GT40 fuel pumps inoperative

I added the fix to the diagnosis thread:
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25584&PID=503419񺹻

I think one difference Pete is that a ford vehicle has only one pump,it's in the tank keeping cool and pushing. Don't think for one second that they were immune from fuel issues either. The mechanic at work went thru a lot of fuel pumps on Fords and Chevy's too. He showed us that by turning on the key and hitting the bottom of the fuel tank you could get it going again. It seems the motor would start to fail by loosing a segment. If it would stop on that dead segment,it would not go again when you turned the key back on. One thing I think that helps on our 2 boats is the engine compartment being so large and the venting on either side of it that DD boats don't have

Want to thank everyone and give a summary of what I found.

Turns out there were three different problems and I am not sure which was the original problem but I think it was the failure of the LP pump. I also had lanyard switch and HP pump issues.

I did all the voltage testing suggested by lewy2001 (thank you) and found no problems with relays, etc. I tinned some 20 gauge wire to insert into the power connector at the LP pump so I could test the voltage there and found 12V. So I replaced the LP pump and the new LP pump would run but boat still not start. I started to replace the HP pump but found that when I took the FCC canister off, that the wiring connectors were no longer connected.

My first trouble shooting step had been to replace the HP fuel filter. Apparently when replacing the filter, and while twisting the canister back into place, the pump was turning along with the canister and twisted the wiring connectors until they came loose.

I used glycerine to lube the pump so it would not turn in the filter turned within the canister and glycerine on the filter plastic so the filter would not turn. After re-installing the filter the boat started and ran fine.

I then put my safety lanyard switch back in. The boat started fine so I left it. Next day, the boat would not start so I bypassed the lanyard switch again and it starts fine again. So, sometime I developed an intermittent problem with the switch.

thank you to everyone who took the time to respond!

David I doubt that you have the 50 amp in line fuse. If you did it would be in the battery box. Not sure what year they were phased out but 2000 would be pretty close.



Have you checked the voltage at the breakers on rear of engine?

6oA is main power 15A is fuel pump power and 12.5A is EEC power

The little big tail wires are just short wires about 6" with male and female spade connectors on them so you can measure all the voltages with the relays in circuit.

there are less than 200 hours on the boat. The hour meter was working when I first bought the boat and it had 46 hours. I installed a PPass on it at the time and set the hours to 46. It now has something less than 200 hours. For real.

A 2000 model GT40 will have slightly different wiring based around the keypad and gateway box. The wiring loom to the engine should be almost the same. If the pumps do not run when you ground the STO then you have no power to your pumps. The EEC relay actually activates the fuel pump relay. Check voltages at the EEC relay terminal 87. They do have 5 pins but only 4 pins are used. You may need to make up 4 little pigtail leads for the relay so you can get at the terminals for testing. I would firstly check that all the breakers on the back of engine have 12Volts on both sides of breaker and then go onto the EEC relay from there.

Other thread

How many hours are on the boat now?

Oh that's juicy. Black is Red! No wonder you needed the toolbox. There's gotta be some very special goggles in there that make all things look right.

He might need an OBD1 connector too--but I PM'ed him a photo of that already. Sure hope we get green2000 in action soon. We all know the feeling and frustration that these kinds of things bring to early Summer, don't we? Wish we could all just jump in with our tools, hands, and eyeballs but this is the second best I guess. Reminds me of operating with one of those Da Vinci remote surgical consoles but without the camera.

gun-driver wrote: Check your wire connections in the pump. Didn't someone just find corroded/ broken wires in the pump at the connectors not to long ago.

Gary

Green 2000 says both of his relays are the same. Is that a possible issue? I thought they're the same too.

I wonder if this will help,I think this is where I'd start-

I had symptoms identical to yours before you changed the FCC. Mine would start then die. Sometimes I could fool it into running by keeping the ignition switch in the engage position even after it started for a few more seconds then it would keep running.

I replaced the Low Pressure Fuel Pump. Solved. It was slowly dying. Maybe take the risk like I did. You'll not go broke buying an LPP. You'll rule out one of the common failures of these engines and have it to do when you return from your trip.

The next step is tracing the wiring is in manual L:19046 start at Step 3H-8 on page 248. Also take the 3 minutes and jumper the safety lanyard. All you have to do is connect the 2 wires behind it together and turn the key. That is an easy test. I also sent you a link to manuals on Planet Nautique. The engine manual is the same for 2000 as 1997. They changed the dash but your engine harness is the same.   1997 had the 20 amp fuse by the battery. The newer boats eliminated that fuse(well at least the ones I have run across).

tryathlete wrote: PIP sensor is worth checking.

The PIP sensor only comes into play when the engine is rotating. The fuel pumps will come on when the ignition is turned on. If you don't have spark check the PIP but the fuel rail will get pressure regardless of the PIP.