351 W stops after being shut off wont start

Did you confirm loss of spark when this happens? I did not see that.

shierh wrote: In my old boat i converted to pertronix ignitors.

I'm always curious about why? Dwell a problem?

In my old boat i converted to pertronix ignitors. worked beautifully.   Because it was an offshore boat and we typically traveled over 35miles out i carried 2 spares but never had an issue during the 6 years we ran it.   only thing that happened was the coil on starboard engine came apart, end shot out, screw was loose and oil leaked out.   That was a pertronix flame thrower coil. after that i pulled coil on other engine and tightened up the screw before it became an issue.   

The distributor I dropped in had Vacuum advance but we did not hook it up. It has no advantage in a boat because the engines are under load all the time. In a car it really helps but not in a boat.. Before ordering any distributor make sure you check your clearances.
The one we installed barely had room. The Ford is pretty tight for space.

Thanks,

Did the new Distributor just drop in or would you suggest professional install. Do you have the part #. The ones I see on the net have a vacuum advance?

Commodore Bob

The base in the distributor is gone. So the chance of a retro fit would cost me a whole new distributor.

Thanks

Commodore Bob

phillipsrj wrote: I really don't like points but I would rather get a good replacement EI if one is available. Commodore Bob

Bob,
Personally I don'y feel there is a good EI conversion replacement When they go bad, they can strand you out in the middle of the lake. Because of this, there are some who even carry a spare module on board! With a point set, unlike a EI which typically works or doesn't, points going will typically cause some engine stumbling. A quick cleanup of the contact faces will get you home. As mentioned, if a EI is the way someone wants, the way to go is a DUI which is a complete distributor replacement. There are no performance gains by just dropping in a EI module. Points have worked since the turn of the century after the "hit and miss" ignitions. I have gone YEARS without even pulling a cap off a distributor. The only issue you may have with going back to a point set is not having the base plate for them inside your distributor. Did the PO by chance include the plate when he sold it?

You haven't mentioned why you don't like points. I'm curious.

As HW mentioned, do you have a friend who is more acquainted with engines who could help out?

Bob,
How did you select the coil? What voltage is going to the coil? Some are internally resisted dropping the voltage and others need the ballast resistor to drop the volts before the coil. It's a white ceramic piece about 2" long next to the main breaker on the aft end of the engine.

I have no Idea what a ballast resistor is or where to look for it? Any pics?

Commodore Bob

The EI was done before I purchased the Boat. I will try the test. Are coils supposed to be very hot? I really don't like points but I would rather get a good replacement EI if one is available. Any suggestions?

Thank you very much.
Commodore Bob

8122pbrainard wrote: phillipsrj wrote: Coil is warm. And NEW. Same problem as with the old coil. It has electronic conversion. Commodore Bob I suspect the EI conversion. Put the point set back in.

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I have a 1986 Correct Craft Martinique that starts and runs strong. After I shut it down it will not re-start. Even with starting fluid! It does not act like it is flooded.

Replaced coil, ignition switch and put in modern water/ fuel filter.

10/24/15 I finally got her back into the drink! Ran good for a half hour then I brought her back and the same thing happened . She would not re-start after setting about 10 minutes.
What I did is pull a plug and check for spark. (No spark) Before that I put 1 OZ of fuel down the carb. No pops or trying to start. I SAY IGNITION! NOW the boat has been converted to EI before I got it> I pulled the dist. cap and the EI was really hot as well as the new coil I had just put in. ( I could not put my finger on it for a count to five ) The distributor cap looked ok, clean and the posts were not funky.

SOME SAY VAPOR LOCK BUT THAT WOULD NOT STOP THE SPARK

The engine runs at temps between 160 and 180 ..180 when pulling hard. Is the engine running too hot? Normally between 160 and 170 in warm Florida water.
What Say Correct Craft Guys & Gals?
Commodore Bob

Bob,
Do check for spark. If the timing is off even more than 10 degrees, the engine will run. As HW mentioned, it sounds like you just like throwing parts at it. Don't!! Do some testing first.

I have done the work myself. We have only owned the boat since June. It already had the electronic ignition installed. I could not get the gas filter apart so I replaced it with a new style spin on (same problem before and after the swap) but now the filter is easy to change. I checked all cells in the battery and all are good. I thought maybe the coil was soft so I replaced it from Nautique Parts. Then the ignition switch was sticky so just to be sure I replaced it.

I know enough about Motors to get into trouble. Some suggest the timing is too advanced?
Up to 1986 I guess it is 6 deg. b-4 TDC and after 86 10 deg. May try that. Also I can take off the fuel feed to the carb and crank it and see if the fuel pump is working. (It does not smell or act flooded)

If I have spark and I have fuel it must be the carb? Float or?

Commodore Bob THINKING ALOUD

If you know of someone that understands older inboards send them my way. I will even bring the boat to them. I'm Retired