Best way to replace cutlas.

I haven't seen anyone remove a coupler with a puller. Not even sure there's room to try.

Jody was just talking about how he pulls the engine to install the XPC dripless shaft seal. I'm rolling the engine in spring to do a cutlass. Fussing with the interference fit couplers is indeed nonsense.

Clearly it's not just me, the resident PROFESSIONAL doesn't fux with them either. Later hobbyist...

Sorry, I'm NOT removing the strut. Just the shaft and replacing the cutlas. Might have to get an A.R.E.

TRBenj wrote: Going ARE if your shaft is bent is not a bad idea... it's the same price (or cheaper) than a new single taper shaft + coupler. If your coupler is good, I might price out a shaft-only replacement though? If close in cost, dual taper is pretty nice.

Then just cut the old shaft out and be done, easiest way going about it IMO. Packing on rudder also while its out.
I'm only hobbist though

Yeah, the packing in the nut for the rudder, thats what I should have said

SWANY wrote: Yeah, the packing in the nut for the rudder, thats what I should have said

You're still losing me Joel... why repack the rudder when the driveshaft is out? Other than maybe having the floor panel off, what work are you saving by doing them both at once? Unless the rudder is leaking or maybe if it's loooong overdue, why not leave it be?

Chris,
Dial indicate the shaft both in the middle and especially at the end of the prop taper. If it's bent as you suspect, cut it out and go with the ARE. If not, then as mentioned you have the choices of ether pulling the engine, pulling the trans flange or just cut it anyway and go ARE..

No, there isn't enough room to get a puller on the flange and the reason the spacer and bolt trick is used. Even if there was room for the puller say if the engine or the shaft was out of the boat it's not the best idea. With the arms of the puller being on the outside diameter of the flange, there's a strong chance of bending/warping the flange. With the bolt trick, there's less of a chance since the bolt holes are closer to the center of the flange. Yes, it's an interference fit and they can be a real problem getting them off. Then, there's the issue of getting it back on with the heat shrink process!

BTW, when was the last time the alignment was checked on the 176?   

TRBenj wrote: You mentioned removing the strut... now that is something I would try to avoid at all costs... getting it perfectly lined up when reinstalling can be pretty tricky..

Tim,
I agree. There's just enough slop in the 4 hull holes and strut base to kick it out of alignment when you tighten it up. Then at the very minimum you need to unbolt the shaft coupling at the trans and make sure the shaft is happy at the position of the strut. If not, then you need to go mess with the strut again or leave it as is and blow the new cutlass bearing in a relatively short time!! ,

Oh no! Chicken little say's the sky is falling the sky is falling!


Alternative process is always hard for the archaic mind to comprehend!
Have done a number of struts in the manor described above in most all brands of inboard boat and never had any issues realigning. The Correct Craft Nautique 176 actually has a pretty precise mounting platform for it's strut assembly. There are many way's to accomplish the same outcome and have done the strut bushing/cutlass refit both way's in many different boats and will in the future assess direction of the that job depending on the boat. However in the case of that generation Correct Craft I will continue to remove strut and proceed with what I described above and would recommend it to the DYI hobbyist as an alternative to the potential can of worms that is otherwise discussed.

Do any of you own a Meloon Crafted Strut Tweeker???

Ah so there is a name for that tool? Ha.

I've used one of those before... tweaking a strut that is snugged down but sealant is still uncured can be done with a BFH as well.

I actually like the way Jody's described. I ended up needing to pull the strut anyways for an alignment. Could have loosen the bolts and shimmed put I need to re-bed the 4200. I made marks where the strut was on the hull before I loosened it, put it right back where it was.

SWANY wrote: I made marks where the strut was on the hull before I loosened it, put it right back where it was.

Joel,
FYI and to others, I'd like to mention that putting the strut back to were it was isn't always the best idea. It could have been bent at one time plus, it may not have been installed correctly at the factory! Always check it by using the shaft through the center of the log and making sure the shaft is happy (turns freely) in the struts position.

I think the OP has left the building . . .

If the shaft is within tolerance..............( .003?????) What place has the best deals on cutlass bearings? 1" od

Not to confuse things, but the .003 figure is on the FACE of the coupler not on the shaft. That being said, the shaft should be as straight as possible, especially in the last 12" or so.
The site sponsors would be a source.. Also check "DeepBlueYachtSupply.Com"
Can't locate the receipt for my tapered coupling but I paid about $65 for it, not sure where I bought it.   Have fun sawing it out

8122pbrainard wrote: The .003" is the TIR on the shaft! When facing the coupling face, I sure hope whomever is truing it up to it's bore can et it closer than the .003!    I'd like to add that the ARE taper at the trans is very short (steep) since many of out boats do not have the room for a regular taper between the trans and stuffing gland..

Pete, The .003 figure that I was referring to was the feeler gage used to set the alignment to. And yes, the coupling assembled should be near perfect before attempting to align the shaft to the trans. The taper per inch is the same on both ends of mine, just shorter not steeper. Terminology here is misleading.
1" in 16" taper is S.A.E. Specification J755 spec.   Anyway, whoever machines the shaft should fit it to the supplied coupling. Duane