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1984 Nautique Starter Issues

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    Posted: August-27-2015 at 10:53pm
I have a 1984 Nautique that will not engage the starter when I turn the switch. I can cross the solenoid and it will engage the stater. Is the problem my switch or the solenoid?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-27-2015 at 11:16pm
Terry,
Get the VOM (volt Ohm meter) out and see if you are getting 12 volts to the starter relay (solenoid) when you turn the key. If you are, make sure the solenoid has a good ground to it's base. If not, see if you are getting the 12 volts out of the ignition switch. If you are, there's a wiring problem. If not, you ether have a bad switch or no 12 volts going to the switch. Get back to us with the results.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-27-2015 at 11:23pm
Terry,
I forgot to mention the NSS ()neutral safety switch). It's on the trans and will open the circuit from the ignition switch to the start relay if you aren't in neutral or the switch is bad. Ohm it out to check.

I saw your other post. 10 volts is bad. Where did you get that reading? Are your battery terminals clean? Are your cables in good shape?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Terry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2015 at 12:57pm
The 10 volts is showing on my volt meter on the dash.I can shortcut the starter solenoid and start the engine, it just will not start when I turn the key switch.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2015 at 1:18pm
If you are only getting 10 volts at the dash (and therefore the Ignition Switch), you need to start there. If you check the voltage right at the battery posts, what do you get?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Terry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2015 at 1:27pm
I get 12 volts at the battery.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2015 at 1:39pm
You need to check your connections then. You're losing voltage from the battery to your ignition switch. Try cleaning the connections. Some have even run a new feed to the dash.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2015 at 1:50pm
Eh, he didn't say he had 10 volts at the key switch. There could be 12 at the key and 10 at the gauge. The loss could be on the way to the gauge.

Get a voltmeter and check for 12 volts at the relay on the S post when you turn the key to start. If you do, the starter relay is bad. If you don't, check to see if you get 12 volts to the NSS. It's a pretty simple system.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Terry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2015 at 2:40pm


I get 2 volts to a white bar on top of the solenoid. I can remove the two wires and check them and I get 12 volts with them disconnected from whatever that bar is.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Terry Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2015 at 2:43pm
I called the repair shop and they told me it will be two weeks before they can get to it. The reason I keep on asking you is I want to go the lake today.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2015 at 2:47pm
HW is spot on.

I made some assumptions that may not be correct. If the voltage "at the dash" was actually just your dash gauge reading, then you still should fix that. Either your gauge is bad or you have a voltage drop somewhere leading to it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2015 at 2:51pm
Terry, that white bar is a ballast resistor that is part of the ignition circuit. It shouldn't have anything to do with the starting circuit, at least as far as getting the engine to crank over.

Stick to HW's diagram and start tracing the voltage from the S post on the starter relay and work your way back.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2015 at 3:01pm
While holding the key to the "Start" position, use your volt/ohm meter to check voltage at:

#1. S post on starter relay (if 12V is present, relay is bad) If 12V not present, move on...

#2. Neutral safety switch at the transmission. Check both in and out terminals. If you are getting 12V at both, you have a bad wire between NSS and your Relay. If you have 12V in but not out, then your trans is either not in neutral or your switch is bad. If you don't have 12V in, then move on...

#3. Ignition switch "S" terminal. If you have 12V here but not at the NSS, then your wire is bad between the two. If you don't have 12V at the "S" terminal, move on...

#4. Ignition switch "B" terminal. If you have 12V here, then your ignition switch it bad. If you don't have 12V, keep tracing this back .......
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2015 at 7:37pm
12 volts does not indicate a fully charged battery. How old is it?
Terry,
As mentioned in this thread as well as the other thread on the same subject, you need to get more voltage readings to trace the problem. Does the engine turn normally or slow when you shunt the start relay?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader144 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-10-2015 at 9:25pm
Hi i have an 88 Nautique 351 and am using this post to check an issue with my starter.
Starter is about 1 year old, batter is about 3 months old.

It will turn but the gears only engage the flywheel for a split second and then it turns without touching the flywheel. I get one click when I turn the ignition on.

When removed, it all works fine using the same block ground. But when installed, it will not engage the flywheel..

I have:
1. Sanded and cleaned the ground connection between starter and block.
2. Run power directly to starter from the battery to ensure it gets 12 volts.
3. have 10.8 volts at the S post on the starter relay on the back of the engine
4. have 10.8 volts at the solenoid which is directly on top of the starter - but even when running a wire straight from the battery it doesn't help engage the flywheel.

On the post "While holding the key to the Start position", I have a few questions:
Is the Solenoid box on the diagram actually the second solenoid/relay that sits on the back of the engine or is it the solenoid that sits directly on top of the starter?

Why should the S post have less than 12 volts?

What voltage should I have at the starter relay S post?

What voltage should the neutral safety switch have on either side?

David
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-10-2015 at 11:38pm
David,
Your voltage reading of 10.8 is low telling me your battery is bad or the cables are bad. Is the battery a deep cycle?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader144 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2015 at 5:32am
Thank you for the fast response. I checked and it is a
Marine deep cycle battery and I have had no issues starting it for several months.
I bought it new a few months ago and it has faithfully eaCh time.


Seemns like under a load it won't engage shatter flywheel

I have jnr

David
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2015 at 6:45am
David,
You need a starting battery. A deep cycle is designed for a small amp load for long periods of time like a trolling motor. The high amp draw of engine starting will damage a deep as indicated by your low voltage reading. Many have made the mistake thinking they need a "marine" battery and ended up with a deep. A regular starting battery just like you put in your car works great. The only difference with a marine is the addition of threaded studs besides the lug type terminals on ether a deep or starting battery. Do check your battery cables for signs of corrosion especially if they are the originals from 1988. Even if they look good, but are the originals, I suggest new ones. Go with a heavier gauge and in this case do go with "marine" rated cables which are a higher quality and all the strands of wire are tin plated. When you are getting the new battery, pick up one of the battery post cleaners. They have a male and female wire brush for both the battery lugs and the cable terminal ends.

How about some picture? we love them!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader144 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2015 at 11:22am
Thank you.

I just hooked up my car battery (largest most powerful battery I could find and was from NAPA) and the same issue is happened.

I turn the key, the starter click and the starter motor turns without engaging the flywheel.

Any other ideas?

If my picture uploaded I know I have some explaining to do as to why the new port side exhaust and will do so in the proper topic,

David
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2015 at 11:30am
David,
Take some more voltage readings. At the battery (on the lug posts), at the start relay (on the back of the engine),both in and out, then at the starter itself. This should tell you if there's a voltage drop. Did you take a good look at your battery cables? As mentioned, they are suspect.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2015 at 11:46am
There is the small possibility that you have a couple chipped off flywheel teeth.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader144 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2015 at 12:42pm
I put the deep cycle on a charge over night and put it back in just to have a circuit.

Then I used my 1 year old car battery and jumped it directly to the starter and it just spins.
My cables are ok looking and will be replaced as recommend but the boat started several times a few hours earlier and has had no problems at all.

Right before the problem the starter had a VERY hard time turning the flywheel and then it just stopped engaging the flywheel.

I have all the plugs out to remove the compression thinking the starter is disengaging because the motor will not turn..

Voltage with car battery installed and the starter is running:

After breaker on engine 12 v both sides
6 volts at transmission switch
6 volts coming out of rear engine relay going to transmission switch
8 volts coming out of rear engine relay going to red starter wire
12 volts out of relay on big black cable to starter

Thank you!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader144 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2015 at 12:53pm
The teeth looked ok. I turned the engine by hand to see if it would help but no difference

With power off the Starter appears to engage when direct from car battery and will not turn

With power on from the deep cycle and using the car battery direct to the starter it will not engage the engine

David
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2015 at 1:10pm
David,
All the low voltage readings are concerning. The readings are with the starter running correct? What about without the starter running? Somethings pulling the volts down and now it's pointing the starter if not the cables.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader144 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2015 at 1:24pm
Yes all with starter spinning and car battery only

Here are the readings without starter spinning and key and ignition breaker on:
11.8v either side of breaker on engine rear
Zero on rear engine relay post going to transmission switch and zero at transmission
11.8v big black cable on relay going to starter
Zero at relay post on red wire going to starter

David
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader144 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2015 at 1:31pm
Here are the readings at the starter:

When not spinning I have 12v at the black cable from the relay. This drops to 8 when it spins.

The others are zero when not spinning and 8v when spinning

David
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader144 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2015 at 1:40pm
So sounds like it is the solenoid on the starter.

does it have to be a marine solenoid or can it be an automotive solenoid?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2015 at 1:55pm
David,
A fully charged 12 volt battery is 12.6 volts.The 11.8 is ether bad cables/connections a under charged or bad battery. I suggested getting a voltage reading off the battery lugs and then to the battery side of the start relay to see if there's a voltage drop. It may be a good idea to have the battery load tested and the starter checked. Before getting a RR starter, open it up, clean up the commutator (the segmented copper section at the end of the armature and Clean lube the bushings. Check to see if there are any signs of the armature dragging on the field. Then, I'd put a new set of brushes in it.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader144 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2015 at 4:09pm
Ok after a lot of work and a lot of learning here I have 11.8 v at the red wire going into the magnet when starter is spinning but still not engaging the flywheel.

The battery is showing 12.6 v.

I have 12.5v at the large black cable going into starter without spinning starter and 11.4v when spinning the starter.

I tested the magnet and starter off motor and they work.
One thing I noticed that with breaker off and key off, and the magnet removed from the starter, depressing the magnet arm powers the starter. Not sure how it is getting power with the key off and ignition breaker off.

I cleaned the magnet posts and nuts and screws. There was some corrosion and made sure it and the starter can actuate easily back and forth.

Is 11.8 v at the magnet enough to indicate that it is no longer a voltage problem?

David



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2015 at 4:20pm
The 12.6 to 11.8 still concerns me. Without a load, the drop should be less so I'still suspect battery cables.

When you say "magnet", I assume you mean the coil of the solenoid on the starter and saying it works meaning it pulls correct?

The 11.8 should activate the solenoid on the starter without a problem but under load when the voltage drops off to the 8, it may not and the reason the starter is engaged at first and then just spins. We're back to finding the cause of the drop.


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