(Cracked Block) - Sudden Milky Oil - 351w |
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LeftFieldEngineering
Senior Member Joined: December-20-2010 Location: Monson, MA Status: Offline Points: 384 |
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I'll keep an eye open for the 1 piece block. A guy at work has a 351 already in pieces he's willing let go for under 100 bucks. I also have another friend who's brother rebuilds motors and he said it may even be repairable. I'll have to pull the head and see just what's going on.
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21131 |
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Bummer. Junk yard 351 and a few gaskets and you're in business. I'd look for a 1-piece block and get the RH seal on order. Don't forget the new damper!
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LeftFieldEngineering
Senior Member Joined: December-20-2010 Location: Monson, MA Status: Offline Points: 384 |
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Step one: complete (good thing I didn't throw out my motor stand)
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LeftFieldEngineering
Senior Member Joined: December-20-2010 Location: Monson, MA Status: Offline Points: 384 |
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Actually it was quite foolish of me to think that after rebuilding every other part of the boat the motor would be any different. In reality I'm still quite lucky, (as I mentioned it before) the problem presented it self by puking oil all over the place on my warmup run last week. Had this not happen I would have probably smoked all the internals skiing that day. With oil pressure still at 40-60 psi and running like a champion I have no reason to believe the rest of the motor is bad.
Looks to me like it's pullmotorfindblockrebuildmotorcocktailtime. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Nothing a little JB Weld won't fix! When you pull the head, it will be interesting to see how far it goes. As already mentioned, that sucks!
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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That is too bad
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jimsport93
Platinum Member Joined: February-20-2008 Location: Alpharetta Ga Status: Offline Points: 1749 |
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That sucks! So sorry to hear that.
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LeftFieldEngineering
Senior Member Joined: December-20-2010 Location: Monson, MA Status: Offline Points: 384 |
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Well you guys were right about one thing; pulling the intake did find my problem. Too bad it's a crack in the block. Didn't need the crack checker to find this baby, hell Helen Keller could have found this thing.
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LeftFieldEngineering
Senior Member Joined: December-20-2010 Location: Monson, MA Status: Offline Points: 384 |
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Ya I picked up one similar the other day, it should be here early this week.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Andy,
If you don't have a Magnaflux Spotcheck kit I suggest getting one. |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21131 |
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I agree, pop the intake off before committing to pulling the motor.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Andy,
Since the plugs are dry and you did pressure test the manifolds, I as Gary mentioned, suspect somethings up with the intake manifold. Check the T stat area real good. The area has been reported to be a problem. |
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LeftFieldEngineering
Senior Member Joined: December-20-2010 Location: Monson, MA Status: Offline Points: 384 |
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Yes the plugs are dry + I pressure tested the exhaust manifolds with a block-off plate when I had the risers off I couldn't hear or see any thing.
I'm most likely going to pull the motor and start taking it apart. |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Exhausts or intake would be my guess. Spark plugs dry?
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LeftFieldEngineering
Senior Member Joined: December-20-2010 Location: Monson, MA Status: Offline Points: 384 |
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15 min on the water & my luck ran out. We're back to milky oil.
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LeftFieldEngineering
Senior Member Joined: December-20-2010 Location: Monson, MA Status: Offline Points: 384 |
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Oil cooler? No. Again I'm not that lucky.
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KennyStar
Newbie Joined: September-15-2014 Location: mn Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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does your motor have a cooler on it?
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kenny
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LeftFieldEngineering
Senior Member Joined: December-20-2010 Location: Monson, MA Status: Offline Points: 384 |
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Boy, my problem is eerily familiar to this one no? Sudden 1/2-1qt high milky oil, good compression, hell it's even leaking at the same exhaust manifold riser gasket.
S.O.S. - Part Deux |
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LeftFieldEngineering
Senior Member Joined: December-20-2010 Location: Monson, MA Status: Offline Points: 384 |
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After pulling the starboard exhaust riser I was able to use the bore camera to take a look in the exhaust runners all the way up to the valves. The resolution wasn't good enough to see hairline cracks, but it was neat to see inside without taking much apart.
The riser gasket was pretty beat up, but I didn't see any rust stains or clear evidence of leakage into the exhaust. I have an idea to pressure test the exhaust manifolds in place so I'm machine the adapter and give that a shot this afternoon. If it passes I'll just put it back together and wait for it to come back. |
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LeftFieldEngineering
Senior Member Joined: December-20-2010 Location: Monson, MA Status: Offline Points: 384 |
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Tuesday Afternoon Test:
I backed into the lake, checked the oil and fired it up. She ran fine for 5-10 min on the trailer before I was confident enough to unhook it and take a spin around the lake. I drove around the lake opening the engine cover every 300 yds or so to check the oil and it's still pretty clean. The physical problem I found was the starboard exhaust riser is externally leaking at the gasket. I snugged down the bolts, but it still drips above 2k RPM. It wasn't leaking bad enough to call it quits so I proceeded to make a few more passes ranging from idle to 45mph putting in about a hour of run time. A few times when I checked the oil I would see the very faint white streak in the oil, however this seemed to dissipate later / after the run. I'm also still getting a little bit of water condensing on the under side of the breather. Since I only changed the oil / filter once after the milky oil mess this could be just residual moisture that was stuck in the motor. Having seen the external leak on the exhaust riser I pulled the corresponding spark plugs and they were still clean. My plan this afternoon is to pull the exhaust hoses & go looking around with the bore camera to see if I can't find any internal leaks or rust staining. |
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LeftFieldEngineering
Senior Member Joined: December-20-2010 Location: Monson, MA Status: Offline Points: 384 |
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The first thing I need to do is duplicate the problem. I may not be able to explain the how or why just yet, but until it comes back under normal operating conditions there may not actually be a problem.
Hell, for all I know some disgruntled mastercraft owner could have come by and poured a quart of water in my motor just to give me a heart attack. That being said I'll take a cracked intake, cracked exhaust manifolds, or even cracked heads any day as long as the block is spared. I can assure you a full motor rebuild is not in the budget. As for the hose hookup I can attest to the fact that with the engine off there would be some water coming out the exhaust so it must be getting past the RWP. Even then the path of least resistance should be through the exhaust manifolds & out the tail pipes so the block wouldn't see much if any pressure. Since I ran the boat for 1.5 - 2 hours in the lake a few weeks back & the oil was clean after I'm hard pressed to believe it's lake related. Since that trip I pulled the carb for a rebuild which required me to remove 1 intake manifold bolt (that secured the throttle return spring). I spent the next few days trying to get the boat running right in the driveway. During these on / off cycles the hose was on a majority of the time. The longest hose-on time was Friday when I came inside to update my Carb Running Rich post here on CCF. In my opinion the only shot I have of it being a simple fix lies with the "loose" intake manifold bolt. The bolt had been removed for 24 hours before it was snugged up with a 1/4" drive ratchet. For all I know it started dripping water into the valley as soon as the bolt was removed and had emptied the intake manifold into engine before I reinstalled the carb & bolt. If not then perhaps it was the heating & cooling cycles during Thursday driveway tests that broke the seal, again allowing it to drip overnight into Friday. Now that I'm thinking of it I do recall seeing steam or smoke coming from the valve cover breather on Friday. It's an old motor so I didn't think much of it, but Saturday morning I removed the backfire arrestor to see if the boosters were dripping and noticed liquid in front of the choke horn. I smelled and consequently tasted the liquid, it was water. It must have condensed in the backfire screen overnight. Meaning the water was in there before I got to the lake and probably even before my Friday test. Looking back having the PCV valve disconnected and it puking oil all over was a blessing in disguise. Had I not seen the milky mess on my first pass I would have continued with the plan to take my buddy footin' and would have almost certainty smoked the main bearings in the process. I'm ashamed to say I didn't check the oil before starting the boat. I never had to worry about it with my old 2 stroke outboard. Needless to say checking my oil before each run will be at the top of my priority list. |
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mamigacz
Groupie Joined: June-08-2014 Location: Wisconsin Status: Offline Points: 96 |
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It never occurred to me that this could happen until I looked closer at a picture of the back side of the timing chain cover. If the gasket failed between the water port and timing chain cavity, wouldn't you see the leak dripping down the front of the engine? |
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Mountain Man
Senior Member Joined: May-09-2014 Location: Brevard, NC Status: Offline Points: 124 |
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A Ford based 351W can also leach water into the oil via the front timing cover. Consider all possibilities and systematically test it before deciding what to repair. Good luck!
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21131 |
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A cracked exhaust manifold will leak regardless of the method used to cool the engine. It is caused by water in the manifold leaking (internally) from the water jacket. It doesn't matter if the water came in via hose (bucket, tee or direct) or if the boat is in the lake. The most stringent test is one where you put a good heat load on the manifold (running the engine under load) so as to expand that crack.
If the manifold isn't cracked internally, water will not enter into the cylinders even if the hose is pumping water through the engine without it running. To imply otherwise is confusing the issue. |
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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Well, I remember it wasn't so much a matter of "forcing." It was more a matter of a leak between the exhaust port and the water jacket within the Edit: EXHAUST manifold. Then, if the engine is running, the escaping exhaust blows out any potential water. But, if the engine is not running, water is still going through the cooling system/exhaust manifolds etc. with the garden hose connected in a positive fashion. Water then has the potential to find it's way into a cylinder through an open exhaust valve. Of course, this scenario requires and exhaust manifold that is already compromised. |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21131 |
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I'd like for someone to explain the path that the water would take if they think a garden hose can somehow force water through the RWP and into the cylinders (or oil).
I hope you're in the clear Andy, but I've never been so lucky. Compression test being good is a good sign, but I would bet you'll see it come back after you get a load and some heat cycles on it. Exhaust manifolds are the most vulnerable to an overheat in my experience, I've cracked a few pairs. Freeze damage might point to the intake. The former would result in some evidence of water in the cylinders. The latter would require pulling the intake and inspecting the valley. Hopefully it's one of those and not the block or heads. |
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Waterdog
Grand Poobah Joined: April-27-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2020 |
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My Silver Nautique had a cracked block above the cam bearings and only leaked every now & then. Plugs were clean and ran very well but it filled the block up with water. It did that for 3/4 weeks before I found it... Good luck!
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tryathlete
Platinum Member Joined: April-19-2013 Location: Lake Villa, IL Status: Offline Points: 1797 |
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I'm betting the hose left on with engine off caused your milky oil. I'm also just a little bit curious about a hand tightened manifold or head bolt.
I'm always afraid of the hose filling the engine, so I start engine, turn on hose, turn off hose, turn off engine. Hope that's all it is 😅 |
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2008 MasterCraft 197TT
1996 Nautique Super Sport 1988 Waterlogged Supra Mariah |
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LeftFieldEngineering
Senior Member Joined: December-20-2010 Location: Monson, MA Status: Offline Points: 384 |
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Guess it all comes down to this afternoon: I'm going to pull the plugs one more time and crank it over by hand to see if any of the cyl's have water in them, if not it's off to the lake to see what happens.
I also picked up a 40" USB Bore-scope camera for 20 bucks on Amazon. That way if the water does returns I'll start by pulling the exhaust hoses and go looking for signs in the exhaust manifolds. Wish me luck. |
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LeftFieldEngineering
Senior Member Joined: December-20-2010 Location: Monson, MA Status: Offline Points: 384 |
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Well there's a hell of a concept , that'll be installed ASAP.
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