might not be worth the trouble.

Mike9812121298 wrote: The rudder might have to be bolted to the bottom and stick out    I would seal it to help with the drag. But unless I was to cut into the bottom side of the fiber glass I just laid to make a recess it might not be worth the trouble.

MrMcD wrote: I think it is worth the trouble to fix it right. I would finish the structure of the rudder support inside now that you have the location glassed and solid and then you could cut or grind the rudder mount box outside back to original shape so it mounts joust like the factory made it.

Mike,
I agree that the effort to recess the rudder port is worth the effort. You're doing a great job but I feel that you are missing some of our comments and suggestions. I and others mentioned making plastic spacers to mimic the recesses which would have been the easy way. Now, as Mark mentioned, the recess will need to be ground out. A template can be made for using a router to make a nice clean recess. I know Tim used the method for his BFN project. I'll see if I can find Tim's thread but now it's off to work for me!!

If you have any problems understanding what anyone of us is saying, please say so and we would be happy to explain it farther.

Mike,
Here's Tim's recess project in his BFN clearance improvement thread
Please take the time to review what Tim did.

I found this one. And it almost looks like the left side sticks up a little

Mike9812121298 wrote: I found this one. And it almost looks like the left side sticks up a little

Mike,
You can not compare pictures from another boat hull as to where the proper strut position (depth into the hull) is to your hull. They all differ. Have you watched the alignment video? It may give you a better idea of the strut position needed to align the prop shaft up with the log (hole in bottom of boat).

Mike,
I've been wondering what you've been up to! How did the strut to log and then the shaft to engine alignment go?

Before you start smearing on that hull you should really ask

I try to do some work on the boat every day. I've been pulling some late nights because I've been working 7 days a week 9-10 hrs a day. Headed down south this sat to pick up a 1972 Kawasaki h2 750. That's the next project. Getting a greatly good deal on it.

The drive shaft will need a shim because it sits about 1/4 inch above. I just did a temp installl because I got excited to get a look at it. Picked up a used oj 14-16 prop for 70 bucks.   I wanted to get a good baseline with the boat. Tonight I'll try to finish up the sanding and hopefully get to gel coat by this weekend.

Bondo is polyester resin mixed with talc. They whip it to make it lighter. It absorbs water big time.    There is still time to sand it off. Epoxy resin with cabosil would be a much more permanent filler.

yikes.... Well, I don't want to rain on your parade, but I am thinking that BONDO is a big mistake, especially below the waterline.     Polyester body fillers especially the automotive type are hygroscopic, meaning they absorb water. There are marine fillers (evercoat makes one), but they are not for below the waterline IIRC. Polyester fillers are also brittle, and not meant for areas that are going to experience flexing or substrate movement.      I would suggest that you do some sanding and get that stuff off.   Break out the epoxy, and thicken it (cabosil, micro balloons, talc, etc) to use as filler.    That is water proof and will hold up well in a high stress, underwater application.      You are making good progress, but I think that the speed of your repair is causing you to make some critical mistakes. Leaving the BONDO in place will likely have you redoing your repair, fixing the blisters in the gel, or trying to contain the gel repair area after the BONDO comes off in large chunks when it delaminates from the glass, or cracks from the flexing.   Your skill set and speed are impressive,   I love watching your progress, and would love to see this boat back on the water.   Worst case, your whole repair is compromised and the boat ends up on the bottom... sometimes when I think who's going to be in my boat/car, etc. it causes me to re-think my easy solutions.