2000 SN Stiff steering

So we've changed the steering cable twice in about 5ish years and it didn't make any noticeable difference in steering stiffness. The steering is really easy when stationary but under power, it takes a lot of effort.

We inspected the rudder packing before replacing it to see what size we needed. When everything was reinstalled, we added some grease to the packing and the rudder shaft. This made a huge difference and the boat was a dream to drive! Figuring the packing was done for, we replaced the packing and reassembled everything with grease with fantastic results. After a couple weeks, it seems like the grease wears off and the stiffness goes back to crap.

Any idea what's causing this? Is there supposed to be a seal or anything at the bottom of the rudder?

How much slop is there between the rudder port and the shaft?

Usually excessive rudder shaft to port clearance makes for hard steering under load because it binds the shaft in the port barrel.

The point loading causing issues under heavy rudder loading is certainly what it seems like.

So realistically the only fix is to either continue greasing the rudder shaft and packing regularly...or...replace both the shaft and rudder port because our current one is likely too worn?

Is there any up and down movement? I would think there would be when you had 2 rings of packing vs three. When you tighten the bolt from the top it's not pulling the arm down and binding it to the packing nut is it ?

Waternut wrote: 3 rings didn't allow the tiller arm to sit flush with the top of the rudder. The only way to make it flush was to overtighten the packing nut which made the rudder extremely difficult to move even while stationary. 2 rings allowed the packing nut to sit lower but yes there is a little bit of up/down movement in the rudder now. About 1/8".

What size packing are you using?

Seen your post on BOS about the same issue.   I noticed here you didn't add the fact that the boat steers hard to the right. Do you think the 1/4" packing is too big?

Let's have a pic of the trim tab on the rudder. I have mine probably 1/16" off from dead center and that provides plenty of rudder load. If the tab is tweaked one way or another in any major way, or the rudder has been ground, it would change steering feel significantly.

Waternut wrote: Right now it's pushed as far to the drivers side as it'll go.

Well, at least set it neutral for the purposes of getting 1 more variable out of play. Putting it all the way one way or another should impart a dramatic difference in rudder load.

As for the prop, perhaps borrow somebody else's just to try it out. Do you know what the diameter, pitch, and cup on the prop is? Stainless props were cool in the 90's but these days it's all CNC props or nothing.

I don't know the specs on that stainless prop. I'll see if we can borrow a friends prop soon. My boat has a 1:1 transmission or I'd try my CNC prop.

We've tried about every grease imaginable and yes the stiffness returns in a matter of weeks. The best grease I've ever used was some stuff I have in a small (and very expensive) tub and that lasted a month or two. I've never seen this stuff in a tube though. The grease fitting in the above picture did nothing because we couldn't get grease in it when everything was tightened down.

I added an additional grease fitting near the top, pulled the spring ball out of the lower one, and allowed tiny gaps in the packing to let grease pass through from the top to the bottom. Time will tell if that helps but the goal was to try and get some grease in there from time to time without having to drop the rudder.

1:1 in a 2000?

Im with Orlando 76 and Hollywood. The zerk fitting should be on the Bronze base not the nut. the Gease is going on top of the packing not underneath into the shaft. Just my thought!

well... my 99 doesn't have a zerk either but the 83 MC has one right on the bronze about an inch up from the bottom plate... that is where I'd put one.

I bet that helps your steering

Maybe we'll add another zerk fitting at the bottom if the top one won't push grease down far enough next time the steering gets a little stiff.

I didn't think to check for straightness but the rudder slid in smoothly until it hit the packing and then just a slight nudge more and it was in. Considering the close tolerance between the 2 parts, I would think it's pretty straight.

Hollywood wrote: Sure it's not a helm problem?

The wheel is superlight when the cable isn't connected to the rudder. It doesn't feel like it would freewheel if you give it a flick but like there is nothing there.