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(Cracked Block) - Sudden Milky Oil - 351w

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LeftFieldEngineering View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeftFieldEngineering Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2015 at 6:01pm
15 min on the water & my luck ran out. We're back to milky oil.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2015 at 6:56pm
Exhausts or intake would be my guess. Spark plugs dry?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeftFieldEngineering Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2015 at 8:07pm
Yes the plugs are dry + I pressure tested the exhaust manifolds with a block-off plate when I had the risers off I couldn't hear or see any thing.

I'm most likely going to pull the motor and start taking it apart.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2015 at 8:42pm
Andy,
Since the plugs are dry and you did pressure test the manifolds, I as Gary mentioned, suspect somethings up with the intake manifold. Check the T stat area real good. The area has been reported to be a problem.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2015 at 9:48pm
I agree, pop the intake off before committing to pulling the motor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2015 at 11:07pm
Andy,
If you don't have a Magnaflux Spotcheck kit I suggest getting one.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeftFieldEngineering Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2015 at 11:56pm
Ya I picked up one similar the other day, it should be here early this week.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeftFieldEngineering Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 4:34pm
Well you guys were right about one thing; pulling the intake did find my problem. Too bad it's a crack in the block. Didn't need the crack checker to find this baby, hell Helen Keller could have found this thing.







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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimsport93 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 5:13pm
That sucks! So sorry to hear that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 6:20pm
That is too bad
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 6:21pm
Nothing a little JB Weld won't fix! When you pull the head, it will be interesting to see how far it goes. As already mentioned, that sucks!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeftFieldEngineering Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 6:48pm
Actually it was quite foolish of me to think that after rebuilding every other part of the boat the motor would be any different. In reality I'm still quite lucky, (as I mentioned it before) the problem presented it self by puking oil all over the place on my warmup run last week. Had this not happen I would have probably smoked all the internals skiing that day. With oil pressure still at 40-60 psi and running like a champion I have no reason to believe the rest of the motor is bad.

Looks to me like it's pullmotorfindblockrebuildmotorcocktailtime.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeftFieldEngineering Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 9:05pm
Step one: complete   (good thing I didn't throw out my motor stand)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 9:26pm
Bummer. Junk yard 351 and a few gaskets and you're in business. I'd look for a 1-piece block and get the RH seal on order. Don't forget the new damper!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeftFieldEngineering Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 10:01pm
I'll keep an eye open for the 1 piece block. A guy at work has a 351 already in pieces he's willing let go for under 100 bucks. I also have another friend who's brother rebuilds motors and he said it may even be repairable. I'll have to pull the head and see just what's going on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Smithfamily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2015 at 7:27am
Sorry to hear that, but I have to say, you don't waste any time moving forward!!
Js
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2015 at 11:40am
www.car-part.com is your friend search for a 95 ish engine for an f150. Don't search engine block cause they wont list just the block, and don't search 83, cause engines that old aren't common and they wont cross to the common ones because they assume you want the newer accessories.   I did a quick search and showed a few options around 400 bucks within 50 miles of you. If you tell them you are just going to tear it down for the block they might give you a deal because they don't need to worry about any warranty.   With quick cylinder hone and some new rings,.maybe some new bearings if you are feeling rich...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2015 at 12:02pm
Sorry that happened to you Andy, after all that hard work and how excited you were to get it out on the water. Clearly you have the ability to address it,   Hope to see having it out on the water again soon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote halfnelly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2015 at 12:10pm
Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

www.car-part.com is your friend search for a 95 ish engine for an f150. Don't search engine block cause they wont list just the block, and don't search 83, cause engines that old aren't common and they wont cross to the common ones because they assume you want the newer accessories.   I did a quick search and showed a few options around 400 bucks within 50 miles of you. If you tell them you are just going to tear it down for the block they might give you a deal because they don't need to worry about any warranty.   With quick cylinder hone and some new rings,.maybe some new bearings if you are feeling rich...
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94+ 351w blocks are also hydraulic roller ready
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2015 at 12:29pm
and a 95 bronco or f250 is likely to have the roller lifters and spider present, but if he is going back to a RH engine the cam to go with them is something that doesn't exist in the wild
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote halfnelly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2015 at 12:31pm
Forgot it was a righty, rats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeftFieldEngineering Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2015 at 1:49pm
After calling in every favor I could I manged to scrounge up a few potential blocks. I also called a couple engine shops to see what rebuilds cost these days.

Here are the current options:

1 A.) Pull the head and see if it's fixable. If it is; send to my friends brother to nickle weld the water jacket, install a new head gasket, reinstall the intake and give it another shot. ($200-$400)

1 B.) Same as 1A, but trade some fab work for a set of re-manufactured heads and install them with 2 new head gaskets after the repair. ($300-$600)

2.) Get a parts 351w from a friend, strip & dye check the block, buy a rebuild kit & send it off to my friends brother for a top to bottom rebuild. ($600-$1000)

3.) Send the motor to a local engine builder; new block, rings, pistons, bearings, gaskets, rebuilt heads, returned ready to install, with a 3 week lead time and a 1 year warranty ($3200)

4.) Pick up re-manufactured long block with 2 yr warranty, buy new exhaust manifolds, new damper plate, dye check my intake & swap over the rest of my gear. ($3000)

Option 3 and 4 would normally be off the table, however my parents completely shocked me and showed some interested in donating to the cause. Perhaps it was all those years of yard work when I lived at home or maybe they just want unlimited boat rides. Whatever the reason I'm not going to turn it down, every penny gets me one step closer to the lake.

As for the rest of the money I'm going to have to get creative. That being said if you happen to know anybody looking for a custom Nautique bar, fabricated parts or CNC plasma signs, you know where to find 'em
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2015 at 2:32pm
I would go with #2. If you're going to put any money into heads, just buy some reman'd gt40p's as they're superior to the stock e7's and will only cost $100 over reworking what you have.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote connorssons Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2015 at 2:32pm
how much for bar
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2015 at 2:24pm
Why heads, I thought it was just the block that was cracked.
What heads are in it now and what is offered in the trade?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2015 at 2:27pm
Originally posted by halfnelly halfnelly wrote:



94+ 351w blocks are also hydraulic roller ready


Not nessasarrly
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote halfnelly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2015 at 2:51pm
Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:

Originally posted by halfnelly halfnelly wrote:



94+ 351w blocks are also hydraulic roller ready


Not nessasarrly


Irrelevant anyway, it's RHR.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LeftFieldEngineering Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2015 at 3:27pm
I had started haggling for these heads before I was aware of the block crack. Just like Tim I like keep piles of spare parts around "just in case". Although they were stock heads, they were recently rebuild and had no more then 20 hours on them. Doesn't much matter, I'm not going to need them now. Instead I'm going to do something I didn't think I would do; sell my boat.. Of course I'm talking about my 66 MirroCraft . Selling the boat + a little shop work should get me enough for a re-man 351w long block, a new damper plate, new water pump and a transmission kit. With any luck I'll have it assembled, broken in and on the water in a few weeks.

Sure hope it works too because I'm selling my only good boat to fix the broken one.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2015 at 3:39pm
Wow, not how I would have gone with it, but I know sometimes you need to just go skiing. Make sure who ever is remanning that long block is going to be around long enough for the warranty to be worth something.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2015 at 3:40pm
Agree with joe.

RH rollers exist, just not in the wild!
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